Glad it worked. 1 question: did you mean 2mm or 0.2mm? 2mm seems like a lot, like some calibration is needed.
Actually, I tried -0.2, then -0.5, then raised it to -2.0. Working much better, but can’t explain why such a large offset was needed. I sent it to the printer before starting the print using “M206 Z-2.0”.
Perhaps I should explain the step numbers a little better. There are buttons to press for -X, +C, -Y, +Y, -Z, +Z. Below those are buttons to select 0.1, 1.0, 10.0. If you press one of the + or - buttons, it will move the indicated axis in that direction by the amount selected by the number buttons.
-2.0mm??? Really? That should move the Z axis closer to the bed, not away. Can you confirm that the 2mm did move the nozzle away from the bed?
Most definitely. Away from the bed and -2.0. I read the definition of the G code and it seem that it moves the origin, not the extruded. So - is correct. But why so much?
I just noticed a Z offset on the Print dialog inside MatterControl. I’ve got a 1.5 hour print going. But when it finishes I’ll try that control on some small prints.
Thanks for the confirmation. That’s excellent.
In your place, I would definitely experiment with that setting. Here’s a file you can use, and a video that will help explain how to read the squares: [U]Best method for 3D printer bed levelling - YouTube
What I do is load up the 1 square, then multiply it 3 times, placing 1 square in each corner of the bed. Then I print the squares. As the video shows, squares that have lines that are separate (like vertical blinds) indicate the nozzle is too far from the bed. Squares where the lines are joined, but the surface is rough, indicate the nozzle is too close to the bed. Squares where the lines are joined and the surface is smooth and even indicate a nozzle that’s at the correct height. As each square prints I adjust the leveling knob for that corner.
As I’m leveling the bed, I may have to reprint several times. As each corner gets dialed in, I remove it from the slicer, so I don’t waste time & filament printing it again. When there are no squares left in the slicer, I’m done 
20mmx20mmx1.zip (333 Bytes)
Thanks, I’ll give it a try. Marlin has built-in manual leveling. It positions to various places (can do 3 points, 4, 6, or 9 I believe). Then you place paper under it and press up/down buttons until you get a friction fit. It then stores the data and uses it to print. It’s done after manual leveling gets you close. This compensates for non-flat beds.
I’m familiar with the Marlin be levelling. It’s a good start. The square I uploaded & video I linked are for after you do the paper leveling. They do the final dialing in. Printing squares in each corner of the bed, at the very least, is a good way to verify the paper leveling.
I did the paper leveling and it is too close. The cubes should be helpful.
Exactly. Paper leveling has the flaw that what is a good friction to 1 person is too loose, or too tight, to another. The squares don’t depend on a person’s interpretation.
Well, I spent many hours playing with those squares. Must have printed them 15 times. But I can now report excellent results. Thank you.
now I am experiencing another issue. I can’t help but think it is something simple I just need to learn. I have tried with multiple parts with identical results. Using MatterColtrol slicer, whenever I activate any added support feature (tried supports and brim, separately) the slicer generates no layers (no G code). And even if I tire the feature back off, it still won’t generate G code. I have to delete the part and reload it from the STL file to recover. Any idea what I might be missing?
Sorry, I don’t know MC, so no idea.
It’s pretty nice how well the squares work, isn’t it? They really do help dial in the bed level.
Yes. Used in conjunction with the internal leveling of the Marlin FW which compensates for unlevel surfaces, the squares really help to fine tune things. And the beauty is that they are showing what the printer is actually doing, not some arbitrary spacing which may or may not be just right for the printer. But I need get quicker at it (12 hours is too long). Thanks again for the pointer.
Today I started a new print and noticed something weird. After 2 days of almost constant printing, I turned the printer off over night (same as the day before) and when starting a new print this morning the bed was about right on the left, but it was so close on the right that the extruder could not get any filament ejected on that side. I let it go through the first layer and the second layer started extruding evenly across. I hope it doesn’t need to be leveled for every print, or every day.
Another thing is that the overall accuracy seems to be a little off (inconsistent). I printed a large nut (apx 3.5" across) with threads, but the threads were not consistent and sort of half there. I was a bit surprised because I printed it with 0.1mm layers. I’ll try again later with 0.2m layers, but expected thin layers to help with accuracy. I’m hoping this is just due to the cheap ANET A8 design, in which case it should improve as I continue printing more parts to improve the printer and make it more rigid…
I, too, have noticed that bed level can change after thermal cycling, although I have found that the adjustments needed are pretty minor. I usually print 1 round of 4 squares, then only have to print 1 or 2 squares in a 2nd print. I have a BL Touch coming from AliExpress so it can take care of checking the level before every print. It should be quicker, and more accurate (I hope).
What printer do you have? Is it physically ready for a BL Touch to mount, or do you need to design something to mount it? Does your FW already contain support for BL Touch? And what about your controller board?
I haven’t yet checked into what would be needed to add it to the ANET A8, but suspect I’d need to upgrade to a 32 bit controller board and Marlin 2.0. I’m now using the 8 bit board with Marlin 1.1.9.1.
I have an Ender 5 Pro. The kit I ordered is from Creality, so it includes a moutn for the BL Touch. If it didn’t, I have some plate aluminum I would use to make a mount. My bigger concern is to study up on how to connect a BL Touch to a Creality 1.1.5 control board, and to update my firmware to work with it.
From watching a YOUTUBE video (actually on DrVax) it appears the Ender is pre-equipped for a BL Touch, so you should be all set. That video went through all the steps to add the BL Touch. I can send you a link later if you can’t easily find it. Just let me know.
The only BL Touch video I know of from DrVAX is an upgrade to the Ender 3 V2. That’s a pretty different machine from mine, which is much more similar to the Ender 3 (V1).
Yes, that is the one I was referencing. Is the Ender 5 much better than the Ender 3? I’m setting this machine up for my grandson, but it’s been so much fun I’m considering one for myself, I’ve been looking at the Ender 3 and the Artillery Sidewinder X1. Maybe I should look at the Ender 5?
If I had it to do again, I would change 2 things, which of course adds some cost: [LIST=1]