PLA versus PETG

Just thought some folks would benefit from a mistake I made. I designed (freecad) some garden stakes for a friend and printed them in PLA. I knew about the difference in temperature-resistance between PLA and PETG but thought: “they aren’t in a hot car; they will be ok”. WRONG!! See attached photo that shows what happens to identical, 13" tall, stakes (same color, same manufacturer) on an 85-degree day , outdoors, in direct sunlight. It only took about an hour for the PLA stake to wilt and bend over. I hope this helps somebody. [ATTACH=JSON]{“data-align”:“none”,“data-size”:“medium”,“data-attachmentid”:10714}[/ATTACH]

Yep, overall, PETG is much better outdoors than PLA. For 1 thing, PETG is way more UV resistant. That said, there are some new PLA formulations that are challening both PETG & ASA for outdoor use.

Onwards and upwards\

I still prefer using ABS for stuff like that. Beside the material features it is cheap, too

Last year I started a long term test using TPU. I printed white screw covers for my satellite disk pole mount and they turned from white into pee yellow within 12 month., but beside that they look and feel fine, even so they are exposed to the sun and heat all day.

My first and only PETG roll is still unopened in storage :smiley: Until I find a way to convert my TronXY X5 into an all metal version, but I can’t find proper heat pipes.

I think ABS is a fine material, & I love that it is cheap, but PETG & ASA are more resistant to UV. Interesting info re: TPU. I’m not sure why you are waiting for an all metal version of your TronXY X5 before printing PETG.

Interesting information, thanks for posting.

Because the print temperature range is 230°C to 250°C and PTFE starts melting and fuming toxic shit at 230°C already. I used the original heat pipe for about 3 years and even so I printed at 225 at max, the initial overshooting when caused the PTFE to slowly melt and shrink the opening towards the nozzle. During my odyssey of just increasing the temperature for printing PLA instead of replacing the heat pipe it got more and more narrow. So I extended the “live” by about 8 months brute force heating, before the clogging was permanent.

Printing PTFE would destroy the working hotend very quickly and I prefer a permanent working printer.

My understanding is that Capricorn XS tubing (the dark blue 1) withstands temperatures over 300C.

Don’t know. I would prefer an All-Metal-Hotend as less parts need less maintenance.

I could print PETG with my AnetA8, but I would need to modify it. It would mean to swap over the glass bed from the TronXY and install a part cooling fan.