Et4 Firmware Upgrade - Step by Step?

[kellyllek]

Hi Dr.Vax and viewers.

I bought an Anet Et4 about 3 months ago, but I only just got it set up as I wanted to learn Fusion 3D first. I was successful in my first print of the stock dog on the SD card (See Avatar), but only after fixing a problem with the flow of PLA and the placement of the tube.

However, I had no luck with my own print as yet! In fact my tube just backed it's way out of the printer head and the retaining washer in the connector was damaged. So I've just ordered all new tubes and connectors...

First though, maybe I should update the printer to the newest firmware? I heard some have bricked their machines. So, if you can point to a resource on exactly how to do it that'd be great!

Tks.

[irvshapiro]

I have updated to the new firmware without difficulty. HOWEVER it is very important to NOT USE the sd card that came with the machine. Purchase a new brand name SD card and then format it to FAT32. The smaller the card the better. This is critical to maximizing your success. My impression of the new firmware is that it is nice that they fixed a bug where you have to turn the printer on and off when you insert an SD card but the auto bed leveling where you put the sensor on the nozzle still does not work. At least not for me.

Overall I think the ET4 HW is excellent and it is well built. I am surprised to hear you have had trouble with the Bowden tube. The retaining clip is really optional and it should work without it. I might try cutting off with a very sharp blade about 1/2" of the tubing and reinserting it. If the coupler does not grab it, then the coupler is probably the problem and is damaged. If you take the plastic fan housing off you can unscrew the coupler and replace it. They are a standard size and you can buy them on Amazon.

[kellyllek]

Thanks Dr. Vax. I will follow those instructions. But alas I've had nothing but problems! The tube forced itself right out while trying to push the filament through. I think there must be a problem somewhere.

So I got some replacement connectors but they are both not the same! I was told to make sure the tube went all the way into the printer head right down to the needle thread . But the replacement connectors I got don't allow the tube through. They allow the filament through, but not the tube.

So I can't imagine there is yet another kind of connector! I feel that the printer should be able to work without the tube going all the way through? I just can't imagine there'd be such a huge fundamental design difference so figure that it should work either way. But I really don't know?

So I tired printing with the new connector, with it just letting the filament through, but it still does not work. It can't extrude fast enough, and jams up with the little motor knocking and slipping all the time.

So maybe the temperature sensor is wrong? Or something else?

I just tried to unload the filament and it is stuck!

[irvshapiro]

**** I have not taken my ET4 apart yet, but I know from my Creality printers that the couplers are different on the extruder and hot end side. You need to match them up properly with the Bowden tube and the printer components. ****

I just took my ET4 apart and ANET uses the same size couple on both the extruder and the hot end. Couplers come in two types. In one type the Bowden tube terminates in the coupler. In the other type the Bowden tube passes through the couple so it can snug up directly to the nozzle. This is the type you need to use on the ANET ET4.

The technical name for this type of coupler is PC4-M6 Push in Straight Fitting.

I did not realize the ANET used this type until I pulled out the couplers and looked at them. This style is available on Amazon. Here is a link base on looking at the site:

https://amzn.to/3ef8ca3

*** The above link is an Amazon affiliate link that helps support the channel at no cost to you. If this does not work for you just Google "PC4-M6 Push in Straight Fitting" to find these couplers.

[irvshapiro]

One of the nice things about the ET4 is since the extruder moves up and down with the Z-axis the Bowden tube is very short. If you have the Bowden tube installed properly and the extruder is skipping then it is likely your temperature is too low for the filament you are using. Another possibility is that your hot end is jammed up with filament. I would try the following:

1. Remove the Bowden tube from the hot end side (first, take your filament out)
2. Using the front panel on the printer set the temperature to 10 degrees hotter than the temperature you normally print at
3. Cut a piece of filament that is about 200mm long.
4. Try to manually push the filament through the hot end. This should clear any jams and demonstrate that the filament can flow at this temperature.
5. Reduce the temperature to the temperature you use when printing.
6. Try it again to see if you have selected a valid temperature.

One of the very early videos I did was on using this technique with a Monoprice Select Mini.

https://youtu.be/tavFPJV0JnM

[kellyllek]

Thanks Dr. Vax. I did everything above but I noticed that when I pushed directly through a new needle, it was still very hard. Plus I went up to 225C on a 210C material, and still had some trouble pushing it through It did go, but was a strain. So maybe something is wrong with the heating part? (I'm very new to printing unsure of all the part terms.) But yes, the connector I got it wrong then.

I fear though that even when I get the right connectors there may still be problem as it originally did one stock print correctly from the SD card, and then failed every time since. But I'll get the corrector and see how it goes.

Meanwhile I'm in the UK so if you can setup and send a UK amazon affiliate link? It seems all the black ones here are M10 an all the blue ones are M6 but the hole only allows the filament to push through.

Meanwhile the ones I have are like what you linked to at US Amazon, M6, with ability to push the tube all the way through, and black in colour! Go figure? !

I just came up with the idea of switchign the ones I have on the machine, so putting the replacement on the cool side and borrowing the original cool side one for the hot side, (which I assume i the same as the broken one and allow the tube to push through). I'll try tomorrow!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=pc4-m6+...dc&ref=a9_sc_1


Actually I think I found though though appears to be the only one!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/MYAMIA-Pneu...365214&sr=8-31

[irvshapiro]

This looks right.