Greetings,
I could really use some help I’m pulling my hair out. I got my printer exactly a year ago, had my 3rd kid and then moved halfway across the country. I have only maybe 10 times items before I had to focus on family and the printer sat in storage for the last 7 or 8 months.
I have an ender 3 v2 with a bl touch. I only set up the bl touch a week ago.
I followed Dr. Vax’s video on how to set up the BL touch pretty much to the letter. The only deviation is I do not have any glue. I also cleaned out my nozzle. It seems to be extruding properly. I ordered the glue and a new set of nozzles and will swap out the old one when I get them.
To me it seems like a bed leveling issue. But maybe someone can help me diagnose. I have re-leveled the bed maybe 10 times and watched multiple videos on how to do it.
I have been really frustrated for 2 weeks trying to get this to work.
Please any help or advise would be wonderful.
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Thank you
That certainly looks as though the front of the bed is too close to the nozzle. If it was my printer I would turn each of the front wheels 1/4 turn from left to right and try the print again.
Thanks for the suggestion. I did exactly what you suggested right when I got home after work. This time the back didn’t stick. Sorry for the blurry picture. I’ll take another later tonight.
Any other thoughts? I’ll try to re level again tonight.
Also if the bed has four screws, only use three of them. I only use the two at the front and the one in the right back. With four bed screws the bed is over constrained. You only need three points in space to define a plane. When using the forth you change the others.
Move the tool head to the back left, use a paper to adjust the height and never touch that bed screw again. Now adjust the bed using the other three knobs until you get a proper result.
Good advice @Geit. I would only add that it’s best to place the back left knob in the middle of it’s range. Tighten it right up, then loosen it, counting the turns until it is completely loose, then tighten up again half the number of turns.
I have head about leveling with only 3 screws but never the way @Geit explained it. When I setup my old Wahoo for TPU I’m going to try it. So if I’m understanding this correctly you tram the left rear corner 1st then precede like normal using the other 3 screws.
yes @Gramps. It really doesn’t matter which corner you choose. What matters is you pick a corner and stick to it. When using the SCREWS_TILT_CALIBRATE feature of Klipper that’s exactly what it does. It uses the front left corner as its anchor, but the effect is the same.
You do not need to “calibrate” the - in my case - back left screw. The problem is that the screw on the back right should be in the center of the back side in a proper three knob setup, but it is not. This wouldn’t be a problem without gravity, but since we cannot remove the back left screw without creating a down force on the back left, we need the spring to give the hole construct a little push against gravity. Or in other words the left back of the bed would be a leaver without the screw and the springs are its anker points. The “three points define a plane”- rule partly fails if the positions are spring loaded. Of course you can remove the springs and replace them by pillars, but then you cannot adjust them anymore. We have a chicken-egg situation here and the best solution would be a bed mounted on three springs arranged as an equal sized triange.
Having four screws always was a bad idea and they still sell printer with this design flaw.
Having the back left somewhat calibrated helps getting the rest correct. It does not matter if the spring is a little loose, but keep in mind that the back right needs to be able to deal with the forces the back side of the plate is required to handle.
Having it somewhat calibrated does not lead to a complete bend bed and also keeps a constant force in holding the bed, even so the other screws are fighting against it. For me it always worked like this.
