No the older ender 3 v2’s have the 4.2.2 controller board and the newer ones have the 4.2.7 boards and they do require different firmware.
Talk about pulling hair (of which I have very little 
)!!! Tonight I was trying to print out printbed supports for my Ender 5 ([U]https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3479330[/U]) and they just wouldn’t print right.
I was using Cura 4.7.1. It would print part of the support at 1 corner of the bed, then, as it moved on to another section near the middle of the bed the filament wouldn’t adhere. Could not figure out what was going on. I had just run the “Five 1-layer squares” bed level check & it was great.
Finally, in desperation, I went back to Plater view (I have no idea why they don’t call it “Platter”). I zoomed in very close where the strut meets the bed and, guess what, I saw daylight between the strut and the bed: very, very little, but it was there. And this was despite having “drop to bed” enabled. I tried rotation with Snap enabled, but it didn’t work: there was always a gap. Finally, I disabled Snap and carefully rotated until I could no longer see a gap. This time it printed all the way diagonally across the bed (the piece is pretty long). It still wasn’t perfect, but it’s a lot better.
For shits & giggles, I loaded up PrusaSlicer 2.3.0alpha2 and imported the strut. I used the “Rotate Face To Bed” feature and it seemed to flop it down perfectly. PS is looking more & more attractive every day.
That is weird. Never have had that problem before. Usually drop to bed will do just that. Hummm… Will have to keep a eye out if that happens to me. Thanks for the info. Always learn something new here ?
That is weird. Never have had that problem before. Usually drop to bed will do just that. Hummm… Will have to keep a eye out if that happens to me. Thanks for the info. Always learn something new here ?
In the Smith3D firmware, what do the 5x5, 4x4, & 3x3 refer to?
It tells you how many probe points that it uses 5x5 is 5 rows of 5 points each so 25 points total
4x4 is 4 rows of 4 probe points so 16 points
3x3 3 rows of 3 probe points each so 9 points
The more probe points the more accurate the bed level data you get but also the longer it takes. I’m using the high speed 5x5. Only takes about 2 min. and i consider that 2 min added to my print time versus first layer problems a no brainier in my book ?
High speed means the probe needle does not get pulled up between probe points. No problem as long as your bed is even half way level. If its so bad that the needle hits the bed between probe points then you have got a really big problem with your bed.
Thanks for the info. Makes sense. And I totally agree; a few minutes at the start of a print is definitely a no brainer. Even the slow probe would be fine AFAIC. So it takes 5 min, or even 10. That’s nothing when prints go on for hours, or days even. The brackets for my deck umbrellas took 5.5 days each, and I printed 4 or them!
OK i think i know whats going on. I have a PI so don’t use a MicroSD card but I do know that when you first turn on your printer it loads among other settings the z off set for the probe into memory. I believe that depending on if you have the microSD card inserted into the printer when you first turn it on where it looks for those settings if inserted it gets them off of the MicroSD card, if not it gets them from internal memory. Now if the correct off set is stored on the microSD card and not in memory of the printer and you don’t have the SD card insert then you will have the wrong off set when the printer is turned on. Or if its the reverse then if the card is inserted then you will have the wrong off set. When you store your settings is the card insert into the printer or not? You could store the settings with the card inserted then store them again without the card inserted and then it would be correct with or without the card insert when turned on. Just make sure its the correct off set when you store it in both places otherwise it will be worng all the time.
Storing settings on the SD card is a big departure for Creality. 'Course, auto-loading firmware updates from SD card is also a departure. I’m sort of surprised they would store settings on SD card because it can lead to so much confusion. Making it possible to “export” settings to SD card, so they can be copied to other printers of the same model would make some sense, but I would hope it would be a very specific operation that would make it perfectly clear that you would not be saving to EEPROM.
It will get more and more common as more and more boards do not contain eeprom chips and substitute to SD cards, which are there anyway.
Marlin already has an option you simply turn on and the SD card is used and it is fully transparent there.
I think that’s a step backward.
Probably more an issue if you ever touch the sd card itself. Mine never leaves the printer, so it acts like a build in eeprom anyway. Actually I couldn´t even say where to look for the sd card slot on any of my commercial printers 
Only time i touch my sd card is if i decide i need to update the firmware.
Yea it does let us know how it’s going. Hope you followed what i was saying about the z-offset data being stored both on the SD card and the internal memory of your controller board.
It will be interesting yo know how much better this Ender3 v2 than my old Ender 3 pro.
At the moment it seems to be okay, the bed has gone a bit weird in that the tightening wheels underneath it are almost not even engaged on one side, and one dropped off after a print, but the print was fine, not entirely sure how I rectify that. New springs are all good, the rest of the bed is tightened up and the tensioning belts are not loose and I’ve checked everything else is tightened up too.
Any ideas on that one greatly appreciated…
I only just finally changed my bed springs for the flimsy springs that came with it. My adjusting springs used to fall off regularly. I’ve never had auto bed levelling. I find it very quick and easy to do it manually with the Chep level bed gcode. The Chep bed level print will really show you how well your layers are going down.
Congratulations!!! You have discovered the answer to the world’s energy problems. Everyone gets a 3D printer and powers their lives with it
Seriously, I assume what’s happening here is classic induction. In school physics class you may have be shown the experiment where a nail is moved inside a coil of wire and deflects the needle of a volt meter. The ferrous content of the nail causes induction of electrical energy in the coil. There must be enough ferrous material in the print bed to trigger the BL Touch. Does the brightness of the light change depending on how quickly you move the print bed?
I have always moved my stepper motors quite slowly because I have been warned that moving them too fast can have consequences.
Yea i tightened all my bed springs down then removed the z-axes limit switch as the gantry was hitting it preventing the needle of the BL Touch from touching the bed. Once that was done i leveled the bed and all was good. Once you get the z offset set correctly and save it you shouldn’t have to change it again unless you replace the nozzle or move the BL Touch.