Yes, Selective Laser Sintering or now, Selective Light sintering from high powered LED light sources.
L.A.S.E.R. doesn’t specify the light source; only that the light is highly collimated and is stimulated by emission of radiation.
What do you use Vasilli?
I say ,NOW they use high powered LED source and SLS stands for Selective Light Sintering.
Selective Laser Sintering is the previously3d printing technology!
What do you mean by that?
I’m only pointing out that an LED can be the basis of a LASER, so the name really doesn’t need to change. I suspect it’s more of a marketing ploy.
Yes i agree with you! But technology is technology!
So to conclude, Bondtech produce their extruders in SLS printers in Nylon material.
That is pretty cool. I wonder how long it takes to produce a single extruder, and if they ‘print’ more than 1 at a time in the same printer.
Vasilli I meant what is your SLS system that you use.
At the same time could print 100
I don’t use SLS, but MSLA . I know SLS technology so one day i’ll built one for me!
That is a big SLS printer.
I don´t think the plating is doing anything. It is just marketing BS. Also why use plating on the last few millimetres of the hotend, when you had a huge distance of ptfe tubing to push the filament though, which is not even ment for 3D printing, but for pneumatic?
The plastic may stick less to the metal!
Well, if the plastic is melted it basically sticks to nothing and drops out of the nozzle, so why is the coating there in the first place? To prevent the plastic to stick in none melt-zone areas? Why should it stick there? It is not melted at that point. If it is, then your heat break cooling is broken.
The only real world situation I can imagine, when this coating may be useful is, when the power gets out. In that case the heat from the block will climb up the heat pipe and melt the filament for a few seconds. So it may not stick and you can push the entire blob down to the hot zone again during normal operation.
Well, I have been there. My solution was simple. I disconnected the fan, waited for the heat pipe to turn into a melt zone, extruded filament, while I reconnected the fan, to cool the heat pipe again. This worked very well. No need to disassemble anything. And I don´t think my crappy cheap E3D clones have coating the user cannot see. The invisible magic coating is the first feature a clone product would drop to save money.
I hate this forum. Notifications are broken, reverse topics are broken. You cannot edit posts with pictures without loosing the predefined sizes. Notification are not shown directly as popup like in other forums and you need additional clicks and page loading to see the actual post. Sorry for picking up, some old post and answering to that (again).
This is the point against All Metal hot ends. And this is why i prefer E3D hot ends with the little tube before the hot end. I have to change it at least after 24/7 printing for 2-three months. I can evolve it for good though.
I was just looking at the e3d hotend installation for my ender3 pro. I think I’ll pass for now and just try to make my new fan fix my heat creep problem. If I were trying to print materials that require high heats I would certainly go for the E3d hemera.
Good choice for Ender.
The installation for someone like me is a bear. Meaning complicated. I can’t work my damaged brain too hard unless I take it very slow.
Just take your time! If there is a problem with the installation, you have us to help you out!