I am new to 3D printing and just bought an Ender 3 v2. I’ve been playing around with various filaments to learn the ins and outs of them but have run into the same issue time and time again. After researching ideal Cura profile settings for PLA+ and PETG I input the correct settings, slice the model, save to SD card and execute the print on my machine. As soon as I try this I go into the tune menu and notice the print speed setting is at 100 (even though I had set it to say 55), Nozzle temperature stays at 0, Bed temperature seems to be right but then Fan speed is always at max 255 (see photo attached).
From my inital research I suspect it has something to do with the g-code. I have set Cura to the Ender 3 Pro printer settings and still no luck getting this to work, starting to get a little annoyed as the only way I have been able to get prints going successfully is manually changing things in the tune menu after executing the print.
Any insight on this or a direct solution would be awesome! I really wanna get printing
I think the setting on the printer is display is in percent, so you are printing at 100% of the setting made in Cura (55mm/s). (Some slicers work in % too and it gets confusing.) I’m not sure what is going on with the nozzle temperature. Usually, the start code sets a bed temperature, tells the printer to wait until the bed reaches that temperature, then tells the nozzle to heat up and wait until that slicer-set temperature is reached, and then executes the rest of the g-code.
Can you slicer something and post, say, the first 30 lines of g-code?
Exactly my thinking@Alan: let’s take a quick look at some sample g-code. It might also be useful to see a photo of the LCD main screen as it’s printing, rather than the Tuning screen. I don’t think the Tuning screen is updated to reflect the setting in the g-code (IOW, unless you manually change it, I think the nozzle temp is always at 0 on the Tuning screen).
You might also check the version of firmware on your machine. Mine had .9.0.9 and after upgrading it to 1.1.6 (latest as of this date), several problems i was having with the menu have disappeared.
Just rename the file to firmware.bin place it on the root of the micro SD card turn off the ender 3 v2 put the card in and turn on the machine. Your now updated to the latest version.
R U Serious? Is this all that’s required to upgrade firmware on a Creality printer: download the hex file, rename it to firmware.bin, put it at the root of an SD card, put the card into the printer, then turn the printer on? Does this work for most/all Creality printers? If so, we have another member who really needs to know this.
If the 32 bit board makes updating that easy it seems like it could be worth upgrading. I just verified this on Chep YT site. My question is will any 32 bit board be the same or just the creality board?
I’m wondering the same. My 1st guess is, no. I suspect there has to be a routine within the firmware specifically put there to facilitate this way to upgrade. IOW, when the printer is turned on, one of, or maybe, the 1st thing it does is check to see if there is an SD card (which most firmware already does) and, if there is, is there a file named firmware.bin at the root of the card. If yes, copy that firmware.bin file to EPROM, so it can become the new firmware. I’m not at all sure other firmware has this feature, although it sure would be a great idea to copy. This is where open source has an advantage: the firmware feature can be copied freely, and the manufacturer can’t complain.
I was just checking the Chep site again and left him the question. I noticed that several people with the upgraded enders were having problems upgrading but I think they succeeded after awhile. Shall have to check back again. One thing I did notice was that Chep (I forget his real name) said to rename the new bin file or it won’t update. That seemed strange to me. I’ve always overwritten the old file with a new file of the same name. Of course I’m not a programmer.
I suspect you’re misunderstanding just a tiny bit. Yes, the file on the SD card has to be named, exactly, firmware.bin. How it gets that way doesn’t really matter. If there is already a file named firmware.bin on the SD card, and you save new firmware code to it, while keeping name as firmware.bin, it should work fine. The way I’m reading it, the bootloader reads the SD card and upgrades the firmware if it finds a file of that name. I’ll check Chep’s site (BTW, his name is Charles (Chuck) Hellebuyck) to be sure my assumptions are correct.
Update: yup, it’s like I thought: all that matters is that the file on the SD card is named firmware.bin. It makes perfect sense that it would be this way.
On the Ender 3 V2 the bootloader works a bit differently. Each time you go to update you have to have a single .bin file with a different name on the SD card. If it sees the same name as the last update it will no apply it again. You will notice on the Creality site each bin file now has a different name:
You are likely correct. Here is a video that talks about the interaction of the start gcode with the slicer settings. This video is specifically about PETG but should apply to your question.
Hi Irv. Are you saying not to name the firmware file on the SD card to firmware.bin? At first glance that doesn’t seem to align with CHEP’s video.
Update: I decided to investigate. According to the official Creality video, [U]- YouTube the firmware file must be the only file on the SD card, and the file was not renamed to firmware.bin. So, CHEP’s advice to use a separate SD card dedicated to firmware makes sense, but the other advice does not. It much more agrees with you Irv.
Irv, did you ensure the firmware file was the only file on the SD card, or did it work fine with other files on the card?
I’m guessing that the people that were having problems either misnamed (typo), the file or did not use all lower case characters when renaming it or did not have extensions turned on in windows which would have resulted in a file named firmware.bin.bin but would look correct in file explorer. Or maybe not having it in the root of the SD card.
Yes I have been very interested in that. There seems to be a problem with people not being able to calibrate it and the hot end hitting (rather hard it sounds like) the bed of the printer their firmware disables the limit switch i’m guessing which makes sense.
I’m a little surprised by this. I would have hoped that the BLTouch would be able to adjust for printing, but the limit switch would be there as an emergency backup. I can see how that might not be, but it’s a little disappointing. My mental scenario would be that, if the nozzle gets within a certain distance, and the BLTouch hasn’t yet triggered, the firmware would look to the limit switch as the final arbiter.
Yes to me that would make more sense but from what i’m reading here Reddit - Dive into anything it doesn’t seem to be the case as yet. Might change as it go’s though.
