Trouble Shooting Help Please

[Sirvini]

Last Night I was finally able to get a decent copy of the 3d benchy to print, after struggling with it for over a week. It wasn't perfect but i thought i would move on to my next print anyways.

So I loaded up that print and even though all the setting are the exact same I can't get bed adhesion once again. I'm using ABL and even the manual bed leveling is pretty close to spot on.

Can anyone point me in the direction i need to go to get this sorted out? I'm using PLA @219^o and bed temp is 55^o on an Ender 3 v2. I'm running the newest 5x5 HS firmware from https://smith3d.com/ender-3-v2-bltou...y-smith3d-com/. I running cura slicer.

Any advice would be great.

[Larry]

Could be several things a pic would be great but if experience is any indication it could will be your glass bed (i'm assuming your still using the stock bed) the creality bed is crappy to say the least or more likely your BL touch (assuming based on the firmware its a bl touch). You could try painters tape or glue stick or magigoo but the problem will come back most likely. best fixes is to get a PEI coated sheet and replace the bl touch with a better ABL device like the EZABL.

Could also try lowering your hotend temp to around 195, 200 C

[Sirvini]

Could be several things a pic would be great but if experience is any indication it could will be your glass bed (i'm assuming your still using the stock bed) the creality bed is crappy to say the least or more likely your BL touch (assuming based on the firmware its a bl touch). You could try painters tape or glue stick or magigoo but the problem will come back most likely. best fixes is to get a PEI coated sheet and replace the bl touch with a better ABL device like the EZABL.

Could also try lowering your hotend temp to around 195, 200 C

I'm using this bed, just installed this last weekend? I am using a bltouch.

Can you link me a PEi coated Sheet?

I will try lowering the hotend temp down, but previously i wasn't getting good adhesion at all when it was lower.

[Ender5r]

how fast are you printing the initial layer?

[Larry]

I'm using this bed, just installed this last weekend? I am using a bltouch.

Can you link me a PEi coated Sheet?

I will try lowering the hotend temp down, but previously i wasn't getting good adhesion at all when it was lower.

Here you go not cheap but won't crack on you like the cheaper ones do in 3 months https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/e...-print-system/

[Sirvini]

Here is a picture of what the first layer looks like. before it messes up. The first layer is printed at 20mm/sec.

[Ender5r]

Try the bed @ 60C & the initial layer @ 15mm/sec. If that doesn't work, drop to 10mm/sec.

[Sirvini]

Try the bed @ 60C & the initial layer @ 15mm/sec. If that doesn't work, drop to 10mm/sec.

I got it to stick well when i finally slowed it down to 10mm/sec, however I think that my z-offset was incorrect and i ended up with too much "smush" on the first layer.
My guess is that means means it is time to use an adhesive to help hold the first layer in place.

Any other suggestions?

[Geit]

The temperature of your bed is NOT the temperature you set inside the slicer. Depending on the insulation the real bed surface temperature can be 10°C lower. Just remember that the sensor usually is below the bed, while more layers of metal are between the heating element and the print surface. I usually use 65°C, which works fine with a glass print surface.

Also keep in mind that temperature needs time to spread. So pre heat the printer for around 10 minutes before start printing. Also only calibrate the printer in hot state. This combination will result in constant bed adhesion.

The print speed does not matter, when it comes to bed adhesion. PEI hates finger print residue. You can ether use alcohol to clean it or use paper glue. Some say spitting on it would improve bed adhesion.

[Sirvini]

Thank you for the advice.
tonight I will:

1. give the bed a wipe down with some alcohol
2. Preheat the bed for at least 10 minutes and bump it up to 65^oC,
3. Run the Bed leveling
4. Adjust my Z-offset a bit

Hopefully 1 and 2 allow for 4 to happen and i wont have to have the nozzle down so low for adhesion.

[Ender5r]

You could try this: https://forum.drvax.com/forum/3d-pri...=9220#post9220

[Alan]

You could try this: https://forum.drvax.com/forum/3d-pri...=9220#post9220

This. If the plastic is not sticking, you are probably too far. I like DRVAX's suggestion to look at the wipe lines and skirt lines as they go down to see if they are sticking and not too squished. The test squares help provide better visual feedback to fine tune the z-offset (and to see if the bed is warped).

For diagnosing printer problems such as this and others, I highly recommend Sean Aranda's (Youtube's 3D Print General) book: 3D Printing Failures: 2020 Edition: How to Diagnose and Repair ALL Desktop 3D Printing Issues. (I own the book and have no connection to the author.)

Cheers

[Morgan]

Can I get a more useful cura profile for my Anet ET5X? Preferably the best starting Gcodes.

[Alan]

Can I get a more useful cura profile for my Anet ET5X? Preferably the best starting Gcodes.

Cura 4.6.1 has a profile for an ANET ET5X. It seems Cura has dropped profiles for many 3rd party printers with 4.8 and 4.9! /sigh

Cheers

[LoneTech]

You can also increase "smush" by raising "Initial Layer Line Width" in Cura (or similar in any other slicer). This makes the slicer squish some plastic between your nozzle and bed.

I've been using the same type of bed with decent success as low as 40° C, after wiping it with a microfiber cloth and some isopropyl alcohol. It absolutely must be heated, so giving it some time to stabilize is a good idea, and check that you don't have the printer or slicer set to some "power saver" mode that turns the bed heat off mid print.

Getting that first layer to stick is critical, and that means tramming the bed, compensating for bed unevenness, cleaning the surface, slowing the print, making it squish, etc. The BLtouch makes a lot of these much easier, but must have correct offsets (Creality ships a lot of printers with the wrong XY offsets, requiring a firmware fix such as from Kersey Fabrications).

Teaching Tech has some very good guides in order. By your picture, I would guess the main culprit might be minuscule amounts of skin oils on the bed surface.