What got me was the big square and the small square were printed with the same profile and z-offset.
You do need to ensure the layer settings in the slicer match up with the actual thickness of the square. For example, if you printed the 0.24mm square, Cura needs to have:
- [I]Layer Height[/I] set to 0.24
- [I]Initial Layer Height[/I] to 0.24
- [I]Top/Bottom Thickness[/I] to 0.24
- [I]Top Layers[/I] to 0
- [I]Bottom Thickness[/I] to 0.24
- [I]Top/Bottom Pattern[/I] to lines
- [I]Bottom Pattern Initial Layer[/I] to lines
Printed 2 30x30x0.2 squares, one was the one Ender5r uploaded here and the other was one I made in Freecad that was 80x80x0.6 that I scaled in PrusaSlicer to 30x30x0.2 both were sliced with the same settings using the same profile. Don’t know if it shows in the photo but they are different. The one we’ll call Ender5r looks like the z-offset was changed halfway trough. Mine looks the same all the way except it has some tiny pin holes on the right side and bottom seam.
Ok maybe it’s because I scaled mine so I opened FreeCad and made a 30x30x0.2 square, exported it and sliced it with the same setting and profile as the other 2 this one printed but the infill lines did not stick together, like the z-offset was to high. The z-offset in Klipper was not changed it was 0.710 for all of them. Which in my mind doesn’t make sense because the probe is 2mm above the nozzle give or take. I’m printing a handle now just to see what it looks like and it also was sliced with the same profile as the squares.
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Right: Ender5r. Left: Gramps
I wonder if you’ve reversed the labels. The left 1 seems to be more ‘ridgey’ going from bottom right to top left. The right 1 seems to be better overall, but both are not bad IMHO.
I did think about butting different color dots on them but as you can see I didn’t. I printed a handle for a kids toys container last night the bottom looks ok the stop isn’t what I would call rough but the infill lines are very distinct. After thinking about this I think I should do a flow calibration and see if it’s extruding a 100mm when it is suppose to.
An extruder calibration is never a bad idea. Also, after that, you can use the Flow option in your slicer to get the thickness of the 30mm squares correct. Yesterday, I found my 0.20mm thick squares were actually coming out 0.35mm thick. I reduced the Flow from 100% to 90%. That brought the thickness down to 0.26mm. A further reduction to 80% Flow brought the thickness down to a range of 0.18mm to 0.21mm. Getting the thickness correct really helps with getting dimensionally accurate prints, at least as accurate as can reasonably be expected with 3D printing. We do have to always remember that we’re really working with fancy glue guns.
As the Flow Rate is reduced, it may become necessary to lower the nozzle closer to the bed. As I’ve mentioned before, in Klipper that means to increase the Z Offset value. I had to change mine by about 0.4mm.
Good suggestions. That is how I describe the 3D printing process to people a computer controlled hot glue gun. A friend that designs hot ends suggested that I print a single wall hollow cube and measuring the wall thickness with a micrometer,. It should be .04 thick using a .04 nozzle. If too thick reduce the flow as you suggested.
Prusa has a good document and a test cube that you can download. https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/extrusion-multiplier-calibration_2257
I have used single wall boxes to check flow rate, but I figured I could make the test squares do double duty.
Now that I found this thread, it seems like a lot of the problems I had getting Klipper running were already hashed out. Should have search here better when I was having issues. I wonder if all the suggestions from this post and my post that talks about move errors should be combined in to a Klipper problem thread.
That might be a good idea. I think everyone runs into a little experimenting with bed mesh and offsets. Probably the best suggestion is to start with a small area and then make changes to see how the numbers work. I measured my bed and put masking tape on the center lines, then marked the center and adjusted home until I hit that mark after that start with the max and min for bed mesh and mark those positions make a change to one value and mark the new location. You can quickly make the changes to the printer.cfg and after some experimenting get your mesh perfect.
I calibrated the esteps called Rotation in Klipper. Took me s while to find the proper procedure but when I did it was pretty easy to follow. Rotation distance - Klipper documentation Mine was under extruding. I then did a PID tune on the extruder and bed then off to print some more squares. The 1st one looked better than the last one from yesterday. I then used a suggestion form TH3D for the 1st layer set up using the EZABL 1st layer width 150%, 1st layer height 0.3mm, speed 20mm/sec. I then sliced and printed that square. It looks really nice in my opinion. Put the 1st layer setting from PrusaSlicer into Ideamaker sliced and printed another square. It came out okay but I don’t think it quite as good as the PS one.
I then decided to print a real model, I need a handle for a kids toy bucket that great grandma broke yesterday, it’s on the printer now. Sliced it with PrusaSlicer to keep the playing field level for now. When I get upstairs to the MacBook I’ll upload some photos that I took on the iPhone and need converted.
This is my 1st Klipper print, I think ti came out pretty good.
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Way to go @Gramps. It looks really good. Is it PLA or PETG, or something else?
Thanks @Ender5r it’s been a learning experience for sure. Marlin all I did was tell it what board I was using and a couple of other things and compiled and that was it. Setting the z-offset with baby steps plus you could baby step live seemed easier to me but maybe not. It took em a while to get the EXABL setup too. I’m sure that the tunnel would have been a lot longer without the yours, Dave’s and others help. The handle was printed with Coex PLA.
Klipper does have a bit of a learning curve, but the benefits are something else. Wait til you get to Input Shaping and Pressure Advance. They made sooo much difference to the quality of my prints, and that’s while printing twice as quickly.
BTW, if the PLA handle turns out to be too brittle and cracks, try it again in PETG. It’s stronger but, more imporantly, it’s more resilient.
Grandma keeps breaking the pins off the stock ones, so far she hasn’t broken any that I have made but will keep the PETG in mind. I’ve printed a couple of things with it but it’s been a looooooong time. I just recently started printing in TPU I’m really enjoying it this time around. Last time I tried printing with it the results were terrible.
Personally I wish Irv would setup a Klipper/Fluidd/Mainsail Forum and move the current Klipper threads to it. That would put all the information in one place. Your idea is a good one to but unless it was pinned I think it would get lost if there wasn’t a lot of activity to keep it near the top. Maybe @Ender5r will index this thread with all the Klipper trouble shooting tips.
I think issue just come with Klipper, I read through this thread before I started and still had issues. Between here and searching the WWW I was able to work through them. I think my biggest hurdle was the backwards math. But I guess it all depends on how you look at it and what your use to.
Ran across this on Reddit, another way to check Pressure Advance with Klipper using the Marlin method. https://advanced3dprinting.com/linear-advance-tool-klipper/
I haven’t tried this yet but will in the near future