Ender 3 S1 Pro with Sonic Pad First Layer

I have been working to figure out how to better print with the sonic pad, main reason was I wanted to print somewhat faster. I have many of the issues worked out, and now want to focus on the first layer issue. Up till now I have printed smaller parts so it really hasn’t been an issue.

Before the sonic pad I used to use the superslicer, I still think it is better for me to understand, but the sonic pad has all of the resources to use the Ultimaker slicer. I am also working to understand this slicer. I was not able to get the print speed when I used the superslicer, so I have given up on using it.

My first print I use to see if the first layer is an issue is this large X which prints over a large area of the print bed. The print I get for a single layer is very course on the top and I can see slight gaps showing through.

Here is an image of what the first layer looks like. In general it sticks to the bed really well. I am printing this with PETG, and I have read in several searches that this is normal. After the third layer it gets to normal, so maybe it isn’t a problem, I thought I would ask knowing people I trust.

My first thought is that it looks like over extrusion. Have you tried reducing the extrusion multiplier slightly?

P.S. – FWIW, SuperSlicer is a fork of PrusaSlicer. PrusaSlicer limits speed using “maximumum volumetric flow.” That setting may be limiting your speed increases in SuperSlicer.

By slightly do you mean 2% lower or 10% lower. I will try both and start with initial layer flow.

I looked at the SuperSlicer configuration after I did a few searches that indicated the setting should be in two places, in the Filament settings and the printer settings. ALL I could find that was straight forward was ‘Max volumetric speed’ with units of mm^3/s in the Filament settings. The other parameters that seem useful are Maximum feedrate and it isn’t clear to me how they would relate. Maybe I should just continue with UltiMaker.

I’m just curious if there’s a reason why you’re not using Orcaslicer. Its roots are from SuperSlicer but it’s got quite a lot more capability from PrusaSlicer and Bambu’s fork.

To be honest, I just got the Sonic Pad and it came with UltiMaker files already made for klipper. I tried to modify the settings for SuperSlicer and couldn’t figure nit out, Just couldn’t get the speed that I could get with UltiMaker. I will admit the issue is just plain me, I don’t, at least at this point, have enough background of the parameters for the different slicers, so I just punted with the easy solution. I have a few more prints for a project I am in the middle of and then I might try OrcaSlicer. I looked through the settings for the SuperSlicer and couldn’t see a straight forward set of steps.

Just to have it I attempted to download the orcaslicer for linux and got Page Not Found Web 404, I will try again later. Thanks for the suggestion.

I tried just now and it seems to be working:
https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/releases/download/v2.2.0/OrcaSlicer_Linux_Ubuntu2404_V2.2.0.AppImage

Either 2% or 10% might be the answer, but I’d start at 2% and decrement from there. SuperSlicer is handy in that it has a number of built-in calibration tests, including one for ‘filament flow calibration.’

The Maximum volumetric flow setting can limit the machine print speed:

S=print speed setting (mm/s)
L=line width setting (mm)
H=line height setting (mm)

Volumetric flow (V) = S * L * H

That said, there are a number of other settings that can slow a machine down. These include outer wall speed, top or bottom layer, and overhang/bridging speed settings. Also, printer acceleration limits and part size can impact actual printing speeds, e.g. is the part big enough for the printer to accelerate the print head up to the desired print speed before it has to change direction?

Cheers

@Alan & @CoreyPDX
I hate Cura and I hate the Sonic Pad. Was working along, everything is not perfect but I had usable prints that I could make progress on my project and make some incremental progress to make the printing better. After a few hours of printing the process I was using just went haywire. All of a sudden nothing would print correctly. The first layer on a round tube like object had a single layer at least 20mm larger in radius added to the print. When I would use the review on cura it looked good, when I printed it it was there. I shut down both the printer and the pad and waited until this morning.

This morning anything I print has a gap, in some places not all, between the outside wall and the infill on every layer. I watch it print the wall lines and they are good, I then watch it print the first infill line and only in places there is about a 1mm gap and it never fills in during the print. It happens on round column parts, rectangular parts, always at the same place on a specific part.

I don’t really think it has anything to do with cura, but cura came with the Sonic Pad. Not sure I know what the next step will be, I hope I don’t have to reset it to factory every month.

It sounds like there are several things going on. If you don’t like the Somic Pad, why not take it off and revert to Marlin?

What Build Plate Adhesion settings are being used in Cura? The “single layer at least 20mm larger in radius added to the print” sounds like a brim. The “gap” is puzzling (skirt? brim? wall order?). Can you save a print as a 3mf project and upload it?

It looks like there is too much squish in the posted image. I’d increase the z-offset setting.

Cheers

P.S. – Not sure if I’ve posted this link, but when I’m having problems I like refer back to this site: Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration

Have you looked at the layer animation for that first layer to check the nozzle path in detail? (the horizontal slider control, not the vertical one)

Unfortunately I have ubuntu 22.04 and the built version wants 24.04. I am considering upgrading, I just haven’t yet. I suspect I will in the next couple of weeks when I get other projects I am working on done. Thanks for your help, appreciate it.

Unfortunately I made a bad assumption, eventually figured it out. The bad assumption, I replaced the y axis belt about 2 months ago, no way could that be a problem. Eventually I tried to wiggle it and found a small amount of slack. I took the bed off and there was a half cut right where the band connects to the bed carriage. Found a sharp enough edge and maybe I had the band too tight, and after replacing the band again it works correctly again. I added a .4mm piece of plastic between the band and the bed carriage so maybe that will be better. Unfortunately, all of the y axis bands have been different sizes, and only could add at one end. I’m thinking of using a dremel to grind down the sharp edge.

Anyway, thanks for all of the help, I do have it working now.

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Thanks for the link to the calibration page. I used many of the techniques, some I don’t have enough experience to totally understand, but many have been valuable, thanks again.

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Great! Happy to take a shot at answering any calibration questions you may have.

Cheers

OK, So I upgrade to 24.04 and get the os working mostly, I just need to try this OrcaSlicer. I download it and when I try to run it, it is looking for my certificate store. If I don’t have one, and just let it proceed, there is no way for it to do anything, not even kill the app from the application header. ps with grep to find it then kill is the only way to close it. Not sure why this slicer wants me to have a certificate, but I guess that’s next.

Weird. Did you see this warning?

" :rotating_light::rotating_light::rotating_light:Important Security Alert​:rotating_light::rotating_light::rotating_light:

Please be aware that “orcaslicer.net” or “orcaslicer.info” are NOT an official website for OrcaSlicer and may be potentially malicious. This site appears to use AI-generated content, lacking genuine context, and seems to exist solely to profit from advertisements. Worse, it may redirect download links to harmful sources. For your safety, avoid downloading OrcaSlicer from this site as the links may be compromised.

The only official platforms for OrcaSlicer are our GitHub project page and the official Discord channel .

We deeply value our OrcaSlicer community and appreciate all the social groups that support us. However, it is crucial to address the risk posed by any group that falsely claims to be official or misleads its members. If you encounter such a group or are part of one, please assist by encouraging the group owner to add a clear disclaimer or by alerting its members."

The official release is here: Release OrcaSlicer V2.2.0 Official Release · SoftFever/OrcaSlicer · GitHub

Cheers

Nope, It seems to ba a known issue with people using nvidea cards. Integrated and amd cards seem to work. It sucks because if one spends on an nvidea card, going back seems like a bad idea. I might try my slicer on my windows machine just to be sure.

I have not been able to get the SoftFever/OrcaSlicer to even run, i have what seems to be a linux problem. I submitted a request on the discord page for any idea of how to move forward and so far no response.

So, I had the thought that the Bambu Studio is just a more developed version of the OrcaSlicer so I downloaded that and it works, at least runs and slices. I don’t have the speed specific parameters in yet but will work on that this weekend. It was even able to send a sliced object to klipper that is attached to the printer.