Folks, the attached file was used in the video “3d Printing Two Top Slicers Compared”.
[video=youtube_share;Pl0z2w6N7Ro]3d Printing Two Top Slicers Compared - YouTube
The attached PDF file follows. Click on it to save to your computer and open.
Enjoy. Irv
image_857.pdf (268 KB)
Thanks Irv. Will definitely look at it.
What he said ?
My biggest discovery of the day coming out of this video is the color scheme setting in Cura. I don’t know if it’s the default setting, but heretofore I’ve always had that setting on material which makes it difficult to distinguish support interfaces etc. Seeing the Cura multi-color scheme in today’s video spurred me to find the setting to colorize by line type, which will be very helpful for the kind of printing I’ve been doing.
Thanks!
I will find that very useful when I can sit down and concentrate. I am having a little reprieve from 3-d printing all the time as my new fan for heat creep and my thread in thermistor have not arrived. I lost my credit card bankcard whatever and health id so I had to take care of all that. Getting used to ii my id was stolen for my visa card twice while on holiday and the Dominican Republic doesn’t even have a postal service. We had a crappy little cell phone that ate up card time like a little monster. It was fun.
I forgot that I had cancelled my cards and tried to use Amazon to order some very interesting looking filament. Glowing revues on Amazon even with ender 3’s and no direct drive.It’s a TPU I will give the link to anyone interested. $37 Can / kilo delivered to my door. Amazon.ca
Thank you Irv for the video and the pdf infos!!! Definitely it’s upon on the user preference of which slicer will he use or likes etc. I believe that everyone here should know his printer. And by saying " knows" i mean the knowledge of what his/hers printer is capable to do depending of the controller language first and then mechanically.
I used to use Cura for long time up to the latest version, tuning it to the very last setting on , getting super smooth surfaces. When i tried to change something on the Cura settings, the surfaces were terrible !!! Change it back and continues to print terrible surfaces. Tried out PS , same settings as in Cura, amazing prints, changing a same setting as in Cura, prints still super, change it back, prints were as like before smooth.
This change did not affect PS slice results as in Cura. Change here, change there and PS responds. Cura has some responding problems. I still use Cura only for specific prints. For my applications, PS works as i like to work.
This is my personal experience for both slicers in my DIY printers using Duet WiFi controllers with RepRap language. To others, Cura might work super WOW on their printers that use Marlin, Klipper, or whatever else.
If only PS could print over USB.
I think this could be " fixed " !
Wouldn’t that be nice.
The technology involved in making your printing project be accessible and controllable from your telephone is getting a little “Jetson” for me. I do appreciate simplicity too. I do realize that with what we have available now very cheaply we can connect the cam to a program on a web site page dedicated to running the camera and communicating.
I’m just starting with Cura, so I joined to access that great pdf (Couldn’t be better). I found you after floundering around trying to get Ociprint and Klipper on a RPi-4 and was immediately captivated by your teaching style. Great work and great teaching. Yeah, I’m learning and an old dog at that!
You’re in good company. There’s a number of us old farts here.
I am one of the old farts 
I Noticed that Prusa sliced prints are always quick then Cura ones. Even if I set the same and other settings matched as far as I could. What I did notice is that the nozzle movement with the Prusa sliced prints assuming print are the same for both. I just think that it mainly comes down to a different ‘slicing algorithms’
That seems odd. If the same speeds are chosen for both slicers it seems odd that 1 would print significantly faster than the other. How big a differential are we talking?
I wish to master Prusa slicer and since I’m an old fart too with limited mental faculties I concentrate it and don’t try to learn every other slicer unless I have to.
I had a very humiliating experience happen to me lately. My daughter lured me over to her place to see my 7 month old grandson and she attacked me with a pair of sheep shears and remodelled my coiffure. I’m not brave enough to post my new photo yet, I’m still getting used to this new image. I am no longer Gandelph.
[size=72px]?rotflmao!![/size]
This needs a lot of caveats as there is a lot of differences between the default Prusa and Cura and it does depend on what model is being printed but I would say between 10% and 20% and I am sure I have not covered every option and there are a couple of odd differences.
On the Basic string test in Prusa the cooling fan does not come on, but in Cura it does. Both have minimum layer time of 5 seconds and min speed of 10mm/s but it looks as if Cura pauses to ensure the min layer time but Prusa does not which makes a big difference.
With similar profiles, I cannot say they are the same, Prusa prints almost no stringing but Cura does not (Micro-swiss DD and all metal hot end) It looks as if there are setting in Cura that is causing the filament to be dragged which which did not occur with a stock setup. Again looking at as it prints it looks as if cura moves travels to the next tower from the closest point where Prusa starts at the back so the wipe is in the infill. However with Prusa this caused a problem in an overhang test which required travel to the overhang. When the angle got above about 50deg there was a build up of filament which solidified and the nozzle would hit on its return until the print failed. I guess Prusa wipe was more in the air than on the previous layer.
Also travel speeds and acceleration speeds are heavy game changers here.
Also worth to mention are things like combing, random z seam, no movement over walls and the infill percentage. All these need to be equally handled before comparing.
In the end it is just the best path finding, which probably gives a few seconds advantage in a big print, but is it worth the try or to swap. I don´t think so. 3D printing is an art and painting the same picture ten times, gives you ten results and take a different amount of time, even so here the painter is an robot and the variance comes from the preconfigured order of movements.
To compare slicer results/speeds you need to set all features equal and that is next to impossible.
In addition to that (when comparing printers, too) the firmware has a speed limiter per axis, so the same profile would be fast like hell on printer one and slow on printer, too, because the firmware took the weak frame into account.
In the end more or less all printers these days are the same. It does not matter if it is 2000$ or 160$. Even the cheap ones have a sturdy frame these days. The only real difference in price are stepper drivers, filament sensors, 32bit boards, touch display and stuff. The user experience is different, but the print results are very much the same. Differences only come from the type of printer. FDM or Resin? Shaking bed, CoreXY or one of the others.
When it comes to slicers it is just about UI and how do you feel about it. Feature wise they are more or less on par. Even if not, there are plugins to add the missing features and the result is again just the UI. Like paint on custom supports vs click on support and so on.
