I have my Ender 3 V2 dialed in really well except for where the print bed area starts. I have a BL Touch installed and it is working fine. I also have the Jyers UI for BL Touch firmware installed. Other than that my printer is stock.
Now to the problem. My printer has always printed the purge line at the left edge of the printer. So far, that has not been a problem because my bed mat overlaps the bed about a quarter of an inch. However, I tried to print something that required almost all of the bed surface and part of the design print cut off at would have been the edge of the bed.
How do I move the start point of printing about 10mm to the right of where it is printing now?
I can not answer that right now because I am printing something and I don’t know how to access the rest of the menu while a print session is running.
Anyone that has an Ender 3 V2 should check out the Jyers UI firmware. It is available for printers with and without BLTouch. You upgrade both the motherboard firmware AND the display firmware and get a much more flexible (expansive) version of the Marlin firmware then that which is installed on the Ender 3 V2.
I will check of the X & Y offset function when my print finishes and let you know.
The purge line is generally positioned in the G-Code you put into your slicer to run before the print. You should be able to move it by adjusting this G-Code. For example here is the purge line G-Code for the stock Cura Ender start code:
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
You can change the position by changing the X and Y positions in the G1 commands.
OK… Got that. Now, how much do I change the G1 X0.1 to move the purge line approx 10mm to the right and do I have to also change the G1 X0.4 entries by the same amount?
Perhaps you are overthinking things a bit. It really is as simple as changing G1 X0.1 to G1 X10.1. That will start the line 10mm further right. Yes, you need to make the 10mm change to the other X entries. So, you would wind up with two lines with G1 X10.1 in them & 2 lines with G1 X10.4 in them.
Oh! One more question. Does changing the G1 codes as described above move the whole print model 10mm to the right or just the purge line? If not, how do I move the model start point to the right?
Since this code is in the Start Gcode, it will only apply to the purge line. That’s why I asked if there is a menu where you can set the X & Y offsets. Usually, there would also be an option for Z offset. Changing those would reset the 0,0 position of the printer itself, not just the purge line.
Well, if you home a printer and move to 0/0 the nozzle should be at the edge of the printer. If not you, then need to adjust the firmware or you always fight to get the corners printable.
Adjusting the slicers start gcode is not a real option in that case. When updating and changing the slicer you will probably have the same problems all over again. Models also won’t be printed in the center which is not a big deal at first, but later on, when on bigger prints your brim or even parts of the build are printed outside the usable print area.
My Anet Homes at -27/-12 or so as it homes outside the print bed, which means when moving to 0/0 I am right at the front left corner of the usable build space.
This not only fixes the 0-Point of the printers origin, it allows also to use the entire space of the build plate. e.g. if your printer is outside the build plate and using this value as 0/0, then you actively need to avoid the initial space BUT if your plate is e.g. set to 220/220, then the limit is reached before the end of the build volume. So in my example, without correction I would loose 27mm as the printer does not move beyond 220 as it thinks there is the end of the bed.
Ether way you would need to tell the firmare the bed is 27mm longer (bad idea), or do it the right way of setting up the X offset (right way).
Thank you Geit. However, I will set aside the problem with my X axis for now… I now have a problem in that my Z axis has stopped working completly. I select “move axis” on the display and set a Z axis change and nothing happens. If this problem has been discussed before, please direct me to that discussion. Otherwise, does anyone have a suggestion on how to correct the problem?
Just to confirm: when you manually turn the Z axis lead screw with the power off, it refuses to turn?
If that is the case, you have a physical printer problem. The Z axis is bound up somehow. It could be misaligned, the V wheels might be misadjusted, the lead screw and/or guide posts might desperately need lubrication, or the axis might be caught up on something.
It’s beginning to sound like photos may be needed.
I don’t believe photos would help… Everything looks OK. I did have a Z axis malfunction the other night when I had a hard crash where to nozzle embedded itself into the magnetic bed cover. However, I turned the printer off and Z axis recovered and I was able to print whatever it was I was trying to print. The current problem seems to have happened while the printer was off. Z axis was working; then turned printer off and now it is not working when I turned the printer on again. I just discovered that the X axis bar (rail) has some movement on the right end. It looks like I have to remove the bar from the frame so that I can tighten the screws that fasten the X rail to the Z assembly. I am going to loosen the lead screw from the stepper motor and remove the very top frame rail and take the whole X assembly off the printer. In the process of doing that, I may find out what is causing the Z axis problem.
