BLTouch issue

I have a bltouch 3.1 installed on an ender 3 v2 running a jyers/marlin firmware doing a 15*15 probe.

The issue is when probing…sometimes the pin doesnt retract and the bltouch goes all the way down then back up flashing red. It counts that as one spot then probes again in the same spot without issue. It then counts that retry as a second spot and finished at 190ish/225 points.

Im switching to a 10*10 because 15 is probably excessive, but why does it do this?

My only experience with a BL Touch failing was when I noticed that the plastic probe had accidentally been bent sideways. Since I manually straightened the probe out it has performed perfectly. BTW, I think even 10x10 probing is somewhat excessive. I use 5x5. I also do it using OctoPrint. I find the Bed Visualizer + Mesh Levelling has done a really good job of ensuring the nozzle stays the right height above the bed.

Do you need a raspberry pi to use octoprint? My wife will tar and feather me if i spend any more money on 3d print stuff right now lol

I am using RasPi to run OctoPrint. It is possible to run OP on Windows, Mac, and Linux. It’s written in Python so, basically, anything that can run Python can run OP – it’s just way easier to set up on a RasPi.

And more resource friendly. What if you want to play a game or need to use the computer for something else probably unplanned, you are doomed. Any unwanted action or crash could cause the print to fail.

You don´t want to run your printer and your desktop computer for 12 hours just for OctoPrint. There are so many booby traps especially when using Windows. Windows likes to restart without asking, updating stuff, blocking with a requester or just slowing down everything while starting some cleaning routine. Hell it even restarts on its own, when using its own desktop burn to disk function and ruins the CDs/DVD/BR.

At least Linux and MacOS are more friendly in this regard, but there is also the power consumption, but nothing beats a pi3 or 4. If the pi is mounted on your printer, there is nothing that can cause a fail but a power failure itself. It just works and there are zero scenarios where it also could fail. It just works, keeps a database of all printed files and you can control start a print by just using a tablet, phone or basically any device with a proper browser.

Thanks to wifi you can upload stuff even while printing and create a full load of prints to print in serial and once done you shut down the computer and just use your phone to start the next print in line. Very handy.

A PI is not much money. Get a “Pi Zero 2” (not the 1) and grab some existing SD card and you are good to go. You probably can even use the printers power supply to drive the pi. Case and stuff can be printed and with in no time you have your pi mounted on your printer.

I agree with most of what you say. The 1 thing I would caution about with Pi’s is power. It is very easy to get “undervolt detected” errors with a Pi. I got them even with an AC adapter that’s certified for use with a Pi. I finally got an adjustable buck converter, dialed it to 5.13 volts and cranked up the allowed current. No issues since then.

@Geit, you have mentioned having jobs lined up in the past. I don’t understand how this works. How can you start a new print when the previous one is still on the print bed? Also, I find I need to visit the printer before print jobs anyway, to remove the just printed model, change the filament, maybe clean the print bed, etc.

While Wndows does like to reboot, it doesn’t do it when I’m in the middle of something. I have it restricted to a few hours in the middle of the night. It has never rebooted in the middle of burning a CD or DVD (not that I burn any of those any more).

I meant that I can simply start the next print without the need of a slicer capable pc, but I can print everything in line without having the printer cool down. Usually I take long prints over night and the smaller ones, when I am around. So the printer is basically 24/7 printing, without any wasting energy by cooling and reheating.

Since I always preheat my printer for 7-10 minutes before the first print to get ahead of thermal expansion this continuous printing is very handy. Depending on the need of an object, I often slice them days ahead, until I have a reasonable amount of stuff to print in series. A neat side effect, beside saving preheat time and energy, is that the printers fail less, as each heat up/cool down cycle puts everything under thermal stress.

Especially when prototyping something in many cases I upload reworked stuff to OctoPrint while, the printer is printing a prior iteration. This is an advantage you don´t have using an SD card, as you cannot remove it while printing.

Ah, got it. Honestly, I don’t have that many things to print. Most times, I have to design the items, so there’s that.

So im printing a benchy and its BEAUTIFUL, thank you Ender5r and everyone else who helped!

However…is it normal to take 4 hours to print a benchy?

What speed did you print at?

40 or 50mm/s is usually my standard…can it go a bit faster?

Without supports, at 50 mm/s, my Cura 4.11 says it will take 4:50 to print, so your speed seems to be in the right range.

Ok cool.

Again Ender5r, thank you for all the help!

YW. Whatever help I can offer to others, I hope they pass it, and whatever else they learn, on to others.

Just stumbled into this site from a great video. Is 50mm/s a good print speed? I’ve been using the default of 80mm/s on my Ender 5 Pro. Only about a month into 3D printing so learning a lot as I go.

I suspect you will have more successful prints @ 50. Basically, everything in 3D printing gets easier as the speed goes down. 1st layer adhesion is a prime example.

Cool, I appreciate it!

Made a world of difference on a somewhat detailed and larger print that was giving me grief!

glad to hear it. Now, most likely after you have a better feel and understanding of FDM, you may want to look into using Klipper as your firmware. I’m just getting into it now and, so far, I’m very impressed. I have a test print going right now that looks to be 1 of the best prints I’ve ever made.

I’ll have to give it a shot soon. Still ramping up my 3D printing knowledge. ? I do find it a little odd that my Endor 5 Pro hasn’t had an update in over a year