Weird. Can you post the results of M503 (show EEPROM settings)? What’s the z-offset setting shown in the LCD? Also, what is your start g-code?
M502 should restore the factory settings (Caveat: I’ve never tried it). Alternatively, I recall that Monoprice has the firmware for the MP10 listed on the product’s web page.
Cheers
Thanks for the start g-code. It looks good. I wanted to confirm that there was no G29 command or something else that might be odd. The z-offset is also reasonable.
Where does the hotend go when you press the Home button on the LCD screen?
It probably is the angle of your photo, but is the white 3-pin connector disconnected from the induction sensor mounted below the cooling fan on the right side of the picture (see below)?
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I expected the firmware update to reset all your EEPROM settings. Ugh. The printer’s firmware has some r/w memory where variables like the z-offset and bed map are stored. Those settings can be accessed using a computer running a terminal program by means of a USB cable. A popular terminal program is Pronterface; these programs allow you to send g-code commands one at a time to the printer to execute. Great for diagnosing problems. Our host, DRVAX, also has a web-based version. I run my printers using OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi computer (they used to be cheap) acting as a server (among other things). OctoPrint’s web interface has a tab that serves as a terminal interface. Do you have some means to connect a computer to your MP10? Pronterface can be found in the full download of Prusa Slicer.
I should note that the other fixes that I posted above are successful fixes, according to the authors. I have the parts for the PINDA probe replacement in anticipation that my current sensor will fail. The author of that fix has posted a video of it in action. I also am pretty sure I have a replacement sensor around here somewhere if all else fails.
Cheers!
I noticed that Z-axis would not go down using the move functions on the screen. I looked at the end stopper sensor and noticed that it wasn’t making that satisfying click noise at all. I removed it and it seems to be broken. I have a feeling that may the issue? Maybe it thinks it’s at the bottom and always wants to go up? Thoughts?
The problem is no one has any end stoppers in stock. ?
You can test this… carefully. Disconnect 1 of the wires from the switch and try to move the nozzle. Be prepared to quickly cut the power if the nozzle gets too close to the bed. I would try it with the nozzle way up high.
Sure enough, it went down without a problem with the stopper disconnected.
Wait a second. I just re-read your original post. Do you have an induction sensor, as in automatic bed levelling?
If so, on most printers there is either a ABL or a Z axis limit switch, BUT NOT BOTH.
If it was my printer, and I determined it does have an ABL, I would leave the wire disconnected from the limit switch and tell the printer to autohome. This is potentially dangerous, so I would have my finger on the power switch the whole time. What I would be looking to see happen is for the X and Y axes to move until they hit their limit switches, then the Z axis to come down until the induction sensor is triggered, then the Z axis to raise again and sit there. It may not happen exactly like that, but something very similar.
The MP10 uses a hacked version of Marlin, and in OEM configuration has both the induction sensor and z-limit switch connected. I wouldn’t be surprised if the software ignores the z-limit switch when it senses the autolevel sensor. When the z-limit switch arm is pressed down, do you hear an audible click? Also, let us know the results of Ender5r’s test of homing with the z-limit switch disconnected and induction sensor connected.
Cheers
thx @Alan. That is great info. So, Monoprice decided to keep the limit switch as an emergency backup I guess.
@CKMG you could also try moving the Z axis way up and then tell the printer to auto home. As the Z axis is coming down, bring a piece of metal close to the sensor. Does the Z axis stop, or not?
That was a great suggestion! Yes, it did stop going down when I put something under the sensor! So I guess it’s safe to try and print without the end stop? Or at least until someone has them in stock again, if ever.
That’s very good news. It does indeed look like you can try doing an autohome without that switch. Be careful. Be on alert to kill the power if needed.
BTW, do you have a photo of this limit switch? You say they’re not in stock, but these switches are usually cheap and readily available (unless this is some very special switch, which really doesn’t make sense).
Is that the actual switch and adapter from your printer? If so, it should be relatively easy to replace, as long as you have some basic soldering skills.
BUT, first, you should check the continuity of the existing switch. I hope you have a DVOM. If not, you need to get a cheap 1 if you’re going to do 3D printing. And, I hope you know how to do a continuity check (it really is easy).
Here are some switches that look like they match the one in the picture: Amazon.com
Here is another image of the limit switches for the MP MP10:
The site says the z-limit switch is different from X and Y. I’m not sure what that means, but I’d guess that one set is normally open and the other normally closed. I bet with some light soldering, the PCB board could be reused.
Cheers
@Alan the link didn’t work for me.
Having a look at [U]https://gigdigit.com/endstop-set-x-y-z-for-mp10-and-mp10-mini/[/U] I’m going to say the difference between the X,Y, and Z limit switches is the placement of the JST connector.
@CKMG, the photo you posted looks exactly like the switch in the link I posted and, since it’s the only different 1, I figure it must be the Z switch.
gigdigit is out of stock for the switch set. This all the more reason to test the continuity of the existing switch. Yours looks to be in pretty good shape and, to be honest, this type of switch doesn’t fail too too often. They do fail over time, after many many uses, but yours isn’t that old soooo…
Now, just because gigdigit is out of stock doesn’t mean you are stuck. As I posted earlier, you should be able to replace the actual switch on the small circuit board. For me it would be about a 15 minute job.
Don’t give up hope.
Ugh. I need more coffee in the morning. Yes, it is the placement of the connector on the board with the z-axis switch being pictured as the top one in the image.
Cheers
I appreciate that! Unfortunately, my soldering skills don’t go past knowing what everything does, which I guess is a start, lol.
I can confirm that it won’t print properly with just the induction sensor as it still raises about four inches before trying to print in midair even though it does go to the ‘home’ position just fine when using the move menu. ?