Stringing Ugh!

3d Printing / Slicers / Setup / Problems
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1

Recently my Ender 5 was stringing like mad and no matter how I tuned the slicer the problem continued.

After digging on the internet I happened across this YouTube video on the CHEP channel.

I replaced the bowden tube and with a couple of other adjustments the stringing ceased. Below is the bowden tube I removed.

Notice how the end is blackened that was against the hot end. Heat over time will reduce the slickness of even the Capricorn tube.

My current bowden tube is a bit longer than stock to allow the end to be trimmed instead of totally replaced.

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2

I had a similar issue that I posted about a while back: [U]Live & Learn.... I Guess (Again) - MakeWithTech Community Forum

3

I’ve ordered some compression fittings that I hope will eliminate this problem, but they haven’t arrived yet. I’ll report back after I try them out.
Note that the fitting on the hot end (and in my case, the extruder) aren’t metric, they are 1/8" NPT (pipe threading, which tapers toward the tip.)

4

The issue will not go away. The use of Capricorn tubing lengthens the time the tubing is viable but, eventually, the heat of the hotend will degrade the tubing and it will need to be replaced again. By using longer than you need, you can just trim off the bad part and re-insert.

5

Been there, done that, got the T-shirt. In fact, I’ve adopted the exact same practice of over-sizing the Capricorn tubing so that I can trim it down 1/2" at a time when the stringing returns so that I get more lifetime out of the tube.

I also have a Prusa MK3S+ printer and whatever PFTE they use in the hot end is much better than Capricorn’s material. The Prusa prints at higher temperatures and after a couple of months of printing exclusively PETG @ 250degC the original PFTE looks good as new–no exaggeration. I compared it side by side with a spare tube that I ordered and couldn’t tell which was which. No burning whatsoever. Capricorn’s PFTE is lame sauce compared to whatever PFTE is included in the MK3S+.

6

@mochalatte, the MK3S+ heatbreak keeps the Bowden tube isolated from the hot zone, while the Creality hot ends lead it right up to the nozzle.
It’s not the PFTE material, it’s the (superior) heatbreak design.
I’ve looked for replacement heatbreaks like these for the my Ender 3, and they cost as much as my entire hot end (which is only $15.)
Still, I’m considering upgrading. I can’t think of any reason to extend the Bowden tube to the nozzle other than cost savings.
Without a perfectly flat end on the Bowden tube, you are set up for leakage. And degradation means a perfectly flat end of the PFTE tube is strictly temporary.

7

Yeah, that makes sense about the heat break giving the PFTE a chance in the MK3S. The Bowden tube on an Ender is a frequency-replaced consumable.

8

Anyone tried these titanium heat breaks?

https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/tough-titanium-heatbreak-for-creality-machines-tough-dual-hotend/

9

Haven’t tried them but the price seems pretty reasonable for titanium.

10

Concerning my post on 01-03-2022, 12:33 PM, 03:23 PM; the compression fittings arrived from Amazon.
They made no mention of inside diameter (I was just hoping) and of course they are too small for a Bowden tube. Do not buy.
Drilling them out won’t work; they include a ferule that is too small and must fit.