20 hours into a print and my printer plugged up and the print failed.

Is there any way of me going into the gcode and figuring out when it failed and starting printing again where it failed?

I guess you can only measure the height and reslice the model from that distance up. If the print still is stuck on the build plate you can try then to continue. Try using 0 bottom layers, so no walls get printed if that is a lithophane to avoid getting a seem.

Or you print the upper half as separate file and glue them together. Unfortunately I guess, when it is a lithophane, you will probably see a seem in this case.

@ roon4660, I have no idea as to how to resume such a print, but I am still quite curious as to why you, in particular, seem to have soo many clogs. When I printed my umbrella brackets earlier this year, that was 4 separate prints of 5 1/2 days each, and none of them clogged. To me, it just doesn’t seem normal.

I accidentally sent the photo twice.

I have been printing for days without any clogs and now this. And it is never in the nozzle it clogs where my Bowden tube meets the capricorn tube in my hot end. For a while I was getting clogs twice a day or more and then a few weeks with none. Of course it always comes when you are at the end of a long print.

Were your other jobs longer than the failed one? If not, sounds like heat is creeping up the hotend.


Yes, I have suspected that for a long time. I have been doing better since I bought a better connector from Bowden tube to the hot end. Sometimes I wonder about the filament but it is so hard to tell. I even think I am more prone to jams during hot weather but it certainly isn’t hot in Montreal this time of year.

It really does beg the question of whether it would be worth it to switch another hotend make & model.

If I have any more trouble I will look for something different that comes highly recommended. I already have three hot ends. Two are the same. I have all metal hotend that I might be able to make work. I was oozing out the sides which the one I have now used to do before I put the capricorn tube inside.

The all-metal hotend might work well if you follow the procedure for tightening the Bowden tube into the hotend; the procedure we’ve discussed before.

I think if I could stop the heat creep with a different cooling system it would stop.