Access Anywhere - The Spaghetti Detective
Acton Command Prompt
BL Touch Plugin
Bed Visualizer (I don’t understand what code I am supposed to enter to make this work.)
BetterHeater Timeout
Cooldown Notification
Dashboard
Detailed Progress
Firmware Updater
LED Strip Control
OctoPrint WideScreen
Thingivers Plugin
ipOnConnect
I am also running Octopod on my iPad, iPhone and Apple TV!
Some of these I don’t use much and am still learning how to use others.
What are you using? I can’t imagine 3D Printing without Octoprint.
Good thread! Made me review all the plugins that I’ve added. So far, I have:
AutoScroll
ConsolidateTempControl
Display Z
FileManager
Floating Navbar
FullScreen
HeaterTimeout
NavbarTemperature
OctoPod
Display ETA
System Command Editor (create, edit and delete System commands)
Themeify
USBControl (Can control the Raspberry Pi’s USB port – once I update the system!)
WebCam Tab
wow… our lists have very little overlap!
I will have to look up what you have installed learn all about them!
Thanks for sharing your list.
Spaghetti detective has worked well for me. I am usually in my home while I am printing and right by the printer in my maker space. I have not printing anything that takes more than a couple of hours. It did catch a print that went to “spaghetti” and sent me an alert. I think I am through my trial period. I need to look into what features I want and if I want to pay for them.
Hah! I confess to doing the same. Thank you for the feedback on the Detective. I prefer a more direct solution but may just go with a cloud-based one for simplicity. Isn’t the 1-computer option free?
Are you powering an LED strip using one of the Pi’s USB ports? I’m just starting to look into lighting options for the Pi cam.
@Ender5r I used to connect to the MP10 Mini using USB, but I had the printer freeze while printing occasionally. Since switching to a wifi-connected Raspberry Pi, I have not had any freezing problems. Granted, I have an old computer, but it is also nice to hand off the feeding of g-code to another device. Plus, its another gadget to play with! Cheers
@Alan ATM, I am using my original Surface Pro and, so far, it has not glitched or frozen up even once.Also, right now I have too many gadgets to look into.
Well, put OctoPrint on that new(er) device! Anyway, I hope to someday remotely view and access my printers’ controls as a matter of assurance when I’m away from home and they are making large parts.
One caution: James, the guy @ clough42 or YT, had an Octopi setup on one of his printers, with a bunch of add-ins installed, and he figured out that it was causing blobs on the surface of his prints, because the add-ins were interfering with the smooth transfer of g-code to the printer. You can watch it here: [U]Tap Guide Block II: Fusion 360 Tips from Viewers - YouTube Just something to keep in mind.
Since all my printers have an ATX Power supply, I connected to the power control line to the Pi as well using two resistors, a transistor and a switch, which allows me to use the fololowing modes: Always on, Always off and Auto.
Using the Plugin “PSU Control” and the switch in auto mode, I can turn on and off the printer remotely using octo print, but the even better use of this plugin is that once the printer cooled down it will turn off automatically. This is very handy for over night prints or if you have to leave before a print is finished.
My printers all use 12V for everything. I don´t see a good reason for changing that. The beds have an isolation below and heat up in a few minutes to 80° which is the max I use for ABS prints.
The only thing not using 12V is the heat bed of my GeitPrinter, which is running at 230V, while the three print heads are 12V.
However you could use an SSR or relay to switch the 24V towards the printer using octoprint.
Then you must be quite new to the 3d printing community as 24V boards are relative new. Two or three years ago most Chinese printers (like ANET and TronXY) used 12V unless you got some fancy models. Later on they swapped to 24V usually when dropping the 8 bit boards, too. Now 24V seems to be the new standard.
As said before. I don´t see a real benefit and beleve it all started as a marketing buzz since 24V sounds twice as good as 12V. Yeah, your heat bed gets up to temperature faster, which is only a big deal with big heat beds. Usually I wait 5 minutes after reaching bed print temperature to ensure the glass get evenly heated anyway.
That is one reason I dumped the potential Chinese firecrackers and replaced them with a proper certified PSU which even has reserves.
They also come with standby power for the Raspberry Pi, as 5V and a 3,3V rail for LED lighting and other components, which is very handy. No need to add additional step down converters.
I designed my own printer and used a 12V PSU right away, because it makes basic stuff like different voltages so easy.
I need to bring it up to date, but basically that is still it. It is work in progress and as well as all my other designs on Thingiverse:
Just redesigned the Z leadscrew mount and added an adjustable end stop. Now I need to bring the software up to date, which is quite a job as marlin has been designed for 8 bit hardware and you can see all the spaghetti code not even allowing to add a menu item or display output the simple way. I need to add my own code for tool changing, filament loading and unloading and tool head cleaning.
I can well imagine that Marlin is a bunch of spaghetti code… yuck! It would be a great project for several people to get together and rebuild Marlin from the ground up.
Your printer is very impressive: dual head and all. I can see that your electronics area can do with some reorganization, but hey, if it ain’t broke…
Thank you for the feedback on the Detective. I prefer a more direct solution but may just go with a cloud-based one for simplicity. Isn’t the 1-computer option free?
Anyway, I hope to someday remotely view and access my printers’ controls as a matter of assurance when I’m away from home and they are making large parts.