The Dr Vax Bed Level File

[MariaMakesItOnAMac]

Hello All,

I use the 150M_3d_Printer_Bed_Leveling_Test_Print file as a way to test my bed after making hardware mods or changing filament.
I don't recall where it came from. I tried to search this forum for the name of the file and came up empty.
I am guessing I got it as a linked download from one of the Dr. Vax videos.
I have questions about having to slice the file. vs. it being shared as a gcode.
I don't know how many layers are supposed to print. My knowledge of slicing things is, well, thin. (catch what I did there?)
I still use another file as well from CHEP then move to the Dr. Vax to look at how a square and the letters look after I get the line adhesion with the CHEP file.
The CHEP file is a gcode file. I have it loaded on the SD card and always at the ready.
Should the Dr Vax file be shared that way as well. In GCode not as STL? So I have specific layers and I can't mess with the slicing?
I can see the positive and negatives for both.

So.. is there a place in the forum where we can share files? or Dr. Vax can post his files? (or do we go to thingiverse)
and should a bed test be shared in gcode not STL?

Thanks for making your way through all of that.

m

[Ender5r]

I saw what you did there. You should be a cheese mistress.

As for the number of layers, if you're using Cura, you can see the total # of layers on the Preview page, on the right hand side; the vertical bar that can be slid up & down to view how each layer will print.

As to sharing files, you can always use the Upload Attachments button to upload a file to this forum. The advantage of STL files is they can be sliced to be usable on any printer. Gcode files are often said to be specific to a particular printer, although I suspect they can be used on any printer that has the same bed size and height capacity. I could be totally wrong about that, since I only have 1 printer and can't test that hypothesis.

[Country_Bubba]

I agree with the above as different printers unless of same print volume (especially X and Y) will require different slicing in order to properly located it on the build plate. Different filaments can also require different temps for both the hot end and bed in order to have a successful print. Even different rolls of the same type and brand of filament 'may' need adjustment to insure success.
IMO, sharing G-code files can and eventually be a source of disaster.

Dr. Vax and others on YouTube are excellent sources of information "to learn together" and increase your bank of information on how to properly process the information from an idea through to the finished model whatever that may be. Don't be afraid to make a mistake. After all, we learn nothing from our successes, but if we are willing, can learn from failures.

Just my thoughts on the subject.

Country

[irvshapiro]

I think we may be talking about two different files. Here is a Thingiverse link to the STL file for a 150m square test print. Load this into your slicer and slicer with the defaults or with .20 layer heights and 15% or 20% fill:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4128569

Here is a link to a video about how to add assisted bed leveling to any printer. Basically this is a gcode file that moves the print head from corner to corner. It does not print anything so it is generic and will work with any Marlin printer.

After using the procedure in the above video, you can use the Thingiverse file to test your printer.

[Geit]

150m? Sounds like a very large printer

I guess you ment 150mm square?

[Ender5r]

Nah, it's one of those new models they use to print houses

[roon4660]

Maybe I could use my ender to print large lego blocks to make a house. How much would that cost? Probably not a good idea.

[Grampabill]

I always get confused as to precisely where and when to post a question so I hope not to offend anyones delicate sensibilities !
I have attached a bed level test and as you will see it is very thin on the top and down the left side while the other corner is fine. The auto bed level test on my Monoprice MP10 seems to be OK but it obviously isn't. Just how can I do the manual paper thickness test on this machine? Does anyone know?
Basic elementary question:- do I raise or lower the bed to sort out this obvious fault?

[Grampabill]

As an afterthought to the above -- how do I get the very thin firmly stuck PLA off the build plate? Acetone doesn't touch it !!

[Ender5r]

Getting the PLA off the bed depends on what the bed is made of. If it's glass it can be pretty easily removed using a razor blade. If it's something softer, you might try heating the bed up to 80C and then use paper towel to remove the PLA.

[Grampabill]

The MP10 has a flexible steel magnetic plate with what appears to be a paper top surface. I have already tried heating the bed up to 85C and rubbing with a paper towel and a bit of old towel rag. No joy.

[Ender5r]

If it's thin enough it shouldn't matter.

[Geit]

I would simply leave it on. It likely causes better adhesion for future prints, but will likely make the bottom frame look a little non-uniform.

So if you want to print decorative parts I would try IPA to clean the surface.

I only own printers with a glass bed.

[Grampabill]

It's certainly very thin but you can still feel it under your fingers and has a slightly raised edge but not enough to get a scalpel blade under it so the nozzle could trip over it on the way past.

[Alan]

The MP10 has a flexible steel magnetic plate with what appears to be a paper top surface. I have already tried heating the bed up to 85C and rubbing with a paper towel and a bit of old towel rag. No joy.

Try leaving some rubbing alcohol on it and then try rubbing it off or prying it with your finger nail. Might help loosen it, but I doubt it. As others have said, on the MP10 mini bed, I just print over it. Consider it an initiation rite into 3D printing!

Cheers