I just completed and posted a new video on the DrVax youtube channel discussing how I optimized a Cura profile to minimize stringing for my highly modified Ender 5. You can find the video here:
In addition I have uploaded here the Cura 4.6 profile I created for this video. Since this forum limits the types of files supported in uploads, I changed the file extension to zip. You will need to change the extension back to .curaprofile before importing it into Cura.
Finally I think you may want to change the flow rate back to 100 from 95 and slow the prints down to 70 from 70 as my most recent prints have been slightly under extruded. Let me know how this works out if you try the profile.
Thank you your profile Ender 5 in Cura.
I use Ender 3 Pro, change main board SKR mini E3 v1.2, and setup Direct Drive.
Can you tuning Profile for PrusaSlicer 2.2
I want remove stringing for PrusaSlicer. I very like your channel youtube
hi there Dr. Vax
i have an ender 5 with fullmetal hot end, and a skr 1,4 turbo card, i would likr to try your profile, but i cant figure out the path in cura where to put your files.
i have a great problem with strinning and nozzel clogging when i print with 3D premium silky collors, that is why i would like to try out your new profile, but the path for ura, i have no clue, can you try to explaine a bit better on what to do with the files thank you
To load the Cura profile you must be using a current version of Cura. The profile was created for Cura 4.6.1 and will probably not load on versions before 4.3 or maybe 4.4 or latter.
Go into machine settings in Cura, select profiles, and do an import.
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I am going to continue testing, based on input from the community. Here is a print using my profile but with retraction increased to 3.5, speed reduced to 70, flow at 100, Travel Acceleration set to 2,000, and outer walls before inner walls. It is clearly not as good. I am going to rerun with all the same settings except for the outer walls before inner walls off to see if this has any impact.
Monoprice Ultimate 2 Print Sample. This is a close up of the top of the Kickstarter Calibration model that I used to tune the Micro Swiss All Metal hot end in my modified Ender 5. This is the best print I have produced from this model. I believe it is a combination of the direct drive extruder and an excellent hot end. The Monoprice Cadet which is a very low-end printer also does a relatively good job and it is made by the same Chinese manufacturer for Monoprice as the Ultimate 2. Since the Cadet does is a Bowden tube setup it must be the hot end. Both of these printers have traditional hot ends with PFTE tubing running into the hot end.
I have some model prints on my Ender 5 before I switched the hot end and while they are better than the current configuration, prior to tuning the profile, they were not as good as the Weedo rebranded Monoprice printers.
That looks good, alot better than mine, i have a huge problem with clogging of nozzel right now, i dont understand it, now im at 260 degreeds, as soon i print with black it prints fine, but with those silky collors the nozzel block’s, but i will keep on fighting with the machine
DrVax Profile with 3.5, speed reduced to 70, flow at 100, Travel Acceleration set to 2,000, and outer wall before inner wall OFF. This is the only change from the prior print and it makes a difference. Prints are noticeably cleaner with outwall before inner wall OFF.
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i dont understand this, every time i use retraction, my nozzel clogs up, and extruder just skip steps, if i dont use retraction it prints fine but with alot of strinning, there is spider web all over the place, it seems like the hot end is way too cold in the throat
im using 3 de premium pla fila ment, and im printing between 190 to 230 degreeds and im using cura slicer 4,6,1
and it all is on a Ender 5 with an SKR 1,4 board on and TCM 2208 drivers
there is some sticky substance with it, i wase wondering what that is for, to morrow i will try to take it all apart and clean it firmly and use some of that sticky stuf
sa i can read out of your message i can understand that the retraction works with vacum, is that right ??
Hey Irv, Today I installed the all metal hotend on an ender 3 and I set retraction to a distance of 5mm with a speed of 30. I had a beautiful result when the stringing test was completed… when I went on to perform my next test print I couldn’t ven get filament to budge through the nozzle and the entire hot end was jammed. I just looked at your profile for the 5 and I was wondering if the retraction settings would work well on my ender 3. Were my initial retraction settings to far? Get back to me when you can, thank you!
-Nate
You’re a lifesaver Irv. I installed an all metal hotend in my Ender 5 Plus and couldn’t get rid of the stringing. I loaded up your profile and bam; almost zero stringing. Thanks man.
Irv: All of your videos and posts are just wonderful. I’ve learned so much from you and know that I have a lot more to go (and I know you’re not my personal printing support person). Thank you for all you do. D-
The screw head inside the spring is no help for sure. No clue why it is there and why it is so big, but the pure screws as seen in my picture are more than enough to prevent it from popping out. The spring usually does not need any adjustment or guidance.
Also even when the spring need to act harder I would put a washer below or on top of the spring.
