Yeah. 1 of the issues with WinDiskImager32 is it can’t handle cards of different sizes. It also can’t do compressed backups, which would save a lot of time.
I have to give Acronis a try. Don’t know if it can handle SD cards, but we’ll see.
With the files from @woodwaker_dave and some probing around to find my pin assignment I got the probe to work. It wouldn’t center to the center of the bed unit I added
Set Home to the center of the bed
[safe_z_home]
home_xy_position: 162, 120 # Change coordinates to the center of your print bed
speed: 50
z_hop: 10 # Move up 10mm
z_hop_speed: 5
into the printer.cfg
As many times as I edited the printer.cfg to get ti home in the center of the bed I would still be compiling Marlin and flashing firmware instead of editing a file and restarting Klipper. I downloaded some Star_print macros from Github but am getting error when trying to use them. Maybe something in Klipper has changed since they were written. When I was reading this thread earlier I think I saw where Dave had attached his macros, I’m gonna check them out.
You guys know way more about Klipper than I do but it looks like to me you could copy all the config files (maybe 6) off to a PC and you would have a backup. True you would have to reimagine the SD card but that’s pretty easy and quick using the Raspberry Pi Imager. Once you get Klipper setup how often to those files change. Personally I don’t store my gcode files in my Pi. I upload them print them them when the list get to long I just delete them off the Pi. I still have them on the laptop and I don’t slice and send them directly to the Pi.
UGH! I’ve spent all afternoon trying to get a bed mesh. I finally got G28 home home at the center of the bed. But for the life of me I can’t get a bed mesh. I did get it to it once by leaving out the XY offsets for the probe. I even went through the calibration procedure for the probe and used those values which weren’t that far off from mine.
# Define a probe for EZABL
[probe]
pin: !PA7
z_offset: 1
x_offset: -45.5 # left of nozzle
y_offset: -12.5 # front nozzle
# Example bed_mesh config section
[bed_mesh]
mesh_min: 20, 20
mesh_max: 235,235
probe_count: 3,3
These are the errors I get when doing BED_MESH_CALIBRATE following a G28
5:32:22
Move out of range: 280.500 32.500 5.000 [0.000]
15:32:22
probe at 173.000,32.500 is z=1.000000
15:32:18
probe at 65.500,32.500 is z=0.950000
The only thing I haven’t tried is a G29 macro
Try issuing a G90 before doing the bed mesh. The printer may be trying to use relative positioning instead absolute.
This is a learning experience. I forget what printer you have, but the bed mesh min and max take into consideration the probe offsets. This gets confusing with the negative values.
I think this is where you ave the problem, the move out of range at 280.5 X is the result of 235 max and a – 45.5 offset, which I will guess is past the edge of your bed.
The beauty of Klipper is in this kind of experimenting. Try setting your bed mesh:
mesh_min: 50,50
mesh_max: 100,100
probe_count: 3,3
See if this works. These will have to be adjusted later, but this is just to test that it will work.
Tried the G90 and the G29 macro same results. I’ll give that a try and see what happens.
Started at 50,50 100,100 and it worked small pattern but it worked. Ended up at 20,20 & 188,188 Klipper does math is strange ways in my opinion. You would think that it would subtract the offset from the min/max not add the offset to it. Changed it to 4x4 grid and it still worked. Yippie!
Ah, now I recall having that issue as well. I, too, finally found the right settings by experimenting. Those probe offsets can be real killers.
Glad it worked. Took me quite a while to figure out what was wrong when I first tried to get it set up. That’s why I suggested a small grid - which let you get it working. With the ease of editing you can keep making small adjustments until you are happy. I have mine running at a 5 x 5 grid on my Enders and a 7x7 on my Rat Rig.
I had the same problem. That’s when the ability to change a value in Klipper and test in less than a minute became so apparent and great
Soon as I used your suggestion and it ran I then saw the small pattern it was probing so then went back to the 20,20 then subtracted the offset from the max & got an error by .5 dropped it 2,5 and it was good to go. I might kick mine up to 5x5 too won’t add that much time my EZABL is fast anyway. Tried doing a print but it didn’t stick worth a darn. Still trying to get Ideamaker to play nice with Klipper. Don’t know what is causing it yet but Ideamaker will not send the START_PRINT or END_PRINT macros so I had to tweak my normal start gcode to get it to work, including changing one of my purge line settings.
After getting the bed mesh to work I was able to get the display to work again, I have an Ender 3 Pro display of my v2. Getting the display to work wa one of the easiest things I’ve done. I put the screen stuff in a separate cfg file to keep the printer.cfg from getting to big. Now I want to figure out this menu thing so I can add baby steps to the menu. That will make it much easier to adjust the Z-offset it needed.
[ATTACH=JSON]{“data-align”:“center”,“data-size”:“custom”,“height”:“450”,“title”:“IMG_3181 2.jpg”,“width”:“600”,“data-attachmentid”:14064}[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=JSON]{“data-align”:“center”,“data-size”:“custom”,“height”:“600”,“title”:“IMG_3182 2.jpg”,“width”:“450”,“data-attachmentid”:14065}[/ATTACH]
[IMG2=JSON]{“data-align”:“none”,“data-size”:“full”,“src”:“https://forum.makewithtech.com/core/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAPABAP///wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==”}[/IMG2]
You don’t like the Z Offset setting in the MailSail Dashboard?
Can’t say that I tried them but the laptop is across the room so it would be easier from the menu on the printer. Guess I could use an old 8" tablet for Mainsail that might even be a better option. Something to do tomorrow. Does Mainsail have an App?
Doesn’t really need 1. It is its own web server, so you just use a browser to connect to the Pi.
CALIBRATE Z OFFSET WITH KLIPPER
Before starting with Z Offset calibration, please make sure the bed is level following the steps in the next post
To calibrate the Z offset with Klipper and ABL Probe, first start by homing all axis: [INDENT]
G28 #home all axis
[/INDENT]
Next send a probe calibrate command to tell the printer we want to calibrate the Z axis: [INDENT]
PROBE_CALIBRATE
[/INDENT]
Once this command is entered the printer will attempt to discover the Z offset and report back what it thinks it should be: [INDENT]
Z position: ?????? –> 6.025 <– ??????
[/INDENT]
Start the manual calibration steps. Grab a piece of paper and slide it between the nozzle and print bed and start lowering the nozzle until you feel a slight resistance when moving the paper back and forth. To lower the nozzle enter the below command. Adjust the value and repeat until you feel a slight resistance: [INDENT]
TESTZ Z=-.1
[/INDENT]
Once you feel a slight resistance, type accept to save your values: [INDENT]
ACCEPT
bltouch: z_offset: 1.099
The SAVE_CONFIG command will update the printer config file
with the above and restart the printer.
[/INDENT]
Now type SAVE_CONFIG and restart the printer to load the new config.
Verify the accuracy of the new settings. [INDENT]
G28 #home all axis
PROBE_ACCURACY
[/INDENT]
The printer will now run a series of tests to verify the repeatability of the probe results. [INDENT]
probe accuracy results: maximum 1.104000, minimum 1.091500, range 0.012500, average 1.099500, median 1.100250, standard deviation 0.004717
[/INDENT]
Looking for a range of 0.0125 or better, but not worse than 0.025. The Z Height is now calibrated. For additional reading reference the Klipper docs
Yep, that’s the procedure I used. After doing that I printed my usual 20x20, 1-layer squares to ensure I get a Z Offset that’s as close to perfect as possible.
Klipper bed leveling with SCREWS TILT ADJUST and BLTouch or Inductive Probe such as EZABL
Leveling your print bed is easy using Klipper and a probe such as the BLTouch or EZABL. First verify the locations of the bed leveling screws are defined in your printer.cfg [INDENT]
[screws_tilt_adjust] # these are an example yours maybe different
horizontal_move_z: 5
screw1: 70,213
screw1_name: back left
screw2: 235,213
screw2_name: back right
screw3: 70,47
screw3_name: front left
screw4: 235,47
screw4_name: front right
[/INDENT]
If this has just been added issue a restart so Klipper loads the new config. Once Klipper is back online, we want to send a few commands to the terminal: [INDENT]
#Home All Axis
G28
#Adjust Bed Level
SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE
[/INDENT]
The probe will now go the locations defined in the printer.cfgfile and probe for the distance to the bed.
In the terminal you will see the probe results and they will be followed up with something similar to the output below: [INDENT]
// front right : X 235.0, Y 47.0, Z 1.60750 : Adjust -> CW 00:02
// front left : X 70.0, Y 47.0, Z 1.65250 : Adjust -> CCW 00:04
// back right : X 235.0, Y 213.0, Z 1.58625 : Adjust -> CW 00:04
]// back left (Base): X 70.0, Y 213.0, Z 1.62250
[/INDENT]
Adjust the bed according the output for each corner. Once complete, run the SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE command again and repeat the process until you are happy with the results. Remember you shouldn’t adjust the base screw so in essence this is doing a 3 point level because we are only adjusting 3 of the screws.
Now we can home the axis and create a mesh
G28
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
Again, yup. I should have mentioned the Screw Tilt Adjust in my last post. In fact, I do it even before calibrating Z Offset.
Oh, BTW, don’t be afraid to make changes to the automated section of printer.cfg. That’s the section at the very bottom that says not to makes changes. Just don’t insert any blank lines – they will cause the section to fail. Instead of going through the Z Offset procedure over and over and over, I use the procedure once to get the basic offset. Then, using the 20mm squares, I determine the final Z Offset and alter the automated setting to match. FYI, increasing the Z Offset value lowers the nozzle; decreasing raises it.