Picked up a Ender 3 S1 Plus on a Black Friday deal. It arrived early yesterday evening. Unpacked it and assembled it. First thing I did was remove the bottom cover and check to see which chip it has on the main board, it had the F4 chip. While in there I installed the cable for the S1/v2 color screen, the one with the control knob. It comes mostly assembled, mounted the Sprite extruder on the gantry, then mounted the gantry to the base. Installed the S1 touch screen, attached all the plugs to the appropriate locations. This whole process took 30-40 minutes.
After putting it together it moved it to its permanent location. Decided to not even try the Creality firmware so the first thing I did was flash mroscoc Professional firmware, this is the same firmware I use on the S1 Pro and I like it. Laid out much better that Creality’s firmware and has many more options, also play with Octoprint nicely which is important to me as that is what I use to send print jobs to the printer.
That’s as far as I got last night. Next step is to level the bed and do a test print.
The Ender 3 S1 Plus is a mix of the between the S1 & S1 Pro it has a 300x300x300 printing area, has the metal hot end parts minus the Titanium heat break. Shares the PC build surface with the S1. All these can be added to bring it up to a S1 Plus Pro, if there was such as thing. If this printer is as good as my S1 Pro it will be a winner for sure.
I ran Klipper on the Ender 3 v2 other than the flat file configuration as opposed to compiling source to make changes I didn’t see any other advantage to it. Not saying I won’t revisit it in the future.
mriscoc Professional firmware has many setting you can change from the screen for instance when I put it on the S1 Plus it was actually for the S1 and I went in and changed the bed size and also the probe points.
To get the mriscoc Professional firmware to work on the S1 Plus I had to make a couple of configurations to tell it the bed size. It also requires the screen from the S1/v2 with the control knob. After flashing the firware you need to reset everything. This can be done from the menu. Next proceeded to set the correct bed size and probing area.
Advanced
Physical settings
Max X Position 320
Max Y Position 304
Min X Position -7
Min Y Position -7
Back
Advanced (should still be in Advanced)
Bed Leveling
Mesh Insert
Min Mesh X 10
Min Mesh Y 10
Max Mesh X 285
Max Mesh Y 260
Back Back
Not sure if this is saved automatically to be on the safe side
Control
Save settings
Couldn’t find any of these setting on Creality’s site couldn’t even find the source code for the S1 Plus on the S1 so I took these setting from a S1 Plus Klipper config and they are working fine on my S1 Plus
Besides the flat file configuration, which I think is huge, there is also the Input Shaper & Pressure Advance features of Klipper. And that’s not including the fact that printing is almost always faster with Klipper. Oh, if you can get hold of 1 these days, a Pi Zero 2 W is plenty fast enough for Klipper + MainSail or Fluidd.
I thought about buying a Sonic Pad but with Creality’s reputation for software updates and the fact that it’'s running an old version for Kilpper I decided against it. I have a Pi 3b & Zero 2w that I use for Octoprint now. Have also seen where Klipper can be run on some old phones and tablets too.
Slowly turning my Ender 3 S1 Plus into an Ender 3 S1 Plus Pro wasn’t happy with the PC build plate that came on it, got spoiled printing with the PEI build plate on the S1 Pro. Ordered on from Amazon which is 2 sided, one textured the other smooth.
I do not have the time right now to dig in, but just for fun, here is a picture of the inside of the FLSUN Speeder Pad for you guys that are smarter about this stuff than me. From what I have read, it runs a version of Linux that you can root. Not sure what is under that colossal heat sink?
