That’s why I wish Creality sold the Z Axis assembly separately, for around $100, instead of closer to $1,000 for the 5 Plus.
Ahh i see. No i meant the ender 3 v2 controller board has a connector on it made for the BL Touich its a 5 pin JST connector and that’s where the 5 wires from the BL Touch plug into. None of the wires coming from the BL Touch plug into the scoket for the z axes limit switch on the ender 3 v2 anyway.
Ah, that makes sense. On my control board I believe I would have to connect the 2-wire sensor cable to the Z Axis socket and the other 3 wires to some header pins at the end of the board, beside the LCD display cable socket. I think they’re the same pins that are used if you need to install a bootloader. For sure 1 of the 3 would be power, and another would be ground. Not sure about the 3rd wire.
Ah… ok sorry thought you were asking me ?
S’OK. Nice to know there’s someone else I can ask about Micro Swiss hotends 
Mine is a cheapo from these guys but for the life of me I can’t find the transaction on either Amazon.ca or com. https://www.amazon.com/sp?seller=A1W407K4GXJCPV
Hah! That’s the one I linked to in the comments thread. 
I just found out it is selling for 169 canadian now.
They seem to be all over the place. The guy I spoke with tried to help me monyhs ago but I ended up dropping it I think because I went on my last big holiday to the dominican Republic for 4 months. I’m still paying for that holiday.
If I get some energy I might take it apart and goop it up and install it again.
I’m interested in this goop you talk about. I wasn’t aware there are hotends that require ‘goop’.
Amazon.ca This is a Canadian site with Canadian dollars. When I had problems with this hot end the guy I was talking to at the company thought I had been shipped a tube of this with the order. So I just dought some and haven’t tried it yet because my old hotend doesn’t leak any more (usually). Never say never.
Ahhh, now I see. OK, that is NOT leak stopping goop. It’s thermal conducting paste. I have several tubes of it in my basement right now. It’s purpose is to conduct heat from one object to another, by filling in the tiny (i.e. microscopic) flaws in the surfaces. It’s helps by mating 1 surface more closely to another.
One of thermal paste’s main uses is to cool computer CPUs. You put a v-e-r-y s-m-a-l-l amount of it on the top of the CPU, then mount the CPU cooler on top of that. It can make the difference between the CPU burning up (as CPUs from years ago could do) or slowing down to run cooler (as modern CPUs do), sometimes so much they run practically in slow motion.
I’m trying to think where you would use thermal paste on a hotend, and coming up empty.
Also, I’ve tried, in vain, to find a manual for the Creality All Metal Hotend. I can’t even find that hotend on the Creality website. It seems to be a pretty scarce item.
EDIT: I just thought of 1 place where you might use the thermal paste: around the heater cartridge, just before inserting it into the heater block, to help conduct the heat from the cartridge to the block, but I don’t really think it’s necessary.
Mostly you use it between the heatbrake and cooling section. As you have said it helps transfer the heat so that the cooling area pulls the heat out of the heatbreak so the filament doesn’t melt before it hits the nozzle. Most companies supply a small packet with their product.
I think I will try both suggestions. It might even help my heat creep problem on my regular creality hot end. Thanks for the information.
Do you think there would be any benefits in putting it on the threads of the nozzle also?
Thanks Dave. Funnily enough, I just found a review on Amazon that says exactly that.
Interestingly, a 2nd review on Amazon mentioned using it on the threads.
I’m going to include both reviews here, because you never know when they might disappear from Amazon:
J. French
4.0 out of 5 stars Great hotend, but be aware of what you’re getting into
Reviewed in the United States on 24 January 2020
Verified Purchase
I purchased this and immediately started playing with printing in polycarbonate, nylon, etc, with really good results using default profiles in Cura (Carbon fiber polycarbonate is especially gorgeous and scarily durable). But as soon as I went back to trusty PLA, there were problems. Not from the quality of the product, but all-metal hotends play by their own rules. The steel nozzles that come with it, also take some finessing.
First: Clogging. MAJOR clogging. Go lower your retraction distance to about 2-3mm if you’re using a Bowden tube setup. I did this, but still had clogging from heat creep about 30 minutes into a print.
I took everything apart and realized I’d applied the little packet of thermal compound to the wrong end of the heatbreak. Apply it to the smooth end that fits into the heatsink. DO NOT APPLY IT TO THE THREADED END THAT GOES INTO THE HEATER BLOCK LIKE I DID. Also, really try not to get it into the throat like I did. You’ll play hell cleaning it all out.
That solved the heat creep, but I was still having under extrusion and minor clogging. So that brings me to the nozzles. OIL THOSE SUCKERS. Think of them like a cast iron pan. They have to be “seasoned” or else everything will just stick to the insides. Start a print, get a good first layer down, then apply a few drops of canola oil with a cloth to the filament feeding into the extruder, and print something hot. It’ll smell like a carnival funnel cake. Bam. All the clogging was gone.
I was getting wonky stringing and blobbing, and just generally crappy prints, but at least it was printing. Which brings me to the 3rd thing. You’re gonna need to fiddle with the firmware and perform a “PID tuning”. Temps for the hotend will way overshoot or under heat because this thing has different thermal properties, and you have to recalibrate how it manages temperature. Don’t worry, a little bit of googling will get you there, and there’s an automated way to perform it in Marlin, so it ended up being quite easy.
So, after ALL of that, which was maybe a week’s worth of banging my head, there was smooth sailing. The only other thing to note is that differences in filaments will be much more prevalent. Whereas before, I could print nearly all my PLA at 205°, 50° bed, set it and forget it, well, you can forget about that. Every spool now has a sweet spot a few degrees different from the last spool, but all of them will need to be hotter than with the stock hotend.
Would I say this is a great product? Yes. Would I say it’s a must-have upgrade, no, at least not for a beginner like myself. It seems really well made, no defects, and all the problems I encountered were operator error. This is a big step from taking your 3d printing from “nifty gimmick”, to a full blown hobby
Marckion
3.0 out of 5 stars Oil that nozzle and increase temps.
Reviewed in the United States on 31 October 2019
Verified Purchase
Well it seems I spoke too soon. It’s somewhat difficult to get consistant extrusion without major jams due to heat creep up into the cooling fins which caused melted filament between the metal and cooling section.
There wasn’t really any instructions on how to install, use, or prep the hotend.
[B]The nozzle is steel and needs to be 5 to 10 degrees hotter than a brass nozzle, brass is easier to use.
Use the thermal grease on the steel nozzle threads for better heat conductivity as well as up into the cooling section to try and prevent heat creep.
Pre-season or oil the inside of the nozzle to prevent jams, I used a coated piece of scrap filament.[/B]
If it still jams try increasing the heat 5 more degrees, also make sure the filament is all the way down into the hotend as there still might be a gap at the top end near the Bowden tube.
Remember to preheat the nozzle then tighten the nozzle for better seal and conductivity and for less filament stick to the tip, oil that too.
Hope this helps.
What I find really interesting is that I’ve watched several videos on upgrading to a Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend, and none of them have shown the use of thermal paste on anything. In fact, the ones that show the kit do not show any packets of thermal grease. Is this perhaps an advantage of the Micro Swiss unit?