yeah, but you can just bend the pin to the outside, so it misses the socket, when plugged in.
I just read a little about sensorless homing and, I have to say, I don’t get it. What is supposed to be the advantage? The article I read specifically said that, even if sensorless homing is used for X and/or Y axis, it’s not a great idea for the Z axis, as the system on inexpensive printers isn’t accurate to place the nozzle reliably.
EDIT: as per this thread: [U]https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/fc9x6l/why_use_sensorless_homing/[/U] there seems to be little no advantage to sensorless homing. Theoretically, I guess, it could save a tiny bit on hardware by not having to make room for sensor connectors on the control board, and not having to install switches, but they seem like a really minor advantages. As these 2 guys say:
Why use sensorless homing?
Can someone explain why use sensorless homing when ender 3 come with axis switches?
Because it's cool.
Assumed that, though thought I'm missing something.
Sensorless homing is quite nice. You have less sensors around the printer and more important less cables. Especially when a cable needs to move along with the axis there is always the chance of breaking it. There is one thing that cannot break as it does not exists physically.
You can also use them in combination with normal end stops, so if a switch breaks or gets loose, the printer will not crash into the frame. This can be also handy with the Z axis, as you cannot get too deep onto the build plate.
On my GeitPrinter I just have one cable on the printers entire frame and that is a static wire to the optical z end stop. I know some people think optical endstop can be affected by dust, but they just cause the printer to fail with an error, as the hardware defect can be detected by the firmware. If the printer moves Z by 10mm and the end stop still reports to be hit, there is an issue with the switch.
I had running TMC2130 with sensorless homing on a ramps board, but the sensitivity was limited. It was ok, but with the new TMC2209 are far more sensitive and the printer is so silent. That is amazing. You don´t even hear the “crash” performed to detect the frame bump. I would never again go down the road and use older chop sticks unless I need to fix something temporary and use my spares. They are a little more expensive, but include all features and there is no need to other silencing hacks or manual ampere setup using a tiny screw driver and what not. All is done in software.
Hey guys, In YT, a guy named TeachingTech, have many helpfull tuts on SKR boards. Just take a look! He covers almost the 99% on everything arround 3D printing …
He’s got a lot of videos, although there is 1 YouTuber who is not a fan. He claims Michael steals most of his video ideas from other YouTubers, including at least 1 from him. I have no idea if there’s any validity to the claim.
TeachingTech has made a significant contribution to the community with this website:
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#intro
Cheers
@Alan, thanks very much for the link. I have watched a number of the TeachingTech videos, but have not run across this link anywhere else. I think it should be more heavily publicized.
My misadventures with the Ender 5 Pro continue. I received my replacement Ender 5 Pro from Amazon yesterday. I removed the power supply cover in order to install the SL-Smoothers and I dropped the cover before unplugging the fan wire, resulting in the wire being pulled loose from the fan. I ordered a couple of replacement fans from Amazon and they arrived. I a new fan and noticed that it made no sound while running. This is the fan that I ordered: Amazon.com
I then proceeded to set the extruder filament feed rate. That went well.
Now the problems start. First thing wrong. No movement on the Y axis. After a while, I discovered a bent pin on the Y stepper motor plug. Fixed that.
Second problem. Fiaiment did not want to feed. I decided to remove filament from Bowden Tube and it was hard to pull out. Kind of like the filament was trying to stick to the inside of the Bowden Tube. I cut about a foot of the filament and re-inserted it back into the Bowden Tube and thinks were fine for a little while.
Third problem. This was my first print. [ATTACH=JSON]{“data-align”:“none”,“data-size”:“small”,“data-attachmentid”:3225}[/ATTACH] This was supposed to be 4 cubes. 1 wall thickness cube and 3 different XYZ cubes. Everything started out fine and there was a big shift in the X axis.
I then decided tho just print one cube and got this result: [ATTACH=JSON]{“data-align”:“none”,“data-size”:“small”,“data-attachmentid”:3226}[/ATTACH] A similar problem I had with the first printer. Filament feed problem. However, this time the extruder was trying to feed filament, but filament seemed to be trying to bind in the Bowden Tube.
And he final problem for the day (and probably for this printer before sending it back to Amazon) is that the printer does not, now, read the micro SD card when it is in the slot. I have tried 3 different micro SD cards and the printer does not read any of them
If I send this printer back to Amazon, I am going to get another brand of printer. Does anyone have any ideas on a printer is about the same price range as the Ender 5 Pro that is a machine that I can just plug in a start 3D printing without a lot of problems?
I am looking at the TwoTrees Sapphire 3D printer.
Does anyone have any experience with this printer or know any reason I should not buy this printer?
I don’t know anything about the TwoTree printer, but I have looked at the Adimlab gantry printer: https://www.amazon.com/ADIMLab-Assem…4-135149aa9081
It comes with a Titan direct extruder.
As far as getting a printer that you can just start printing with, I don’t really think you can get that for less than $1,000.
I was not clear about what I intended to say when I said “just plug it in and start 3D printing”. I was actually talking about AFTER assembly. I do not mind putting these machines together. I am just sick and tired of all the damn tinkering I am having to do to try to get the printer to operate properly. I want to print stuff, not tinker with the machine.
Even a Prusa needs assembly. Now, if you really want a plug 'n play, you could go for a Dremel. I’ve been told they’re pretty much ready right out of the box. You have to be a little careful though: they make units with and without heated beds, and they look very much alike. They are enclosed printers, and they’re expensive, especially considering the rather small build volume.
Again, assembly is no problem. I don’t mind that. I just want to print things after assembly.
OK, but the thing is, most equipment that requires assembly requires calibration and testing after assembly. If you assemble something, then disassemble and reassemble it, and do that again, you will get 3 different readings if you measure critical aspects. Mass production requires tolerances, and that leads to slight differences in post assembly results. The bottom line is that you have to be prepared to 1) spend a lot of money or 2) go through a process of calibration and testing.
If you haven’t already, I suggest you watch this video (@Alan linked to it earlier): [U]https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#intro.[/U] Michael gives a pretty thorough explanation of the things you need to dial in before you can print successfully.
I spent nearly 2 weeks dialing in my Ender 5 Pro.
OK, I can understand calibration and adjustment. Tweaking for best printing results, I know, is part of the process… What I am most upset with, at the moment, is the filament feed problems and yet, that was the very first problem I had with this new printer.
Also, at this time, I really need to address the “no TF card” message when there is a micro SD card plugged in the slot. I would not be so discouraged if I was making progress toward getting things tweaked.
I have to ask a really dumb question, because I did it myself more than once: are you getting the springing action when you insert the SD card? The reason I ask is because I find it super easy to get the SD card above or below the actual SD card slot. More than once I’ve had to use tweezers to get the card out of the slot. It’s a real PITA AFAIC.
If the filament does not want to go back through the bowden tubing, it was not properly unloaded.
When doing this by hand, heat up the tool, push and hold the lever on the extruder and push the filament in, so that the tip melts and filament extrudes. Now yank it back a little.
This forces the molten Tipp into the tube, avoiding building a blob that blocks at the pipes opening. The rest should be just normal pulling. Keep the lever on the extruder pressed while pulling/pushing the filament.
@Geit Yup. That’s exactly how I change filament now. I actually heat the nozzle around 20C higher than I normally use when printing with that filament. so 220C for most PLA and 260C for most PETG. When I insert the new filament, I forcibly push a few inches of filament through the nozzle. I make sure I get a nice, fat, steady stream of filament out of the nozzle (I lower the print bed by about 100 so the filament can flow freely from the nozzle.
Ender5r…
More than once I’ve had to use tweezers to get the card out of the slot
Been there, done that. No, the micro SD is properly inserted in the slot. It simply is not being read by the printer.
Guys! Thanks for the tips on loading and unloading the filament. There are things that I HAVE NOT been doing in the past, but will do in the future.
OK, enough crying and complaining about my troubles with this printer. I figured out a few hours ago how to solve the micro SD problem. I still have the first Ender 5 Pro that I ordered. I was going to send it back to Amazon later today. As far as I know, there is nothing wrong with the base unit of that printer so I will simply switch bases between the two printers. That should solve the SD problem.
I am going to try to solve the filament feeding problem by installing my direct drive unit on the newest printer. That should, at least, eliminate any Bowden Tube problems that I may be having.
As I said, “No more whining or crying about problems.” I just really got so frustrated trying to overcome the filament feed problem while trying to print something. That being said, I am going to get this printer working, somehow.
Ender5r…I know about inserting micro SD card wrong and using tweezers to retrieve the SD card. Been there, done that. No, the micro SD is properly inserted in the slot. It simply is not being read by the printer.
Guys! Thanks for the tips on loading and unloading the filament. There are things that I HAVE NOT been doing in the past, but will do in the future.
OK, enough crying and complaining about my troubles with this printer. I figured out a few hours ago how to solve the micro SD problem. I still have the first Ender 5 Pro that I ordered. I was going to send it back to Amazon later today. As far as I know, there is nothing wrong with the base unit of that printer so I will simply switch bases between the two printers. That should solve the SD problem.
I am going to try to solve the filament feeding problem by installing my direct drive unit on the newest printer. That should, at least, eliminate any Bowden Tube problems that I may be having.
As I said, “No more whining or crying about problems.” I just really got so frustrated trying to overcome the filament feed problem while trying to print something. That being said, I am going to get this printer working, somehow.