A week ago or so I decided to put Klipper on my Ender 3 v2 after some trial and error and help from the other Klipper uses here I was able to get it working. I was in the process of calibrating the pressure advance and input shaping (I think that’s what it’s called) I decide to get rid of the boden tube extruder with a direct drive. I haven’t been happy with the boden setup for a while but it really wasn’t until I bought the SV04 with direct drive extruders that I decided I liked them better. Creality as an upgrade kit I bought off Amazon that is a complete drop in unit. Has a Ender 3 style fan on it and comes with the fans, hotend, extruder and the wiring harness. You wire everything except the extruder to the motherboard, the extruder has an extension cable you plug into the existing extruder wire plug. Had to print a new mount for the EZABL and go back through the setup for it. With that all done it’s time to set the z-offset for Klipper.
Did the PROBE_CALIBRATE and set the z-offset as per direction. Came out to be 1.85 printed a 30x30 test square and it was to close to I started backing it off. Next still to close. after about 6 times I decided to start over, well not from the very beginning all I did was run PROBE_CALIBRATE again and set the z-offset again. This time I thing it came out as 1.35 so I printed a test square, looked good but the infill lines were not attached. So I started increasing the number 10 at a time. At 1.65 it finally started looking pretty good except it was a tad to close so I backed it off to 1.60 and the square looked really good. Decided to print a nozzle torque wrench handle to see what a print would look like. Then on to pressure advance and input shaping.
My next mod for the Ender 3 v2 will probably be a second Z lead screw the should eliminate the Z sag the Ender 3’s seem to suffer from, I know mine does and every once in a while I have to reset it. Guess when get done I’ll. have an Ender 3 v2 Pro
On bed slinger style printers you have to use the ADXL345 separately on each axis: once on the X axis and once on the bed. That means you can’t just use the SHAPER_CALIBRATE command. You’ll have to use TEST_RESONANCES on each axis.
Had a scare today, as I think I mentioned I converted my Ender 3 v2 to a direct drive hotend. I started the print for the new 5" KlipperScreen but when I changed filament I forgot to take the clip off the reel. I stopped the print from KlipperScreen removed what was there and started again. When the print started I noticed that no filament was extruding. Looked at the extruder and the gear wasn’t turning. The old extruder motor is still mounted so I plugged the wire into it. It wouldn’t turn either. Turned everything off and set the screen mount to print on the SV04 while I figured out the Ender.
Returned later and turned the E3v2 on and told it to extrude using KlipperScreen, it worked. Tried both motors and both worked. With both motors not working my 1st thought was that the motherboard went south or the extruder wire came loose, hoping for the 2nd.
I have canceled prints before in Mainsail and was able to resume and all was good. Not sure what the difference is or if something else is going on. I’m going to start a print shortly and see what happens.
Started a dinosaur print for the great granddaughter and nothing was coming out of the extruder. pulled on the filament and I could pull and push it without holding the release lever. As it turns out the screws for the gear were loose. Yea I should have checked them before I installed it and I know better. So we’re back in business.
Probably the main difference is the bed size. I attached all my config files, use what you need. You’ll need to rename some of them but I’m sure you know that already.
pulled on the filament and I could pull and push it without holding the release lever. As it turns out the screws for the gear were loose. Yea I should have checked them before I installed it and I know better. So we’re back in business.