That’s “Cali Cat - The Calibration Cat” which is “is designed to be the purrfect initial calibration and benchmarking print.” It can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1545913.
Cheers
I just thought of this. Along these lines, one way the model might “not fit” but appear to is if you have a support (build plate adhesion such as skirt, brim, or raft) turned on that wants to print outside of the defined build surface.
Cheers
Hello to all,
I am getting very frustraded when printing from a raft to a skirt, and keeping the bed stick on the first layer. I need to find a group that I can meet up with in person here in orange county to help me this printer and why it dose not seem to work correctly. some prints seem to work and others just fall apart or stringy or the first layer just dose not want to stick to the bed, I have adjusted many times, used the auto level, manualy play with the distrance of the nozzle to the bed, even try to put the glue stick on seconds before it starts to print. I really would love it if someone down here in south orange county could meet up and let me know what the hell is going on and why I have some many problems.
@shocky47 I see in another thread you are looking at adding a glass bed to the MP10. I have a Mini and the coated metal plate works fine. I think your issues lie elsewhere.
Did you get the printer to successfully print the first layer test file you pictured in post #13 of this thread? It looks like you had both an uneven bed and that the z-axis offset is not set correctly.
Cheers!
I do not know if it is possible to video chat with you but if we could that would be great one day so that you might be able to see the settings on the screen and the printing at the same time.
Z offset is the distance between the hot end and the Z home position on 3D printers. Ideally, this would match the distance between the hot end and the print bed, as well. However, differences in limit switch position, homing probe, and manual bed leveling introduce errors. The Z-offset adjustment can usually fix these. Unfortunately, the manual is not clear on this issue. The screen you want is shown on page 14 of the manual (“Bed Level Correction”). Use the “Close” button to make the number in the screen more negative and move the nozzle closer to the print bed. (If the nozzle is hitting the print bed, use the “Far” button to make a gap for filament to flow out of the nozzle and onto the bed).
Print a first layer print (like the one you showed in post 13) and if the filament is not sticking to the bed, move closer to the bed and try again. Our host has a good explanation here: Z Offset Adjustment for Perfect 3d Print Adhesion - YouTube (I started it at the 5 minute mark to skip some explanations to get to the “How To” part, but I do recommend that you watch the whole thing!)
All that said, if you can’t wait to print some things, use a raft. I did for a while because making things is so much fun!
Hope this helps!
Cheers
P.S. – I am not setup for video. You might also try the Facebook users group for the MP10. Search for “Monoprice MP10 (Malyan MA10) 3D Printer User Group”.
have not tried to print the cat yet but just order up about five different colors as well of other filement but had to send one back since they sent it in 3mm instead of 1.75