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Micro Swiss and All Metal Hot End Profile for Ender 5

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  • Micro Swiss and All Metal Hot End Profile for Ender 5

    I just completed and posted a new video on the DrVax youtube channel discussing how I optimized a Cura profile to minimize stringing for my highly modified Ender 5. You can find the video here:

    In addition I have uploaded here the Cura 4.6 profile I created for this video. Since this forum limits the types of files supported in uploads, I changed the file extension to zip. You will need to change the extension back to .curaprofile before importing it into Cura.

    Finally I think you may want to change the flow rate back to 100 from 95 and slow the prints down to 70 from 70 as my most recent prints have been slightly under extruded. Let me know how this works out if you try the profile.


    DrVax Ender 5 PLA All Metal Cura

  • #2
    Thank you your profile Ender 5 in Cura.
    I use Ender 3 Pro, change main board SKR mini E3 v1.2, and setup Direct Drive.
    Can you tuning Profile for PrusaSlicer 2.2
    I want remove stringing for PrusaSlicer. I very like your channel youtube
    Last edited by lptrung; 05-22-2020, 04:27 AM.


    • irvshapiro
      irvshapiro commented
      Editing a comment
      The idea behind my videos is to teach skills. You should just try using the information in my video to create your own Prusa profile. It will be fun, you will learn a lot and you cannot break your printer with a profile.

  • #3
    hi there Dr. Vax
    i have an ender 5 with fullmetal hot end, and a skr 1,4 turbo card, i would likr to try your profile, but i cant figure out the path in cura where to put your files.
    i have a great problem with strinning and nozzel clogging when i print with 3D premium silky collors, that is why i would like to try out your new profile, but the path for ura, i have no clue, can you try to explaine a bit better on what to do with the files thank you



    • #4
      To load the Cura profile you must be using a current version of Cura. The profile was created for Cura 4.6.1 and will probably not load on versions before 4.3 or maybe 4.4 or latter.

      Go into machine settings in Cura, select profiles, and do an import.

      Click image for larger version

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      • Concherover
        Concherover commented
        Editing a comment
        I get an error when I try this. Profile C:/Users/adamj/3D Objects/drVax profile/DrVax Ender 5 PLA All Metal/creality_base_extruder_0_drvax_ender5_pla_allmetal has an unknown file type or is corrupted.

      • shaula
        shaula commented
        Editing a comment
        joining @Concherover
        had the same issue on Cura 4.7
        i opened the profile in notepad and did the changes manual

      • XDex34
        XDex34 commented
        Editing a comment
        I don't understand how to use your profile. Same issue, not recognized, don't understand what using Notepad does. Don't know how or what to convert the file to. Please help. Also, you talk in the video about changing different values, but not how you got to where it is that you changed them. I'd appreciate if you could be a bit more thorough for those of us catching on in later videos. Losing my mind with the stringing switching from an Ultimaker Mini to the Ender 5 Pro. Thanks a bunch.

    • #5
      Super i figured it out, as soon the printer is done, i will try it out and give you a reviev on how it went
      thanks alot


      • #6
        I am going to continue testing, based on input from the community. Here is a print using my profile but with retraction increased to 3.5, speed reduced to 70, flow at 100, Travel Acceleration set to 2,000, and outer walls before inner walls. It is clearly not as good. I am going to rerun with all the same settings except for the outer walls before inner walls off to see if this has any impact.

        Click image for larger version

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        • #7
          Monoprice Ultimate 2 Print Sample. This is a close up of the top of the Kickstarter Calibration model that I used to tune the Micro Swiss All Metal hot end in my modified Ender 5. This is the best print I have produced from this model. I believe it is a combination of the direct drive extruder and an excellent hot end. The Monoprice Cadet which is a very low-end printer also does a relatively good job and it is made by the same Chinese manufacturer for Monoprice as the Ultimate 2. Since the Cadet does is a Bowden tube setup it must be the hot end. Both of these printers have traditional hot ends with PFTE tubing running into the hot end.

          I have some model prints on my Ender 5 before I switched the hot end and while they are better than the current configuration, prior to tuning the profile, they were not as good as the Weedo rebranded Monoprice printers.

          Click image for larger version

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          • #8
            That looks good, alot better than mine, i have a huge problem with clogging of nozzel right now, i dont understand it, now im at 260 degreeds, as soon i print with black it prints fine, but with those silky collors the nozzel block's, but i will keep on fighting with the machine


            • #9
              DrVax Profile with 3.5, speed reduced to 70, flow at 100, Travel Acceleration set to 2,000, and outer wall before inner wall OFF. This is the only change from the prior print and it makes a difference. Prints are noticeably cleaner with outwall before inner wall OFF.

              Click image for larger version

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              • #10
                i dont understand this, every time i use retraction, my nozzel clogs up, and extruder just skip steps, if i dont use retraction it prints fine but with alot of strinning, there is spider web all over the place, it seems like the hot end is way too cold in the throat


                • irvshapiro
                  irvshapiro commented
                  Editing a comment
                  What printer and slicer are you using? What type of filament? What temperature are you printing at?

              • #11
                im using 3 de premium pla fila ment, and im printing between 190 to 230 degreeds and im using cura slicer 4,6,1
                and it all is on a Ender 5 with an SKR 1,4 board on and TCM 2208 drivers
                Last edited by Rico; 05-25-2020, 11:04 AM.


                • irvshapiro
                  irvshapiro commented
                  Editing a comment
                  If I had to guess the Bowden tube is not pressed into the hot end far enough. It is hard to do but the tube needs to go all the way up to the top of the nozzle. If there is any gap it will cause jams. This is a very common problem with Creality Ender's hot ends.

                  I will post a picture and some additional nodes in a new topic. Here is a link to the topic:

                  The hot end on the Creality line of Ender printers is designed so the Bowden tube is pressed all the way into the hot end up to the nozzle. If there is a gap between the tube and the nozzle you are likely to get jams anytime you print with retraction. A trick to making sure the tube is snugged right up to the nozzle is to

              • #12
                it is a all metal hotend, aint the bowden supose to go just a bit down in that ??


                • irvshapiro
                  irvshapiro commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Yes. Have you upgraded the hot end? The Ender does not come with an all-metal hot end. If it is an all-metal hot end it is possible you did not put it together properly. These types of clogs are generally caused by clogs where there is a gap between components. In all-metal hot ends sometimes this is between the heat break and the heater block.

              • #13
                there is some sticky substance with it, i wase wondering what that is for, to morrow i will try to take it all apart and clean it firmly and use some of that sticky stuf
                sa i can read out of your message i can understand that the retraction works with vacum,, is that right ??


                • #14
                  Hey Irv, Today I installed the all metal hotend on an ender 3 and I set retraction to a distance of 5mm with a speed of 30. I had a beautiful result when the stringing test was completed.. when I went on to perform my next test print I couldn't ven get filament to budge through the nozzle and the entire hot end was jammed. I just looked at your profile for the 5 and I was wondering if the retraction settings would work well on my ender 3. Were my initial retraction settings to far? Get back to me when you can, thank you!


                  • #15
                    See Irv's reply 11.1 above. At least, that's my guess.