I didn’t like the PTFE tube in my Ender 3 v2 so I replaced it with an all metal one from Slice Engineering. I’ll bet if you take your hotend apart you will find that the PTFE tube is discolored. PTFE tubing doesn’t last long in the heat. Capricorn tubing is better, all metal hotend even better.
You always want to let the hotend get below 50C before turning off the machine save a lot of headaches and problems.
I got capricorn atm, will check it one more time
UPDATE:
Sooooo, after all this time I think I finally fixed everything and found golden solution.
I dried the filament one more time, replaced bowden capricorn tube, nozzle, calibrated 3-steps, positioned the heating bed, changed the settings, slowed the print speed and it is now printing 9.9/10.
Settings:
Layer height: 0,2
Line width: 0,4
2 Walls with 0,8 thickness
Wall order: Out to Inside
Z seam: Shortest with smart hiding
Infill: 10%
Infill Pattern: Grid
Random infill start: false
Temp: 210C
Plate: 60C
Flow: 100
Speed: 40mm/s
Outer: 25mm/s
Inner: 40mm/s
Travel: 220mm/s
Retraction: 4,5
Retraction speed: 30
Minimum travel: 3mm
Extrusion distance window: 3
Combining: within infill
Retract before outer: true
Cura profile:
eSun 3D Black by Furial.curaprofile (1.4 KB)
Pictures:
I would like to thank all of you for help and wish you really good and fast prints guys!
Good news! Slowing print speed down is the ‘chicken soup’ cure for many printer ailments. I would consider an all-metal hotend in the long run. I had a printer with a PTFE hotend that would work great for a while and then clogs would appear, mostly from degradation of the tube. Eventually, I replaced the hotend with an all-metal E3Dv6 clone and have not experienced clogs since then.
Also, in the second picture, is that a one-layer tall skirt? If so, I’d adjust the z-offset to get a little more squish.
Cheers
Hey, thanks for the input.
“all-metal hotend” - isnt ender 5 PRO including all-metal hotend already? It looks like it is actually, let me know if im wrong. Btw. just ordered bimetal hearthbreak 
“Also, in the second picture, is that a one-layer tall skirt? If so, I’d adjust the z-offset to get a little more squish.” - yes, just for testing purposes. What do you mean by adjusting the z-offset, please explain it shortly as im newbie, dont want to missunderstood.
Thanks!
BTW - setup is perfect, prints are looking fabolous, but im still struggling with nozzle jumping from one place to another during the print and therefore extruder grinding the filament in the same place again and again.
Look at this:
During this one “pseudo line” of print extruder is doing retraction like 20 times grinding the filament totally.
If ANYONE know how to prevent it - I would be so thankfull 
I do not have a Creality machine, but from what I’ve seen on the Internet the 5 PRO is not all-metal. On Reddit, one poster states that it is the standard Creality hotend and links to this page. The product description lists the following feature:
“Tip of the nozzle, aluminum heating block, Throat pipe (built-in Teflon).”
The presence of a Teflon “throat pipe” is consistent with its max temperature of 260C, and led me to believe the hotend is not all-metal. The standard all-metal E3D V6 is capable of printing up to 300°C, for example.
Z-offset is the distance between the hotend tip and the Z home position on a 3D printer. Ideally, this value should match the distance between the hot end and the print bed. However, differences in limit switch position, homing probes, and manual bed leveling result in the need for non-zero z-offset values to compensate. Z-offset adjustment one of the tools we have to achieve a good (perfect?) first layer of a print. I highly recommend Teaching Tech’s website on printer calibration in general, and in particular the tab on First Layer, where there is further discussion of z-offset and how to set it. Our host also has a number of good videos on achieving a good first layer.
Regarding the issue of the “nozzle jumping from one place to another” the problem could occur for a number of reasons. It could be the model itself (can you post a link to it?) or slicer settings (what are the settings for “Retraction Minimum Travel” and “Maximum Retraction Count,” for example, in Cura?). Posting the Gcode might also help diagnose the issue as well.
Cheers
Thanks for really nice answer.
I have made much changes on the printer now.
Got new bowden tube, new nozzle, sastana cooling kit, changed the extruder spring and way it is being hold, the extruder gear, new heat block, heatblock fan, heatbreak and got enclosure, got crtouch, pei bed, bed supports, z axis lead screw bearing support, new motherboard v4.2.7, new soft and after all this changed the config at all.
Now the results are quite close to perfect :).
Good news! It’s great when the darn things actually work.
Cheers
