Best replacement for a Prusa MMK3S+ hotend

Hi, some of you might remember that I have a preassembled Prusa which had many issues, which I managed to solve with various tips I got on here. It now prints better than before it was shipped back for repairs under warranty, and the tips I got on here after it returned and still didn’t work properly, make it possible to print again.

That said, I barely print anyway, as I canceled all my large projects for years to come. This printer is not up for such a challenge. I also want a huge multicolor printer, version 2 so no infancy illnesses anymore, for a normal price tag, and only after we have moved in a few years. Since we will move to a better climate, I decided it would not be a good idea to haul all of those printed items that far. But I do print miniatures every now and then.

I did about 60 prints since the repairs and the blobbing started to get worse again, causing 1/4 of first layer failures currently. After the first layer completes, the blobs don’t cause a problem that much anymore. I keep an eye on the entire first layer to grab drools and blobs, otherwise all prints would fail. Nope not too hot, 200-205C prints, PLA I used successfully on previous printers as well.

One of the repairs done by Prusa was “to tighten the nozzle”. It still comes loose apparently after 60 prints. I contact them by email, as live chat is a nono because of my disability. If they won’t give me a new hotend under warranty, I will buy a different brand and replace it when the warranty period has passed in a few months. Any input on which brand? Preferably something with an easy way to replace a nozzle, instead of the excruciatingly difficult task it is with my Prusa one. Not that we even attempted, as this printer hasn’t printed that much yet.


The E3D makes a “drop in” replacement ( Revo™ Prusa MK3 Edition) for the stock hotend. It’s somewhat pricey, but you get “simple, tool-free nozzle swaps that don’t need hot tightening.” (Note: E3D has a [guide online]( It looks like it might be necessary to modify the Prusa firmware.)


P.S. – Did you print a temperature tower? I have a printer that “runs hot” so I print most PLAs at 185C.

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Thanks so much! That makes life much easier!

Forgot to add: at 195C, the PLA brand that works best on my Prusa suffers from bad layer adhesion, so 200-205 is what it needs. Miniatures are quite fragile, less is no option.

I got a ludicrous answer from their helpdesk, they did not even look at my pics to see what I mean with the word blobs. Sigh. I will spare you the rest of the answers they gave, but a very leaky nozzle is normal and apparently, it is required to watch each 10 minutes of a print. If I had known, I would not have bought one, being severely disabled. My previous printers never leaked PLA heavily at 200C. As soon as my warranty has expired, Revo it is!

This time, they accused me of tampering with the nozzle, whilst it was them who tightened it on their preassembled printer, stated on their own repair report. I am not an idiot to tamper with a nozzle. It’s also normal that a nozzle loosens itself after 60 prints apparently. Prusa: never again.