Removable build plate question

I want to print my model with no back so I can epoxy the model as is.
Is there a build plate that I could use that would allow me do do the following.

  • fill the model on the plate with epoxy
  • remove the model after the epoxy has set.
  • reused the plate.

I haven’t used a glass build plate. I wonder if the epoxy would adhere to the glass.

Not that I have experience with it, but there is stuff you can spray on to avoid sticking, when creating a mold (mold release).

After printing you could spray the inside of the model with mold release and then fill the sign with resin or whatever. Just avoid spraying the walls to much or the letters may fall out. Depending on the elephant foot the letters should be able to escape to the back side, so you should be able to brush some of the material on, after build plate removal, if needed.

This would be my approach. As a build plate I would use glass, but avoid the “quality” borosilcate glass here. Clip on a cheap picture frame from the dollar store and use some UHU-Stic for maximum bed adhesion of the small parts. I printed for years on those cheap glass surfaces and did not break a single one, but handle with care. (even so I swapped for safety reasons when I found a bed size borosilicate one).

Just be careful not to break the glass due to rapid cooling or hitting an obstacle while it is hot. Using a cheap glass will allow you to test it with/without mold release and also without breaking important printer parts.

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Many people print on “painter’s tape,” which works well.

You might be able to cover your print bed with painter’s tape, carefully overlaps it a bit so nothing can get through to the print surface, then print your model, fill it with epoxy, and after it dries, remove the tape.

I found some 12" wide painter’s tape on Amazon that might be perfect for this use.

The above is a MakeWithTech affiliate link. You can also just search for " Wide Blue Painters Tape" if you prefer.

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Getting close
Changing to glass and using the tape for a few test prints has been a process, but I’m getting there.

I’ve stepped back in time though. Getting stringing and have raised my bed temp to 70*C to get my PLA to adhere to the tape.

Still a work-in-progress. I may try the cheap glass once the old problems are solved.
Thanks for the help.

A couple of things that have helped me.

  1. The blue masking tape is available in 12" wide rolls on Amazon. This makes it much easier to apply.

  2. I use either Elmer’s glue or magiGoo on top of the masking tape.

In general, I prefer to print on PEI surfaces like LayerLock from Matterhackers for all materials except Nylon. For PEI I use magiGoo on top of the PEI as a release agent so the PEI does not stick too well and damage the print surface.

Thank you.
The tape is holding up well.
My print quality (i.e. stringing, poor print quality). The glue did not seem to help me. So dropped back to simple raft. My 1st print today w/o the raft still has stringing, but my raft print is looking good.
I did drop my z offset .2 millimeters. On the second print.
The general quality of the two is the same with exceptions above.

When you are following all of the recommendations for the elimination of string and you are still having difficulty, consider drying out the filament. I have found over the years that damp filament exacerbates many 3D printing issues.

You can do this in a food dehydrator, a filament dryer, or even an oven if it goes low enough.

Start by drying your filament at 50c (122f) for about 4 hours and see if it makes a difference. DO NOT DRY PLA at a higher temperature, as you risk ending up with damaged filament.