Ain’t that the truth! When I was struggling with my clogging issues, I had to clean out the hot end several times, including using nozzle cleaning wires and atomic pulls.
Cheers
I probably need more coffee but why remove the glass base?
Thanks!
Edit: Fixed quotation
Exactly . I will remove the glass base when I need to. I just need a better solution for stickum than hairspray. I like the glass bed. It will certainly never be removed in one piece. It could last for the life of the machine unlike all the other fancy solutions.
Actually I don’t think I’ll bother taking a video of it today I need to try to upgrade my Marlin.
You can leave it in place and never remove it. . The question arose a few days ago about getting a print off when the glass is still hot, a comment was made to put it in the refrigerator. I have never done that, but I do find one of the best ways to clean it is to remove and put in the sink and wash with hot water and regular dish soap, I usually use a scotch brite sponge and can get any residue off quickly. Then dry with a paper towel. You can also use both sides of a glass plate. The Creality ones have a special surface on one side, plain glass on the other.
Speaking of glass beds, mine cracked overnight. I went to bed with a large flat print going on, which finished sometime during the night. Apparently the print was so well adhered to the layer of UHU stick that, as it cooled and shrank, it pulled on the glass enough to break it. Oh well, maybe it’s time to get a real glass bed, or perhaps one of the PEI or other bed surfaces.
My ender 3 pro doesn’t fit easily into my sink. Maybe the bath tub would work. Lot’s of soap and hot water!
I think I would be tempted to remove the bed from the printer and take it to the sink. My concern would be the bed heater around water.
Thanks for the context!
I ordered two of these for my Ender 5s. Still unopened in the box. These are to replace two that I have this is the link to the official Creality store $ 23 for Ender 3 or 5. https://www.creality3dofficial.com/collections/accessories/products/creality-new-upgraded-heated-bed-build-plate-surface?variant=31306426122313
Here is a good you-tube video from Michael at Teaching Tech, it is a couple of years old, but I’m sure there are many others you cna watch. Ender 3 build surface comparison: Stock vs glass vs Easy Peelzy magnetic sheet - YouTube
I just ordered an Ultrabase glass bed. Hopefully, the slower heat up time is not onerous.
I am astonished how divided the “experts” are on whether to heat the bed for PLA. Personally I usually don’t, but when I have problems I’m trying to reconcile I do.
Since my Ender 5 came with the heated bed, I just naturally used it. I haven’t even tried PLA without it. I wonder if not using heat with the UHU stick would improve the removeability.
Give it a try. I never use it when I can do without it.
I always heat the bed for PLA, currently at 60c. When I have tried PETG I usually go to 80c. As far as the heat time, I don’t have a problem, but I have done two things. First my gcode is modified to heat the bed and hot end at the same time. I see a lot of people do one at a time, so you have to wait until the nozzle or bed is up to temp before starting the other. The other is that I have replaced all of my heater cartridges with a 50w unit instead of the 30w stock.
Nice setup! I agree with the Creality glass bed. If you get a good first layer it will stick. I very rarely use rafts and never brims and have very good success with PLA, now I getting preparred fo
I’m trying to find the session where they were speaking about glass plate adhesives. The dissolved glue stick sounded interesting. I can’t believe how expensive magigoo and ugu glue are. I don’t even know which variation would be the best for me. I do pla but have a roll of PETG I shall try when my printer problem is solved.
I was getting too good adhesion using pure UHU stick on the glass (e.g. the cracked glass plate). This last time, I put some UHU on the glass, then use a wet Kleenex to spread it around. I dried on the heated bed to a very, very thin haze of UHU, which seemed to work quite well for a test print.
Will uhu dissolve in water? That sounds more economical too and change very little the distance from the nozzle.
It dissolves in water very well.
It/s amazing that it stuck so well your print warped and broke the glass. Was it PLA? I’ve never seen pla warp like that.