My techie buddy and I have been playing around with Marlin since I finally broke down and bought a Creality 4.2.7 32 bit board. We went through several different versions of Marlin before I ended up with Bugfix 2.0.x 21/5/19 from a place that updates frequently and you pay $10 a year for access to all his versions. I can’t find the site now because my friend did most of it.
I have noticed that the screen changes and the menu changes with each variation. The first didn’t have M600 so we tried some others.
Is there any way to fiddle with these items without major coding? I would like it to read out % complete and not waste space on my main screen saying 100% and never changing. 100% of what?
The first version didn’t have M600 but it had a button for ‘filament change’. That wouldn’t be ba
01 d to have.
Take a look at Unified2 by TH3DStudio, that is what I was using on my Ender 3 v2 until I went to Klipper. Creality Ender 3 Firmware (32-Bit) - TH3D Studio Help Center You have to compile it but it’s easy with Visual Studio and there are directions on the site on how to set it up. I’ll bet it wouldn’t be a problem for your techie buddy.
I will try it out. For sure it will be him that downloads it. I found out I didn’t have a reset button when the power gets cut off but I have M600 and can even click on it in Marlin. It seems strange that it doesn’t have that feature. I do have 32 bits now. When I first got my ender 3 pro I was shutting my printer off and on again multi times and different ways and it never blinked. It really sucks to not have the power loss recuperation feature.
I don’t think either of those functions are something to do with the motherboard. I think they are both Marlin functions, some manufacturers choose to use them and some don’t. Might have something to do with the chip set too. My Ender 3 v2 had M600 as I used it to change colors, it had the 4.2.2 board. I’ve never had much confidence with the resume after power failure.
I’m pondering how I can post about an alternative way to do multi-color. It is a variation on how I’m doing inlay printing. I’m having a little trouble figuring out how to frame it, but I can say it would not involve the use of M600.
I now have M600 but no power resume. I guess I’ll have to find another Marlin. I have a filament change option which I like.
I just paint where I want the color change and let the IDEX do the rest of the work. Working well on inlay too. :D:D:D
Yup, with IDEX color change is much less of an issue. My idea for an alternative is really intended for non-IDEX+ printers.
I have done it a couple of times on the ender using the switch filament feature in Prusaslicer. It’s done after you slice the model.
Actually, my technique involves separate print jobs for each of the 2 colors.