Prusaslicer filament change. M600

I thought my Marlin 1.9.1.x wasn’t working because it was not activated but I have found out in Arduino that it is. I wonder if it is the fault of my only having an 8 bit board.
Does anyone have any other ideas.

I’ve used filament change in Prusaslicer before and it worked just fine. It was on my Ender 3 v2 with the 4.2.2 board which I think is 32 bit.

The 4.2.x boards are all 32 bit.

I don’t understand what you are getting at. I just want to know why Marlin isn’t recognizing the M600 command which I have seen in a text editor that it does insert. Prusa is inserting the code but Marlin breezes past it.

As a programmer, my 1st thought is that Marlin is ignoring the M600 because it doesn’t recognize the command, because it doesn’t have the code to handle it. That is likely because there simply isn’t room for that code in the firmware of the 8-bit board.

The answer is straightforward; install a 32-bit board. I realize that may be something you don’t feel comfortable doing, but perhaps your techie friend can help?

Why not revert to Cura, do a post processing command to pause, change filament and tell it to continue. I have used one of several such commands to change color of filament.

@Lowteck our Montreal friend prefers PrusaSlicer :wink: but I believe the same technique can be used with it too.

I really have to get back to learning IM. It does seem to be more advanced.

In PrusaSlicer you slice the object then slide the slider do the layer you want to change filament on and click the little right arrow on the slider. That’s it and then when printing it will stop at that layer, move the printhead off the print. Tell you to change filament. When you have it loaded you click ok and it will purge some filament then continue printing.

I agree with @roon4660 until I decided to try Ideamaker I used PrusaSlicer and just couldn’t get a handle on Cura at all, even when I was just starting out that is how I ended uo with PS. I have sliced the same item in both slicers with the same layer height and Prusaslicer was faster by at least 10% and sometimes more.

I could never get the hang of PS. I couldn’t understand how things were supposed to be organized. To me, it just seemed that there were bits and pieces of the settings stored all over the place. I would go, “Who thought it was a good idea to put that setting under that menu? What on Earth was the logic?”.

I’m like that with Cura. Prusa seems more logical to me and I don’t like Cura’s interface at all.

I’m obstinate enough to try an end run around my 8 bit board problem. I just have to find a g code script that works to insert ( I hope ). My printer is working so well it just isn’t worth it at the moment.

I think for the price of Creality boards I’d just buy a 4.2.7 board and get the added benefits.

Me too, but I have no issue installing it. I don’t think @roon4660 is quite as comfortable with it as we are. That’s why I mentioned his tech friend.

I went to Marlin Code page and found this. Filament Change | Marlin Firmware I am just wondering if I insert the commands longhand instead of it being set by the configuration h file perhaps it will try to run it.

Now that I looked at this I saw it will ignore M600 but I am wondering if it would read an M603. I am testing it out now. I am printing a test cube that should stop at 3mm up. I bet it won’t.

I will certainly get my friend to help me install it. Is the 4.2.7 board the right one for my needs?

I didn’t expect them to be $68 can. I see the one I have installed was nearly that price in 2020 when I bought it so I shouldn’t complain.

I can hardly wait to turn my Ender upside down to install it…my favourite Ender 3 pro gripe.

Out of curiosity are these old boards useful for doing anything geeky? I have an Arduino uno that I had to buy to flash my original Ender 3 pro board and then for a reason I have since forgotten I bought the one I have now. Maybe they would be fun to play with.

A 4.2.7 board would suit your printer very well. Among other things, it makes it possible to upgrade firmware without having to compile. And say goodbye to the Arduino IDE. It can’t handle 32 bit firmware. But, you shouldn’t need to compile at all. Just download a firmware file, copy it as the only file on an SD card, insert it into printer while it’s off, then power on.