Its been a week now when I started to fight with ender 5 PRO settings in Cura and Creality Slicers to prevent it from stringing.
Ender 5 Pro
eSUN PLA+ Black
60 - bed temp
225 - filament temp
70 - first layer bed temp
0,2mm -layer height
0,2mm - initial layer height
Optimize wall print order - ON
Infill Density - 10%
Print speed - 100
Travel speed - 250
Wall speed - 50
Retraction - 4mm
Retraction speed - 40mm/2
Combining - not in skin
Avoid printed parts when traveling - ON
Avoid support when traveling - ON
Wall ordering - Outside to Inside
Z Seam - Sharpest corner
I have tried to change the settings many, many times with better or worse results but still cannot figurate why some things are happening to the print.
I also printed about 20 calibration models, including temperature towers, stringing pyramids, stringing silos, etc.
I’ve probably changed so many settings that I’m starting to lose track of what does what.
I am sharing my latest photo of stringing test, my current CURA profile and asking you - masters of printing for help, because next I will need to print new hair cause im starting to loose mine…
CURA Profile: Cura Profile
Thank you in advance guys!
I don’t have Ender 5 , but it looks like temperature is too high. I would reduce temperature to 205C or 210C. Try that.
There also appears signs of over extruding, but lowering temperature may help with that. One change at a time, helps in learning process.
I see 2 items: the cobweb kind of stringing might be caused by wet filament, or printing too hot. Do you have a dryer? I get the side-branches with certain silk PLA filaments sometimes, not yet with a simple PLA. As for Ender specifics, I hope other people can chime in.
I made about 10 temperature towers with sccripts to check which temp will be the best, and as far as I noticed 225C had best results.
I dont have dryer unfortunatelly, is it possible that all this is caused by wet filament?
will take a look at over extruding, thanks @KitCarlson
I think this one is the best result so far:
Settings to achieve this on Cura with Ender 5 Pro with 0,4 nozzle using eSUN Black PLA+ 3D:
Layer height: 0,16
Initial layer height: 0,14
Initial layer line width:110%
Wall ordering: Outside to Inside
Optimize Wall printing order: TRUE
Z Seam Alignment: User Specified
Z Seam Position: Back
Seam Corner Pref: Smart Hiding
Infill Density: 20%
Infill Pattern: Cubic
Printing Temp: 210C
Build Plate temp: 60C
Initial Layer Flow: 150
Print Speed: 80
Wall Speed: 40
Travel Speed: 200
Initial Layer Speed: 22
Retraction Speed: 40
Combining Mode: Not in Skin
Retract Before Outer Wall: TRUE
Avoid Printed and Support Parts: Both TRUE
Hope this will help someone in the future.
Profile with this settings attached below:
eSun 3D Black by Furial.curaprofile (917 Bytes)
Still need to work on the bridging, but will update this topic once I will find solution.
Any comments, tips or advices highly recommended~!
It is possible to use heated bed at about 35 to 40C with filament spool covered by vented cardboard box. It takes hours to dry. There are a few youtube videos about this.
Will definatelly try this, thanks mate.
Btw - yesterdays setup is shit, take a look at this photo of night print… totally wasted the filament.
Any tips and advices - please!
Filament wetness causing stringing also depends on your climate. Some filament does not even arrive well dried in the package. Where I live, a dryer is a must. If I would not have a dryer, all prints would look like a spider made them. I also store my filament in closed containers with a few bags of silica gel.
Makes sense. Btw. This night print is really weird. Overextruding but also gaps in the walls. Dont know what is happening…
Our gracious founder made a great vid recently which will help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMHwVx4OIVc
Im drying filament, will update once I will finish
@Pigjes, @KitCarlson just to let you know that I have changed the settings, also my e-steps were wrong, changed it from 96 to 123mm/s.
After changing the settings, changing the nozzle and drying the filament the effect is like this:
Profile which i used:
eSun 3D Black by Furial.curaprofile (1.1 KB)
Thank you for help guys, much appreciated!
You can make a filament drier out of a food dehydrator, that’a what I did and can dry several spools at one time.
For sure, this time i just dryed it in oven using stable 56C for 3h, but I will try to make DYI dryer for this purpose.
Update: above settings are shit. It was retracting the filament too much, and after half hour of printing filament was grinded and cracked in extruder.
Anyone knows what is this ? The hell is happening…
So what you can see on the above screen is called Filament Grinding.
The drive gear in extruder has sharp teeth that allow it to bite into the filament and push it forward or backward, depending on which direction the drive gear spins. If the filament is unable to move, yet the drive gear keeps spinning, it can grind away enough plastic from the filament so that there is nothing left for the gear teeth to grab on to.
Finally I went through this site again:
Made again retraction tower and temp tower and changed my settings afterwards.
This is how the towers looked like:
The weird thing is that the best result I had at 230C when for eSun Black 3d PLA+ manufacturer recomment 205-225C. Not sure why it is like that, maybe if I will print slower (now it was at 60) then I would have better results on lower temps.
I will push a project to print and update this topic tomorrow.
Update. What happend at night is that Filament gets cracked on the extruder due to gridning too much prob, or maybe it was unable to take the filament from spool?).
Anyways I changed retraction speed to 30mm/s and retraction minimum travel to 3mm.
Im a bit lost in those settings atm. From towers it looks like the temp, retraction and everything is working fine, but then, when I push some complicated project to print - it cracs my filament at extruder.
What brand filament are you using? For me brittle filament usually means It’s wet but you said you dried it. It is possible that you have a bad roll of filament.
It sounds to me like the hotend is partially clogged and the extruder doesn’t have enough force to push the filament through. That’s why the higher temperature helps (less viscous resistance). I don’t know if the PRO hotend has a PTFE liner or heatbreak, but that’s the first place I’d look.
EDIT: I found an ALL3DP article, “The 30 Best Creality Ender 5 (Pro) Upgrades & Mods,” that states:
“The Ender 5 stock extruder is known to be prone to clogging, especially in the gap between the heat break and heatsink. This issue will ultimately cause under-extrusion and nullify retract moves.”
Damn, thanks mate, will take a look into it.
@Gramps thanks for reply, its eSun PLA+ 3d Black
I made temp tower again - 230-200 and all of them looks like trash xDDD
I have used same eSun + filament without issues at 210C. When cold in shop 215C. I do have direct drive extruders. My retaction is 0.8 mm at 40mm/s for Odin5, and 0.45 and 4.5mm/s using Biqu H2 V2. Zero stringing issues.
I also think you have a heatbreak clog. This can happen if running hot, and turning machine off. Fan needs to run long enough to keep heatbreak cool.
I checked headbreak and it was not clogged. Also machine is on from at least 10 days so I would say its quite impossible.
I ordered new nozzle and capricorn nipple, will update once they will arrive.
Now, after another day of testing the result looks like this:
So - quite nice I would say
UPDATE: Nevermind, it grinded the filament and cut it on extruder after ~1h of print.
This is how it looks like:
UPDATE2: maybe its not because of the settings it self, but because of the model. Dunno, but this is not normal that he is filling it like this:
Going from place to place 100 times per minute…
Changed max retraction count to 15, will see…
UPDATE 3: Of course changing the retraction count makes no sense in this example.
I dont know what to do, will just leave this .stl model for a while and try to print anything else.