I foldable plastic cutter is my favorite tool to removing prints from glass build plate. When folded, it stores safely in drawer. Prints easily remove when sharp flat part of blade is carefully inserted under corner of print. Prints are always removed after cooling. Exercise safety when using sharp tools! Do not stress build plate.
I use a scraper & razor when in a hurry to start another print. But if I can wait I do and I use Magigoo. I purchased two bottles and still have only used half a bottle, maybe.
Funny, I just started to not use any adhesive on my PEI coated flex plates. So far, so good, on both the smooth and textured sides. We’ll see how it goes.
I print ABS on ABSGlue on glass, PLA on glass and TPU on glue stick on glass.
Usually it takes just a little cooling to pop prints of. ABS sometimes is hard, but I usually can get my fingernails under the brim. Once it is loose I just pull on the brim edge and the part is off.
In general the prints bottom looks better when the print gets cool a little. Especially PLA bends and rips into peaces when you pull on it to soon, while once cooled you can just blow them off the plate.
TPU on gluestick is easy. Just pulling and the glue releases it.
If you have a removable print bed, popping it in the freezer for 10 minutes will cause the most stubborn prints to release. For fixed print beds like my FLSUN Super Racer, I just put a desk fan blowing on the print for about 5-10 minutes and my prints come free without effort. The key is to get the print surface down to about 19c or less.
