Hi everybody I am totally new to 3-D printing and I run into innisia I’m gonna need help . It’s a long story but bear with me. I recently purchased ender 5 pro. The 1st thing I did I install microswiss hotend and tl smoothers. Then I did my 1st friend and to my surprise came up awesome. So I started printing some small boxes with drawers for my wife and then I encountered my 1st warping. All of that was with original white filment that came with printer . Next thing was glass bad that I purchased from ender. I also got new PLA from Sunlu . The warping was getting worse and worse. Those 1st pictures will show you that I also had some stringing . So I thought my next upgrade will be bigtree v2 and board , tft35 v3.0 and ezabl. I was about to ask you guys for help with software installation for all of that but big problem occur . I was doing another print . For this one I used a glue that was recommended on 1 of the videos and everything was going great. Saul after their loan I went to work for couple of hours I figure when I come back home it will be done. To my surprise I saw exploded hotend. I am not sure what happened everything was tied up very well. Any idea what happened . I also end up removing all that plastic and my big brain told me to do it Without bringing it to the temperature . And you’ll see the results on the picture . My question is also do I need to replace [B]Cartridge Heater and thermistor. Nad does parts from ender 3 will work with 5 pro ???.
Need some help with all of you guys who knows the stuff definitely better than I do Please help help help help help[/B]
Wow, looks like there was a gap between the heater block and the heatbreak. The MicroSwiss hotend should be salvageable (looks like the thermistor needs to be reinserted). To remove the plastic, you can use a heat gun. I’d also heat and remove the nozzle to ensure there is no clog there. Be sure to check the continuity too.
The warping could be caused by several things–such as wrong bed temperature, bed not level, incorrect z-offset (although that looks ok from the picture), first layer settings (thickness, speed, cooling–print slow and hot). The default Cura profile should work well though.
Hopefully, someone with an Ender 5 pro can weigh in with some printer specific tips.
P.S. – Welcome to the wonderful world of 3D printing – a bit of art, a bit of engineering, and a bit of science! I won’t tell you how many times I clogged the nozzle of my first printer … not enough elections! ?
Thought I had posted this last night, but somehow it didn’t show up.
OK, 1st thing: you are making way too many changes at a time. You need to slow down. Only change 1 thing at a time and test. Also, research your changes before you do them (e.g. see point 3).
2nd: The filament escaping from the hotend is most likely because the nozzle was not tightened properly into the heater block. There is a procedure that has been described in this forum a number of times. It involves installing the nozzle, tightening it up, then backing it off 1 turn. Then, the Bowden tube is installed & pushed all the way down. Next, heat the hotend up to 220C to 230C. Push the Bowden tube down again, to make sure it’s bottomed out. Then, tighten up the nozzle: firmly, but not ridiculously tight.
3rd: you don’t need the smoothers. Assuming this is a new Ender 5 Pro it will have the Creality 4.2.7 board – no smoothers needed. Even the previous 1.1.5 board didn’t need smoothers.
4th: warping can be an issue, but not usually with PLA. What bed temperature are you using? Often, increasing the bed temp by 5C to 10C can correct warping. Also, slowing down the 1st layer can help.
5th: a number of parts from an Ender 3 will work on an Ender 5. It uses the same hotend & extruder. However, you installed a MicroSwiss, so you need to get a thermistor & heater for that (which might well be the same as the original ones).
Now I see my mistake why exploded I didn’t hit up to 220 to 230ﾟand then tighten it up .
Now about working I didn’t change anything it’s a basic set up for ender 2 bed at 50 and nozzle 200. But I also tried with a higher temperatures 60 and up to 210. Didn’t touch speed .
And it has old board. The new board , display and ezabl are not installed. I just bought them . All that later . Now I am waiting for you to thermistor and cartridge heater.
If it’s an Ender 5 why are you setting it up as an Ender 2 or 3?
You should find out what board it actually has. Was this a new Ender 5 Pro or an old 1? You need to open the bottom panel (be careful not to let the wires to the case fan get stressed). Then, look at the circuit board & see what version # is silk-screened on it. If it’s 1.1.5 or higher, then it’s not an old board (well, at least not more than a year old at least).
My Ender 5 Pro came with a 1.1.5 board, which I upgraded to a 4.2.7 recently.
Yes that’s the one that I have 1.1.5
When I talk about setting it up as a ender 3 in cura was no ender 5 option .
And I know maybe its a wrong approach I wanted to upgrade it from the very beginning just to be done with it .
And also it would help me out with levelling the bed because I don’t feel very comfortable with that I was trying to create more as the automated feature so I don’t have to play around with it . But that’s later 1st I have to get all of those wires I order
Like I said, the 1.1.5 is not really an old board; it doesn’t need smoothers. It’s biggest negative is that it’s an 8-bit board, which means that it has limited storage space from firmware. With the recent & forthcoming changes to Marlin, it won’t have enough space to hold it. Already, features have to be omitted from Marlin 2.x in order for it to fit. That’s why I upgraded to the 32-bit 4.2.7 board. Another negative is that the firmware can’t be upgraded by loading a BIN file onto an SD card and turning the printer on.
Regarding bed levelling, you should follow the video by DrVAX, and the 1 by Hobby Hoarder (Best method for 3D printer bed levelling - YouTube) to the bed level. Automatic Bed Leveling can be useful, but the bed needs to be leveled manually before ABL can then be put to use. As I understand it, ABL is to compensate for small deviations in the flatness of a printbed.
As far as setting up Cura is concerned, you should use the manual option to set the print dimensions (220x220x300).
Final note: your post was a little difficult to follow. There are a lot of misspellings & words that don’t seem to make sense.
I apologise for misspelling but English is not my 1st language . I would like to ask you for help with setting up this to new boards and ezabl . I am talking about the software this is where I don’t have the knowledge . The only software that I downloaded is cura . What else do I need ? Is there a link that you can share with very specific directions that I can follow step-by-step in regards to software. Thanks. And again sorry for misspelling
Yes I bought it directly from them. But I would like to install the board’s 1st before I start messing with it . Can I do that. And do you know if I can use bigtreetech software installed on main board and then follow their instructions on ezabl.
Yes that’s the one. I also contacted them about the software and the differences between bigtreetech and their. And unfortunately they were unable to tell me what what is the difference . So I am assuming I cannot use ezabl with bigtreetech software. It has to be TH3D . Correct???
To me, a pre-made printer profile is just a starting point. Every printer is slightly different. From my perspective, the 1st thing that needs to be done with any new consumer level 3D printer is to calibrate it: bed leveling, calibration of the X, Y, Z, & extruder stepper motors, PID tuning, Flow Rate, Z Offset, etc. After that, I would move on to calibration of specific filaments, creating a profile for each 1.
It’s all over YouTube. Check out Teaching Tech, CHEP, Hobby Boarder, & many, many others. And, of course, be sure to go through the DrVAX videos. I recommend the DrVAX videos as a great place to start, because Irv explains things more simply than many others.