A video came up in my YT feed last night that I watched out of boredom and after watching this guy talk about how to fix the hotend on an Ender 3 v2 for 25 minutes he showed the method he uses to set the z-offset when using an ABL Basically does what we all do printed 30x30x0.2mm squares. What I thought was interesting is that after setting the z-offset manually using a feeler gauge he then printed a 3x3 grid of 30x30mm squares starting with the offset he got with the feeler gauge then at the very end of each square he would move the printer up 0.01mm.
He had a sheet of paper with the 3x3 grid of squares drawn out on it and in each square he put the z-offset for that square. He then picked the square that looked the best and set his z-offset to that and saved it. I’m getting a new build plate for the SV04 this week so I’m going to try this and see how it goes .
Here’s the video if you want to see how he does it. Ender 3 V2 Hot end Fix - YouTube
Well, you beat me to the punch. My next suggestion to everyone was going to be to print 5x30mm squares, 1 in each corner + 1 in the center that we’ve all been already doing. I’ve been doing the corner ones for quite a few months. I find, with the SCREWS_TILT_ADJUST in fluiddpi it isn’t as useful to print the corner ones, but I don’t think they’re useless.
I basically start a big print and watch the brim lines. I turn three of the four wheels until the lines are equal on all sides and done.
The general z-offset is another adjustment wheel, so I never touch any of marlins options.
You have a better eye than me, my friend. Interesting that you have a specific wheel just for Z Offset. It sounds very useful.
It is basically a screw, which can dialed up/down, hitting the z switch earlier/later. This is very handy and I modified/designed all my printers to have it that way.
Are you talking about the Z Axis Limit Switch. If so, both my printers have that.
Basically yes. The dial simply moves the contact point of the z-switch, which effects the z offset. I never change that in marlin menus any more. It takes to much time compared to a simple twist on a wheel.
From my experience with the Artist-D, I would like to see a wheel right on hotends that allows them to be raised and lowered. For example, on IDEX, TRIDEX, and other multi-hotend printers, it would be of enormous help in getting the Z Offset of multiple hotends equal. And, like you said, it would be faster than doing it a slicer. Besides, trying to do it in a slicer wouldn’t work when using duplication or mirror modes wouldn’t work anyway.
The above mentioned video, the guy had an ABL, he was showing setting the z-offset not leveling the bed. I never used z-offset until I put the EZABL on my ED3v2 & the SV04 can with a BlTouch clone.
The right extruder on my SV04 has a know on the top of the extruded to raise and lower it to get it the same level as the left. You can adjust it on the fly too. I have never been any good at adjusting the bed screws live I always seem to make matters worse. I do adjust the z-offset live when need be but that’s only when trying to get it dialed in.
I like the idea of he adjustment screw on the Z limit switch, that would be so much easer that losing 2 screws and moving it a tad and hope it’s on the right place. repeating until it is.
I wish I had an adjustment knob on my Artist-D’s right extruder.
I’m not quite sure why you would want an adjustment screw on the Z limit switch. With Klipper, it’s pretty much redundant.
That’s what I mean: the mechanism for adjusting the height of the right extruder is completely inadequate. It’s a kludge at best. If JG Maker would only correct the extruder and the Z Offset issues they would have a real winner, and I think a big seller.
On my Ender 3 v2 I don’t even have a Z limit switch per say, my EZABL is my limit switch, in fact it replaces the z limit switch. The SV04 has 2 set screws you are suppose to tighten after you set the z-offset to match the left extruder but I leave mine loose in case I need/want to adjust it on the fly.
It’s normal that a probe replaces a Z limit switch. The BL Touch on my Ender 5 replaces its Z switch.