Why does the MP10 use a weird length nozzle?

They use an 11.51mm long nozzle, which makes it tough to get anything but the ones they sell - for instance, a 0.6mm seems to be available in a 12.52mm but not 11.51mmm I could adjust the tube but that’d be a pain… this sucks.

Thank god I have a lathe - AJAWAM Swarf Page - LMS 4100 Lathe Mods


Interesting. I have a 1mm nozzle that I purchase on Amazon on my MP10. I just used the standard Creality compatible nozzles without difficulty.

Do you recall what vendor you got those from? The ones that I got were way 1mm too long and would have caused issues with the auto level and Z homing - I’ve done that before.

I thought I already replied but must have put it in the wrong place. Anytime you change the nozzle you have to adjust the Z offset. That is a standard operating procedure.

Most ABL sensors are adjustable, unfortunately, it looks like the MP10 may not be. You could try loosening the screws that hold it to the hot end bracket and sliding it up and down but I do not know if there is much play there.

I just double-checked my 1mm nozzle was from Amazon. It should be fine as long as you can tighten it properly in the printer and the ABL is close enough to the bed. Then you just change the Z offset. This is exactly what the Z offset is for.

This is an affiliate link but if you are not a fan of affiliate links you can just search on Amazon for 1mm nozzles for Creality printers. They should fit – no guarantee here – but it worked for me.

P.S. Make sure the Bowden tube is press fully into the hot end.

I thought I already replied but must have put it in the wrong place. Anytime you change the nozzle you have to adjust the Z offset. That is a standard operating procedure.

Yea I do… but -1mm is a bit extreme to me…

I have a set of feeler gauges that I use and Proterface to MDI to the zero Z. It’s pretty interesting how inaccurate the MP10’s offset is - at least on my setup.

Yea - I had to mod the Bowden fittings to allow me to shoot Cheetah. Eventually I may go direct drive…

And the term Bowden is a bit of a misnomer - Bowden cables are actually used for things like bikes:

The fittings are actually pneumatic fittings from places like SMC… Fittings | SMC Corporation of America


I used those for years on Hot Air Soldering gear from APE - my split vision system uses those since it’s all SMC pneumatic controlled motion:


A vid here:

Back in 1996, we did something that looks a lot like the Internet of Things - Amnet and the Golden Boys

The enclosure was 3D printed way back then using a large SLA machine. We eventually had stuff 3D printed in '98 using the first Stratsys FDM machines… Tey were even more picky than the current lot of 3D printers… but a lot more industrial in both the controllers and the mechanism. That sniper hot air BGA rework station is made out of 1/4" aluminum plate and weighs a ton.

I’m surprised that these modern machines like the Creality and Monoprice can even print as accurately as they do. Just wish they were a little more standardized and industrial in build…


I came across this thread as Monoprice’s website is out of nozzles. The nozzles at the Amazon link above are about 1.5 mm shorter than stock on the threaded side. Won’t that cause problems in the hotend?


I’m a little confused, but I now suspect that’s because my Ender 5 has a bed that moves up and down, so the nozzle clearance can be adjusted pretty widely. I hadn’t thought of the length of the nozzle being a significant factor, but I guess it could be on a printer that has a bed that’s fixed on the Z axis. Even so, I’m not sure I totally get it. Is it something to do with the ABL? Is the ABL so fixed that it can’t be adjusted to handle a longer nozzle?

@Ender5r Nothing you lucky Ender 5 users have to worry about! Monoprice/Malyan have used non-standard nozzles in the MP10/MA10 hotends (and no one seems to have them in supply at the moment). As @irvshapiro1 noted above, the extra 1 mm in length can be accounted for by adjust the z-offset. My concern is the the threaded side is shorter, but I just realized what was meant by:

I had thought the PTFE tube and the collar onto were fixed in place. Presumably, they can be both pushed further into the hotted to eliminate the 1.5mm gap caused by using the MK6 nozzles from Amazon.


I’ll repeat the very helpful info I was given to prevent gaps between the Bowden tube & nozzle: [LIST=1]

  • Tighten the nozzle up normally;
  • Loosen the nozzle 1 full turn;
  • Push the Bowden tube down into the hotend as far is it will go;
  • Tight the nozzle up again;
  • Run a test print & watch for leakage of filament coming from anywhere except the end of the nozzle. [/LIST] This technique has worked flawlessly for me.