Another not sticking to bed issue - Ender 3 V2

Got my Ender 3 v2 (4.2.2 board) a few weeks ago and am really struggling to get the PLA to stick to the bed.

Messed around for a few days with getting no where and then decided to buy a bltouch. Fitted and installed the smith3d firmware E3V2-2.0.x.16-5x5-Slow-100121
and ran the calibration. Z offset set to -0.20

I then did a print of the filament holder which came out perfectly. No sticking. Woo hooo. All my problems sorted…or so I thought.

Cleaned the glass with soap/water and then ipa. Now a few days later I am trying to print the raspberry pi 4 case so I can use it with octopi and no mater what I do it’s not sticking. Checked alignment again and all looks good.

I see a TY video was just been posted on sticking issues. I’ve already cleaned the glass and rechecked everything. One other suggestion is to use magigoo which I have just ordered and will see if it helps. I’m not convinced.

Could it be a problem with the firmware? I’m getting a bit confused over that. Watched too many YT videos and read too many posts. Some people say they fixed things with compiling their own firmware?

Is this the correct FW: E3V2-2.0.x.16-5x5-Slow-100121

I’m printing with a bed temp of 50C and nozzle at 200C.

The Magigoo will almost certainly solve the issue. It’s pretty amazing actually. To be more sure, apply it to a cold bed, then heat & print. After the print finishes do not try to take the print off right away… patience grasshopper :). Let the bed cool right down & the print should just lift off the bed.

BTW, I stopped using IPA to clean. I just use water as the last cleaner, often under a running faucet.

First, Magigoo will make your life easier. However, a perfectly prepared and leveled print surface does not need print adhesive.

I just published a video about this topic.

[video=youtube_share;4dHbwEMP438]3d Printer Tips Print Not Sticking - YouTube

When printing PLA with the Ender 3 v2 I use a bed temp of 60c. I usually on have sticking problems on small parts without much surface area for them I use a Elmer’s Glue Stick. Every 6-8 prints I will wash the build plate with Dawn & warm water scrubbing it with a sponge that is only used for cleaning the bed plate. In between prints I wipe the build plate with IPA.

Have also had issues with some brands of PLA sticking reliably to the bed.

Thanks for the all the suggestions.

I’ve ordered some magigoo so will see how it goes. In the meantime I have been playing around with some settings. I’ve changed my Z offset from -0.20 to -0.30 and started printing the pi case and guess what, it seems to be sticking. First later is done so holding thumbs that might have been the fix. I’ll run a few most tests after this and try 60C and then also with magigoo and see what the results are.

I agree with everyone. Getting your prints to stick is as much an art as all science. I found the bed needs to be 60c for PLA, 85C for PETG and ABS is really tough, but I have used 100+.
A bed adhesive will usually get you better results, what you use is what you have had success with. If you can always wait until the bed is at room temperature or close to it. A good adhesive will hold tight when hot and release when cold. Then you get into your different build surfaces. Keep experimenting and see what works for you.

OK, if you haven’t yet, I recommend doing this procedure to get your Z Offset correct: [U]Best method for 3D printer bed levelling - YouTube

[SIZE=8px]#bed leveling #hobby hoarder #best method #ender5r #1-layer squares[/SIZE][/U]

Ideally. Unfortunately, I’ve broken a couple of glass plates trying to remove prints that were adhered with glue stick.

Well, there’s your problem! Your printer is feeling neglected. It is imperative to print something every day or else things can get ugly.

On a more practical note, PLA brands are not all the same. Try raising to the bed to 60C (as noted above). Also, try using a 0.3 mm first layer thickness if not already. Slowing down the print speed of the first few layers will also help. Some benefit from glue or hairspray. A partially clogged nozzle can also cause adhesion problems.

As Dave W. said: Welcome to the Art of 3D printing!


I have had many more problems removing PETG. Actually taken hunks out of the glass. This is why I quit using the coated side of the Creality glass plates, it seems very prone to coming off with any filament if you get it stuck too well. I print a lot of functional parts where the bottom layer appearance is not critical, I just want it to stick, so if I error it is usually too close and it looks like one of Dr. Vax’s bad prints.

I have no issues with printing plain glass at all, but when the room temperature is lowr than 20°C there is no chance. Even a brim starts to curl from the inside (!!) while printing it. It looks like this famous opera building. Bulk next to bulk, rendering the brim useless as it has no contact with the print at all. Well, if you get that far, as the curling is so bad the print head rips it off, drags it and causes a mess.

All caused just by the temperature and the draft in the room caused by the printers heater. As soon as I turn on the room heating and close the door, all problems are gone.

This is something you should never leave out of your calculation and still yet gets ignored by many. Outdoor temperatures have an impact on indoor printing.