JG Maker has a good Facebook group they seem to monitor a bit at (I don’t want to send our discussions over there, but for Artist-D specific issues it is a good place to look):
A user on the Facebook forum had an issue with their printer making a noise when the bed moves back and forth. I had the same issue and here is the fix. The bed is rubbing against the back of the frame. Specifically the round section of sheet metal above the stepper motor. Just bend it down and the noise will go away.
As mentioned in another thread, I recently received the pro version of this printer, yesterday in fact. I know Irv has 1 on order too, so I thought I would jot down some initial observations & impressions (please note, I wrote these down as I observed or thought of them, so no particular order of importance is implied): [LIST=1]
as with my Ender 5, the printer came very well packed; a fairly large, square box.
it seems pretty well made. However, I did note that the gantry cross-member is made of plastic rather than aluminum extrusion.
there are numbered dots on the ribbon cables. The numbers must face each other. IOW, when you look at the cables for #5, you can see both 5's at the same time.
the printer includes to brass bristle brush pockets that clean off the nozzles. They are #9 & #10, not #6 and #10.
there are 2 sets of wires running from the top to the bottom of the gantry that connect the 2 filament sensors. They're really a bit on the short side. 2 to 4 cm more wire would make them much easier to connect.
like most Creality printers, the printbed surface is removeable (it's magnetized).
on the printer I received, the spool holder spools are different: 1 is flanged at both ends & the other only at 1 end.
the booklet shows the Z Axis Limit Switch as being on the right-hand side of the printer. Mine is on the left.
the way the hotends are designed, the heat break cooling fan cannot blow air over the heater block. I noticed that it feels quite a bit hotter than my Ender 5, so I may need to use lower temps when printing.
some of the pre-installed bolts on the base were a little loose, so I tightened them. It's a good practice to always check the fasteners on any new piece of equipment anyway.
the USB connector on the printer is the original Type B (D shaped) one.
the SD card reader takes normal SD cards, not microvSD cards. I for one, appreciate this, as micro SD cards can be difficult to handle.
the supplied CIE AC cable is kind of short -- only 5 feet.
the main hotend fans are pretty noisy, certainly compared to my Ender 5.
[B]WARNING!!![/B] the Z Limit Switch & Filament Runout Sensor wires can be confused. On my printer there are 2 connectors on the left side: a white 1 (Z limit) & the other black (filament sensor). There are also 4 receptacle connectors: a white & a black on each side. The black ones can be hard to see as they're a bit hidden inside the metal blocks. The connectors are color co-ordinated: white into white, black into black. This means the white connector on the right side goes unused.
the printer has a color touch screen, but please note that the screen requires quite a firm press, and there is no change in brightness or color to indicate whether you pressed hard enough or not.
the manual does describe this, but I think it bears repeating. The Z Offset for Extruder 1 (left hand) is set using the Z Limit Switch. It's done by using the menu system to move the nozzle to the center of the bed (Point 1). I found it necessary to back out of the menu after each adjustment in order to get it to recognize the change in the adjustment screw. I also found it easier to get at the adjustment screw by using the ball-ended Allan key from my Ender 5.
Once the Z Offset for Extruder 1 is set, then the corners are levelled using the typical adjustment wheels. Points 2 through 5 of the menu system correspond to the 4 corners of the bed.
The Z Offset for Extruder 2 (right hand) is done through the T-offset of the menu system. This menu only works for Extruder 2. Please note: I found I could not set the Z Offset to values like 0.15. It would round up to 0.2. 0.05 would round up to 1.0. I did not see any point to adjusting the corners for Extruder 2. Any changes made would screw up Extruder 1.
the metal actuator of my Z Limit Switch wasn't directly under the adjustment screw, so I bent it slightly to the right.
there is a PDF copy of the manual on the supplied SD card, which can make it much easier see details in the images.
the printer does accept g-code files, including ones produced by Cura. In fact it comes with Cura 4.4.
the printer I received is v2.2.0. The firmware is something called Robin_Pro35. The board is an MKS Robin Pro.
on the hotends, there are 2 silver 'buttons'. The top, larger button is used to open the extruder to permit feeding of filament. The bottom, smaller button is used to release the nozzle assembly. It's worth noting that this printer has its own, unique nozzle system. I think it might prove very useful in that it should be possible to dedicate nozzles to specific types of filament: i.e. this nozzle is for PLA, this 1 is for PETG, a 3rd 1 is for TPU, and so on. This should really help with avoiding clogs.
my printer came with 2 pre-installed nozzles (I think they're 0.4mm), 4 more 0.4mm nozzles in a bag, plus 2 0.6mm nozzles in another bag, & 2 0.8mm nozzles in yet another bag. Not sure what I'll use them for, but I now have them.
the paper version of the manual says there is a control knob on the front edge, below the display screen, but my printer doesn't have 1. The digital version on the SD card doesn't show it.
there is a video on the SC card that shows how to assemble the printer. However, people who really dislike discrepancies between what manuals say & what they actually have are likely to be frustrated. There are a number of relatively small, but real differences between the 2. I put it down to the company's ongoing development of the printer.
when using the T-offset value under Settings, be very aware that Z2 Offset works the opposite of what I think many people would assume. That is, higher values actually move the Extruder 2 nozzle [B]closer[/B] to the bed, not further away. To move the nozzle up from the bed during printing, lower the listed value. To make it closer, increase the value listed.
I am going to do a video about ImageMaker this week and next week I will be covering the Flashforge Creator Pro 2. After that, I will cover both dissolvable filaments and using PETG supports with PLA filaments to make it easier to remove supports. I need to do a lot of experiments with different support types and interface layers to make sure I get it correct. One of the challenges of some of my videos is it just takes hours to print my test prints.
So I have been trying to add a Bl Touch to my artist d pro. I am running into firmware issues which I’m still trying to figure out. I can set z-offset For E0 through a terminal interface with M851 command. But it seems there is no way to set the same z-offset for the second extruder in marlin. So when you try to print the dual color test print they send with the printer the primary nozzle prints fine, but the secondary nozzle will print at whatever height is before taking into account the offset. Basically its printing in the air. I’ve tried many configurations in Marlin. There seems to be no way to set the z offset on the second extruder. If anyone has any ideas at all I would greatly appreciate some help. Also trying to figure out how to flash a different UI to the display but with no ports on the display in the artist d pro I’m not sure how to do it. I’ve tried emailing JGMaker 3 times already but they don’t seem to want to respond. Anyways, if anyone has any ideas…HELP!! Might just have to go back to manual leveling. Not sure I want to get into changing the board. I’m not even sure if that would help. Unless there is a way to adjust z-offset on second nozzle…ABL does no good…sigh…but I’ll keep trying to figure it out.
Yeah…I’ve been looking into klipper. Not really sure why marlin doesn’t have a parameter for setting z-offsets on the secondary extruder. Which is probably why the artist d is has the mechanical switch for the z-stop and why it didn’t come with ABL in the first place.