Washing my glass plate in the sink isn’t an option since it is completely fused to my printer bed. Unless I want to wash my printer too.
I have an ender 3 pro. I used to be a general contractor (licensed in California) though I’m a Canadian. I was an illegal alien actually. Spent most of the 80’s in California.
I didn’t think the Ender 3 had a glass plate fused to the bed. Perhaps it’s just stuck from being there for a while?
When I lived in St. Barth, French West Indies I used to do a lot of wood work.
It wasn’t fused at first and then suddenly it was and I have no explanation why, but you are welcome to come here to Montreal and try to pry it loose. It’s impossible without breaking it.
That’s too bad.
I really like diluted glue for glass print beds. I use the DRVAX recommended Magigoo (probably just rebottled Elmer’s). After I remove a print, I’ll spray a little water on the cooled bed to re-spread the remaining glue to print again or to clean the bed if there isn’t enough glue is left. I was unnerved at first because the brim or part will audibly “snap” as the bed cools.
On the other hand, for me a PEI sheet just sticks, once you get the z-offset set correctly. Print, remove part, print again … no hassle. Parts with large surface areas in contact with the bed stick too well sometimes.
Keep us apprised of how it goes and what works for you!
Cheers
I wonder if I will ever know why one minute it wasn’t fused and then it was. It wasn;t like I coated the bed with super glue or anything like it. The bed was clean. Complete mystery. No one else talks about this. It is supposed to be detachable.
The glue stick formula sounds very inviting. I hate the smell of hair spray it reminds me of the early sixties and trying to make out in the back seat of my old junk heaps. I never liked the smell of hair spray and I detested girdles.
Are you still having problems with clogging? I went through a period where the MP10 Mini would repeatedly clog. I finally figured out I was leaving the filament resting in the hotted for too long. I fixed it by putting more filament retraction in the end g-code and by properly removing the filament when changing to a new filament or recovering after an emergency stop. Make sure the hotend is heated to printing temperature then manually push a little filament out through the nozzle before withdrawing it.
Cheers
I think that is a good idea, but that is not the problem I have today. It starts out perfectly and clogs within minutes. All day and different filaments. Yesterday everything printed great.
You know how the filament sometimes will ooze out of the nozzle while everything’s heating up to print? I fixed that by simply pulling the filament back a millimetre or two by hand.
I have to update my Marlin. I know my version 1.1.8 has a lot of quirks. That is so strange I was sure I had 1.1.6. I should be able to enable the M600 command in G code, That is my goal but this version I have is too quirky. When I stop a print it wants to start again. Then I have to simmer it down so it will work again. I don’t want to update to a 32 bit processor if this is enough.
Udually I get exceptionally good prints from my dear little Ender 3 pro but it does drive me to distraction when it doesn’t work properly.
1.1.8 is the version that caused my Y axis to stop working in the middle of a print.
roon4660 - have you tried to slide your putty knife slowly under the glass to see if you can get it loose? My guess is you have. What printer do you have and what is the surface under the glass?
Could you post a picture?
Tomorrow I will post a video to explain how my glass is welded. But not now. I need to relax my tortured brain.
How could you think that you step on my toes, you have been so nice.
I have made a promise and I will keep it if I can. But not tonight.