I’ve mentioned about how my Ender 5’s Micro Swiss extruder stopped working, and that I wasn’t sure if it was the stepper driver or the wiring from the mcu to extruder stepper motor.
Turns out it was the wiring. In the meantime I had already swapped in an SKR 1.4 Turbo mcu, even though it doesn’t really fit in the Ender 5 chassis properly. I made a new wire harness from Ethernet stranded cable. It has been working really well with Klipper for about 2 months. Yesterday, I decided it was time to try swapping the Creality 4.2.7 mcu back in and button up the printer.
Things were going well. I had removed the borosilicate glass bed and put it to the side while dialing in the settings. I tried setting up Klipper with MainSail. That did not go well. I could not get it to reliably connect. So I went back Klipper with fluiddpi. That went much easier. The initial dialing in worked well. In fact, I was at the point where I needed to put the glass plate back on, so I could continue with the configuration process. So as to not do any damage to the Klipper configuration I had on the Pi 4 B+, I did the Creality-4.2.7-tuned Klipper config on my Pi 3B+.
Then disaster struck. I don’t know why or how but, as I was placing the glass plate on the printbed, I smelled smoke. I looked down to my left and saw a curl of magic smoke rising from the Pi 3B+ ?. It died. I powered down the Pi 3 and Ender 5 then disconnected the Pi from the printer. I tried turning the printer on >>> nothing. The Creality 4.2.7 was also dead. I uninstalled it. When I turned it over, I saw that the Polyfuse that protects the micro USB power input had black soot around it ? More on this later.
So, I reinstalled the SKR 1.4 Turbo. Got it all wired up and started testing. Nothing from the BL Touch. Dang, it’s dead too ? A dead Pi 3B+, dead Creality 4.2.7 mcu, dead BL Touch. I’ve ordered a replacement Pi 3B+ and a Creality CR10 Touch. I won’t order a Creality 4.2.7 at this point.
And, on that Pi 3B+ that I said I’d come back to, I learned online that polyfuses apparently reset themselves after tripping. A couple of places even said it can take several days for them to repair themselves. I’ve never heard of such a thing with electronics, but who knows (well, maybe 1 of you forum members might). I’ll leave the board alone for a week and try it again. If it doesn’t work I’ll see about replacing the polyfuse.
That doesn’t sound like a fun day at all. I don’t recall ever hearing about a polyfuse. It even more amazing was the fact that it could repair itself in a few days. You kept mentioning the glass plate I thought you were going to tell us you managed to break it.
The BLTouch’s are finicky little devils. Yesterday mine was working today it won’t probe the bed without erroring, mines a clone. I contacted Sovol we’ll see what they do about it.
Sorry to hear about your problems. I know you will solve them. I have heard about the polyfuse. Not had any experience thought. But, from what I understand it should have reset by cooling off by power off. However, I have not been in a situation to be around them in many years. I do have some power speakers which supposedly have one in each speakers to protectthem, but they have never been activated.
That leaves you with the Artist-D and you said it was down. Good look on getting one back up. Keep us informed!
@Ender5r Sorry to hear about your electronics challenges. Even though I have been working with electronics for over 40 years I still get nervous every time I flip a power switch after any change. That is why I prefer to work with software. Even if I really mess it up I can just go back to the previous version and start over again.
The weird(er) part of it is that I hadn’t just flipped a power switch. Everything was running already when, suddenly, the smoke appeared. In any case, my CR10 Touch just arrived, so it’s off to the basement.
Sounds similar to my experience, frying two Creality controller boards in two weeks.
I suspect the printer’s power supply. Don’t hook anything up to it without checking it first. Seems to be intermittent, though, which is pretty hard to test for. It would probably need to be tested under load as well to reproduce the issue.
On the other hand, the problem (mine, at least) may have been in the wiring. Perhaps the 24V to the heater somehow got into the 5V for the CR-Touch. That would explain it being intermittent.
Hope you recover! Can’t say I have.
I highly recommend Klipper, especially with fluidd rather than OctoPrint. There is a pre-made image file of it that makes it much easier to get started. Recommend watching the Nero 3D videos on youtube.
Just set up the Sovol SV-04. NOT impressed. We have 4 snapmaker 3d printers and wanted a dual head printer. This printer is not user friendly. I have spent 6 hours test printing doing everything I know from experience printing with 3d printers. The PLA will not adhere to the build plate no matter what I do. I use 215° for hotend temp and 70° for the build plate. Speed 1000mm. Filament just slides around on the plate. I have leveled the plate 30 times, adjusted the hotend 30 times. Nothing works. Snapmaker took longer to assemble but it worked perfectly after the first two tries and has been working perfectly ever since. I use the same settings on the Snapmaker and it prints perfectly the parts we need. There is no real time help available and trouble shooting guides don’t even address this problem. I have tried the fixes posted here and none of them work either. No matter how close or far from the build plate the hot end is, the filament will not adhere. Filament just slides around on the plate making something resembling shreaded wheat cereal. Have contacted Sovol and am waiting for support. At this point I am ready to send it back.
[I]I have a SV04 too and I am not impressed with it either. My issues were different than yours, the 3DTouch didn’t work and the bed was badly wrapped. It took over a month and a half and a PayPal dispute to get their attention otherwise all I got was BS. Hope you bought it from Amazon as returning it to Soval you’ll have to pay shipping to China even if it came from a US warehouse.
Now for your problem, the thing that is catching my eye is the speed I print at 60mm or slower depending on the filament I am using. [/I]