I am trying to print a 22 Long Riffle ammo box Bottom (Printables) and I have some weird layer issues. In the pics there 2 prints that both looked bad so I stopped the print job. It is happening on the front right side of the printer. on the thicker of the 2, i set it up to print the long side front to back. on the thinner of the 2, i set it up so the long side was printing from left to right.
There is some kind of layer shift i am guessing. The next 2 pics are from the opposite side of each so you will hopefully be able to see how well it printed.
Any suggestions on what to check or adjust. I made sure the bed was level before I started printing each one. I wanted to print the case with Jayo Marble PLA but that stuff just wouldn’t print half way decent no matter what I tried.
Ender 3 S1 Plus
CHEP Profile Ver3.2_FFV5.0_ExtraFast(0.28).curaprofile (Filament Friday on youtube)
Popbit White PLA
Print Temp: 210c
Bed Temp: 60c
Need anything else, please let me know.
Thanks in advance,
Personally I would try a different profile such as the standard Cura 0.20 profile. Chep’s profiles are generally good but his extra fast maybe to fast for what your trying to print. To save time and filament just try printing the lid with a normal speed 0.20 profile.
Thanks for your time Gramps,
I used to call my grandfather on my mother’s side Gramps when he was alive. Boy I miss him. He was like my father because my father died 7 months before I was born. Last night I sliced it and printed it standing on end, long ways up with supports, on the front left corner of the bed. It came out OK with just a tiny portion in one of the corners was a messed up but it will do. It’s for my 8 year old grandson for a Christmas present. It holds 200 hundred rounds and I have enough rounds to fill it. Anyways, This morning I switched out the heat block set and changed out the wheels on the bed. They looked a little worn and there was a slight wobble. I have been trying to work on it some more but with the wife home there are too many OTHER things to do lol. I’ll post again later today or tonight.
I had a heck of a time trying to level the bed. After going around the bed leveling it with a sheet of paper, it wouldn’t even print low enough for the filament to stick. Before I started having problems, the Z was at -215. Now i am printing the hinges and latches for the case, I had to lower the Z to -350 and the leveling wheel are almost falling off. I used a bed level test and it either wouldn’t stick or it was smashed so now I am at a total loss as to what is going on.
You always want to print in the middle of the bed, auto arrange in the slicer will accomplish this for you. Sounds like you’re printing in one corner unless I’m reading your post wrong.
After you took your bed all apart did you reset your Z offset to 0 (zero) in the firmware, should be able to so this from the screen. When starting from scratch with bed leveling which your are doing by replacing the wheels and hot end. You need to start from scratch.
This video might help you, he also has some other good videos on bed leveling.
I reset the printer to factory after I changed out the wheels and today I completely uninstalled Cura and re-installed it. Figured if I am going to start from scratch with the printer, I might as well do it with Cura. I was on 5.5 but now it is on 5.6… I gave up on that ammo case and I am printing a completely different one. After leveling it over and over and starting the print job, making adjustments after it started printing then stopping it and starting it again a few times, and now it is printing pretty good once again. I was getting frustrating at times but leaving it alone and going back later helped. lol
I forgot to mention that I have watched that video and I have been subscribed to that channel since I received my S1 Plus.
Thank you for your reply. I switched out the bed wheels day before yesterday and I checked for wobble and there was a little so i snugged the back 2. The gantry wheel are snug but movable with fingers but not so loose that they spin freely. It is printing really goodly or well now or however that should be said. lol. There are still a few spots towards the middle of the bed that look a little thin or wavy but that is very minor compared to what it was doing. Nothing that is going to make it unusable or cruddy to look at so I am happy with it. Thanks to you and Gramps for your suggestions! It’s really cool to have some place to go for stuff like this. Too bad there isn’t some kind of video chat so the ones who are having problems can chat “live” for help. Maybe Irv can invent something like that here. lol
Try running a backlit straight-edge over the bed and look for gaps. Sometimes the beds aren’t as flat as they should be.
With life getting in the way and many things to do, I ended up removing the bed and adjusting the wheels and putting it all back together again, I was finally able to get it to print just about as pefect as a 3D printer can print. I read the post By Gramps about the lack of activity so I came back and noticed I never replied to this post. Seems that if no one has an issue that they do other things and forget about visiting here and I am guilty of that myself. I have been working on a music player for Raspberry Pi and found Volumio and have been updating the tags on my over 5000 songs and trying to get a Thingiverse user to modify his Raspberry Pi Jukebox to fit a 7 inch touchscreen. Here is the thingie, Volumio Jukebox with Touchscreen LCD and Pi-DAC Pro by inverted1 - Thingiverse I sent him the schematic for the touchscreen but haven’t gotten any replies from him after I explained I was trying different things to get the screen to fit but have been unsuccessful. I have OpenSCAD and he does have the scad file there but I am not brainy enough to even begin to modify it. Anyways, enough rambling from this old man.
I gather that the touchscreen you want to use has different dimensions than the “HDMI 4 Pi: 7” Display w/Touchscreen 1024x600 w/ Mini Driver" that the Thingiverse design uses? The mount for the HDMI 4 Pi looks like a simple slot; something that looks hackable in TinkerCad. What changes do you need made?
I needed it modified to the dimensions of the screen glass that are found in the following schematic…https://datasheets.raspberrypi.com/display/7-inch-display-mechanical-drawing.pdf Not only does the body need to be modified but also the top and back covers.
Thought I would come back and add a little to my post. I ended up saying the heck with it and printed the case. After using a whole spool of filament, It came out too small. So I chopped it up in Tinkercad so it had just the part that the screen fit in and I had to expand it to 205 mm. so now I am waiting for another spool of the same color to match the speaker shelves I remixed for the speaker system I bought. I am using a temporary Pi 3 case that will allow the DAC to fit in it and I went from Volumio to Moode because I did not want to spend the money for the subscription and Moode was mush easier to use once I figured it out. I spent hours correcting the tags and covers in my library so everything is pretty much uniform.