Those lines are fine, but they do not represent a real world print.
In the real world print you have bigger surfaces and on the third or forth line to build these surface you will notice gaps between the lines at some points. It looks like lines are placed down with a little spacing next to each other, while it should be a connected surface.
This can have several reasons:
- nozzle to high (filament gets dropped like from an airship and even so the line sticks to the bed, it does not stick to the cold line already on the plate.)
- nozzle to low (filament of prior lines gets scraped of by the nozzle itself) (not the case here as it would not pass the chep test)
- under extrusion (the lines placed on the bed are not thick enough to connect to the parallel lines already on the plate. Result like #1)
First thing: Check your extruder gears. They may be full of filament dust and have not enough grip. It is always a good idea to use a paint brush or an old tooth brush on the gears to clear them out.
Then you should check the extruder calibration. Mark a section 100mm from the extruder away. Extrude 100mm (PronterFace or so) and check if the mark is about to enter the extruder. If it is more than a millimetre to short, you need a calibration of the e-steps. You could try to increase the first layer extrude rate in your slicer from 100% to e.g. 115% but this will only compensate the issue and not fix your setup.
If the extruder is set-up ok, then adjust your z offset. Your nozzle needs to be down a little. Change by 0.01 and retry until it works. Again you could increase the extrude rate in your slicer, but that will not fix the real issue and just works around it.
You have auto bed levelling, but that does no setup the z offset for you. The z offset depends on the long term temperature of the bed. The first print may fail and the second or third works, because the heat creaps into all corners of the bed over time. That is why I tend to turn on the bed, wait for it to reach the print temperature and then wait for around 10 to 15 minutes, before I start the print job. that way my first layer is always the same and not dependent on the room temperature or the last print attempt. Thats why I stack my prints inside OctoPrint. When I start printing I usually have at least three print jobs I can perform in a row without having to pre heat before each print.
Summery: Pre heat your bed and wait. If the print fails, lower the nozzle and retry until it works. When printing the next time remember to pre heat the bed before the first print and you will have less problems.
I know this is a lot for your brain to take in, but having a specific routine when 3d printing is key.
Maybe hang a little card on top your printer with all the steps required before pressing print. Like a pilots checklist. You and anyone already does that silently already, but sometime steps get forgotten.
Stuff like “Check if the print bed is free”, “Check if the print bead is clean.” “Check if the belts are ok and tight.” “Preheat bed and wait 10 minutes after it reaches print temperature.” “Check if the filament path is clear and the filament is not broken.”
Maybe some “first layer rules” list, so you always know what do do when a print does not stick.
These are just some examples for such list(s), but in the end they save a lot of time. I guess everyone here had issues in the past which would have been prevented by such a warning sign and a proper launch procedure. Maybe printing and designing a warning and takeoff sign is a nice 3d printing project, too.
I myself remember hearing a loud noise from my printers room, because I started a print remotely and the print head crashed into an old finished print I just had forgotten on the build plate. Just last week I started a print and after 60 minutes, when I checked on it, there was simply nothing. During maintenance and repair I removed the filament and forgot to insert it again. 
