Then no orthotics is needed!! :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
Well, needed or not, I don’t think this guy will be getting any, not where he lives. Likely, he’s dead by now. He was already in his 80s, and that was more than 20 years ago, maybe more than 30.
Agreed! There are meny cases that there is no need of any orthotic while there is no problem even by deformations.
I saw the original post on this topic and jumped to the last page. I think it was about filament, and problems with Sunlu. I have had good luck with MicroCenters Inland PLA brand. If you are close you can often get it very reasonable. I have just started using Overture for PETG and had very good results with it and it is reasonably priced on Amazon.
I think Alan may have hit on a big part of the problem. I don’t think PLA is as sensitive to moisture as PETG or ABS, but if too damp it will not print well. I don’t know what your environment is, but I have to dry my PETG even from an unopened package before I can print it. I found a handy gadget Hygrometer Indoor Thermometer Amazon.com This is fairly accurate and will give you a good idea of the relative humidity of the container that is holding your filament. For $7 it is a good investment. I purchased one to put into my filament dryer (a modified food dehydrator) so I could see temperate and humidity. I was so impressed that I ordered two more, and have them in my storage boxes. If I leave one out in my print area it goes up to about 40% humidity, it is at 10% in the dryer. I have about 5-8 hours to print PETG once I take it out of the dryer and put on the printer. I let it dry for about 4 hours before using it again. There have been a lot of filamet dryers introduced recently on you-tube many as kickstarters, I have had good result with this and it can be expanded to hold more rolls with simple printed parts on Thingiverse. Amazon.com
I have 6 rolls currently in mine
I haven’t had much trouble with PETG at all. After printing, I put it in a heavy duty ziplock style bag with dessicant pack(s). I leave a tiny gap open in the ziplock, stick a narrow, tapered nozzle of my Stinger vacuum into the gap, suck out the air, then rapidly seal the ziplock as I withdraw the nozzle. So far, so good. A few of my dessicant packs are colored gel, and they’re still orange.
That’s a good idea. I purchased a much better storage container than I had been using, it has a foam seal and 4 tight snaps. I keep a large number of desiccant packs in it and check with the humidity monitor it is usually about 13-15 percent. I also purchased a gadget that Dr. Vax recommended, Eva-Dry Wireless Mini Dehumidifier, and keep it inside.
Folks this is a wonderful thread that highlights the filament brand you use and also how you store it a make a big difference in print quality, something people often forget. I hope to do some filament comparisons in future videos and have not done them to date because the testing just takes a very long time and has to be done on a single printer to minimize variables.
Dr Vax, thanks for the update. I have been printing almost entirely with PETG since I figured out how to get it to work. I need it for the higher temperature and for mechanical parts. I have had problems with it if it gets damp. So use a modified food dehydrator and dry boxes to keep it dry. Here is a good brand I found of re-cycled PETG, GreenGate3d.com
Like @woodwaker_dave, I’m migrating to almost entirely PETG. I have a few spools of PLA, but I’m not replacing them as they empty. I may keep a spool or 2 of PLA just for lithophanes.
I tried some ABS early on and had no luck, so stuck with PLA for almost 2 years. Then I needed some parts that could withstand higher temperatures and bit the bullet and worked with PETG, It is not much more difficult than PLA, and has better properties. Like you, I have not purchased any PLA since switching.
I realize it’s not being done as much as it could be, and should be, but PET(G) is AFAIK much more recyclable than most other plastics. In fact, there is new research on enzymes that indicates it will be possible to break down PET (and hopefully PETG) to its base components, to be reformulated into brand new, virgin plastic. Imagine water bottles, soft drink bottles, and other PET containers being recycled into brand ones, over & over.
ABS is quite easy to print, once you know the tricks. 
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Sorry for the huge image, but this forum software sucks and I am done with reediting the size values everytime I perform an edit.
The parts on the right side are ABS prints. The black on the left is the original design I replaced. I use a crappy old 95Euro Anet A8 printer for all kind of ABS prints and the results are quite nice.
Once you know how to eliminate bending, warping and to keep the stuff sticking, it is easy like printing PLA.
I have a roll of black ABS but haven’t used it yet because of the risk of the fumes. I also have a roll of Nylon that I haven’t used, for the same reason. I have considered the other filament that’s apparently very much like ABS, but has less fumes and is more UV resistant.
BTW @Geit, you can resize a photo after pasting it into the editing pane. There is a double-headed arrow available in the bottom right corner of every image that can be used to grow & shrink the image: no photo editting required. 
Except for the styrene. 
exactly. As I said, the fumes, the fumes…
The problem is that I post an image and set its size to 320x200 and post the reply. Everything is fine and the image is 320x200.
Then I edit because of a typo in text. Save the edit and the 320x200 width/height html tags are gone. Instead the image is shown as its full resolution of 1024x768 (which is the standard downscale I use when uploading images.)
This happens each time and is just annoying.
About the fumes: My printer is boxed and has a separate room, where I can open the window if needed. I could even add an vented outlet to my printer cabinet (the hole is there, but used for the mains power), but I am just to lazy.
I will have to check that resizing issue. I don’t think I’ve run into it.
Geit, thanks for posting the stricture and thanks Ender5r for the editing tip. What are the advantages of ABS vs PETG? I have a roll to experiment with, but so far just failures, so would like to know why you use it? Thanks
I don’t know them all, but I can tell you ABS has a GTT (Glass Transition Temperature) of 105C, while PETG is 80C.