I had some confusion on translating e-steps from Marlin to Klipper since they use different numbers. Sound like you are making progress.
Some of the numbers seem to be used oppositely. What I mean is Marlin seems to use increasing numbers for some things that Klipper seems to use decreasing numbers to accomplish. It’s a little confusing.
I agree. The saving grace is how fast it is to make changes in Klipper. In Marlin, I tried to do a couple of corrections at once due to the time and effort to recompile and move to a SD card to reflash. With Klipper I concentrate on one item at a time. A good example is the bed mesh settings, I try to get the back right corner correct and then the back left corner, then the fronts. It is easy to change a value by a few mm then test.
We’re in total agreement. There really is no comparison between the complexity of changing Marlin and the ease of changing Klipper. And Klipper prints faster and better on top of it. So far, loving it.
To (temporarily) prevent another wire in the extruder wiring harness from breaking, I have rigged up a crude, but effective, support for wiring harness. I’m going to design and print a support that will move the flexing of the cable away from the connector junction.
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Obviously, it’s not much, but it works. I’m thinking I’ll design a support that rectangular hole that fits around the stepper motors connector and continues up a couple of inches above the motor. The yellow support is simply taped to the back of the motor using some 3M VHB.
I did something similar. All of mine are direct drive, so I used the old bowden tubes as a support. To make stiffer I put a 16 gauge steel wire inside. Ender 5 Plus rear cable guide by woodwaker - Thingiverse
I use bowden tube connectors to hold the ends in place. here is another example Hemera mount for Ender 5 EZABL by woodwaker - Thingiverse
I tried to make it stiff enough, but still flexible. Currently I’m using split loom to cover the bundle.
@woodwaker_dave, FYI, the 1st link is 404.
If I go to thingiverse and search for 4616158 it gives no results. Possible you have that page set ot private?
I just edited and saved. Not sure why it is not working.
works now.
Thanks for letting me know. This is just to give you an idea on ways to get the cables to your hot end. I have all of mine including the ADXL cable bundled inside of the wrap. It is attached at each end using the bowden connector.
I’m looking at this for my Ender 5: [U]https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4270864[/U]
That is a nice looking design. I’m considering mounting my spools above the printers. I’m in the basement and have a holder to store rolls above my printers. Thinking of adding a holder from that.
Guess I’m joining the Klipper Club or at least I put my application in. I put MainsailOS on a 32 gb SD card today. The went through the steps to get Mainsail all set. up. Compiled Klipper and was able to flash it to. my Ender 3 v2. After a couple of tries I got rid of all the errors. I think part of it I was watching one of Nero’s videos for installing Klipper on the ED3v2 but he was using Fluiddpi so the steps were a little different. Tried to print a test cube that I had printed with Marlin. Got a couple of errors about not liking some of the lines in the startup gcode. I’m going to take then offending lines out and see what happens. I can move the X Y & Z so Mainsail is taking to the printer.
One of the 1st things I want to do is figure out how to the the EZABL working with it.
You’re likely to get Console msgs like “Unknown command “/””, or “M201”, or “M203”. You can safely ignore them. Klipper doesn’t implement them because the creator considers them superfluous.
The most important thing, once you have basic operation going, is to move on to Input Shaping and Pressure Advance. You should order an ADXL345 to do the Input Shaping. These 2 features have greatly improved my print quality and speed.
I can’t wait to hear your impressions of being able to make major configuration changes via printer.cfg instead of having to re-compile and flash.
Good to hear that you got it going. Sound like you are using the stock board. I have a macro setup for START_PRINT that does everything the slicer startup code did. Let know if you would like to see it.
Here is what I did for EZABL on my BTT min3 V2 - see also screen shot of my printer.cfg
You need to determine the Pin numbers for the probe on your board and the correct offsets for your mount, those should be the same as Marlin.
Define a probe
[probe]
pin: !PC2
#z_offset: 1
new values
old values
#x_offset: -33
#y_offset: -45
new values 2021-8-19
x_offset: -60 # left of nozzle
y_offset: -25 # front nozzle
I inserted this in PRINTER.CFG before my [stepper_z]
You also need one more change in
[stepper_z]
step_pin: PB0
dir_pin: !PC5
enable_pin: !PB1
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 2 # unique lead screws
endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop #EZABL
#position_endstop: 0.2 # this is no longer a valid command
position_max: 300
position_min: -2 # The Z carriage may need to travel below the Z=0
Thanks for chiming in @woodwaker_dave. The more Klipper enthusiasts the better 
I haven’t been on the for some time. Got to many irons in the fire. I have been using Klipper with either Fluidd or Mainsail for almost a year - the only caution I have is be careful of updates, they can sometimes require that you regenerate and recompile the printer firmware.
I heard something similar from Nero 3D. I don’t think I’ve run into it yet. It’s 1 of the reasons I’ve been working on a simple way to back up and restore Klipper. So far, it’s been a bit of a challenge, but I’ll keep at it.
I found a way to create a backup of the Pi MicroSD card. I use Win32 Disk Imager to create a image file of the card. I have not spent much time, but it makes a copy of the card - the same size as the card. I used 32GB cards so had a really big image file. There is probably a way to make it smaller or a different program. I have ended up just rebuilding the whole program from scratch with the lastest version.