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  • Help for a Newbie - Print issues

    This isn't the first time this has happened on some horizontal surfaces. Could this be due to a lack of supports? The rest of the print is fine, just lower horizontal surfaces.

  • #2
    Originally posted by Eric_N View Post
    This isn't the first time this has happened on some horizontal surfaces. Could this be due to a lack of supports? The rest of the print is fine, just lower horizontal surfaces.
    Sure you need support. The printer can bridge, but this requires a target area to bridge to. So in your case a second pillar on the right side.

    Printing a pirate plank is not possible without support as there is nothing at the end. Same as a Clothesline cannot be hung using only one tree, even when using two hooks.

    If I guess your print orientation right, the loose lines are sagging down when printing. Since they cool in the process they stick in mid air. And your printer continues to put more plastic down layer by layer. The loose ends at some point act as support and the upper sections recover.

    This is a phenomena you will often see with long support pillars. They break at some point, but somehow the print may recover as the filament ment to build up the piles randomly and uncontrolled, rebuilds the support structure ending up with a successful print.

    The only difference is that usually the uncontrolled mid air released plastic connects with random non support, which need to be cleaned in post process.

    You just created this situation by hand and in your case the real part is doing the recovery job as there is no real support.
    Last edited by Geit; 05-09-2022, 03:29 PM.

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    • #3
      Thanks Geit, I'll give it a shot.

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      • #4
        Eric_N, I'm wondering if you couldn't just rotate the model so 90 degrees so the 2 surfaces you were trying to print horizontally are vertical. That can be done easily in the slicer.

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        • #5
          I actually did that and will try a reprint in the morning.

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          • #6
            Success! Changed the orientation, added supports and it turned out nice. Thanks for the suggestions.

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            • #7
              Every manufacturing process has its requirements and limitations. In 3D printing, orientation is a major factor. Very often, if oriented just right, it's possible to avoid supports altogether. Every printer is unique, and its capabilities are its own. Over time you will learn your printer's capabilities.

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              • #8
                I will add that if you got the model off thingiverse, they often show orientation different from what you need to print proper.
                I did see a video a while back where the orientation, for strength purposes has to be where supports are necessary. I am assuming that flow of filament makes a model stronger in a particular direction, which is disable. I hope I said that correctly.

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                • #9
                  Eric_N I forgot to mention something really important regarding orientation: filament grain.

                  This may sound strange, but 3D filament printing has some characteristics in common with wood. The main one is that prints have grain. What I mean is, the prints are much stronger in one direction than they are 90 degrees to that direction.

                  Think of a 2x4 piece of lumber. Pretty much everyone knows that 2x4's are cut so that the grain of the wood runs along the length of the 2x4. That's because the wood is much stronger in that orientation; the 2x4 is much harder to snap in half. If 2x4's were cut so that the grain ran across the width of the 2x4 they would be very easy to snap.

                  This is also true of 3D prints. In your case, it means that the orientation you printed it in the 2nd time (the successful print) is actually the weakest. That may or may not matter, depending on the print's intended purpose.

                  If that model needs to take a fair amount of stress, you might need to orient it back the way it originally was and use supports. This is one of the things I was referring to when I said every process has its requirements and limitations.

                  As an example, here is a bracket I designed and printed: https://forum.makewithtech.com/forum...1912#post11912. Two of them together hold up an umbrella on our deck. Grain orientation is very important for the bracket. If you look closely, you can see that the filament grain is horizontal, the strongest direction. If I tried to clamp it to the balluster with the grain running vertically it would snap like a twig.

                  I have 2 sets of them holding up 2 umbrellas and I'm actually currently printing a 3rd set for another umbrella.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for the additional information. I watched a video that went into orientation of the part relative to strength. The successfully printed part won't have any great amount of stress on it, so it should be fine. I've printed some other small parts with different orientations, (and infills) just to see how everything works. There's lots of settings to wrap my head around, so I don't change too many at once. I'll check out your bracket.

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                    • #11
                      That's great Eric_N. When it comes to 3D printing, YouTube is definitely your friend. I'm glad the print you made will be usable. And, you're right, there is a ton to learn about 3D printing.

                      For instance, I used Prusaslicer about a year and a half ago, but found its interface confusing, so I switched to Cura. Now, I'm again looking at Prusaslicer. For 1 thing, its interace has been improved. For another, I know a lot more about 3D printing in general. I printed 1 umbrella bracket that was sliced in Cura -- I had to clean it up quite a bit after printing. I sliced it in Prusaslicer and did a test print of only the latch. It came out immaculate. I'm now printing the whole bracket after slicing it in Prusaslicer. So far it looks really good.

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                      • #12
                        I'm also looking at SuperSlicer which shares some lineage with PrusaSlicer. It's nice to have options.

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                        • #13
                          Indeed it is nice to have options. I suspect I'm going to be sticking with Prusaslicer for a while, because I have a Prusa MK3S+ on order. Prusaslicer is highly tuned to Prusa printers. The most common phrase I hear about the MK3S+ is, "It just works". That is exactly what I want in a 3D printer. I am far more interested in designing and printing models than I am in tinkering with printers and slicers. The MK3S+ is higher priced than many others, but it appears to be worth it.

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                          • roon4660
                            roon4660 commented
                            Editing a comment
                            Are you planning on doing a lot of printing? That is your third printer if I'm not mistaken.

                        • #14
                          I really like Prusaslicer I have been using it since it was Slic3r PE edition. I like the way it's layed out with tabs for Printing, Filament, Printer settings. There are also overrides, fore instance the retraction settings are in the Printer tab, but I use some filaments that need less or more retraction I use and override in the Filament tab. I have tried other slicers from time to time but always end up returning to Prusaslicer. I also have Ideamaker installed that I use from time to time, it has some features that PS doesn't have. I have tried Superslicer but think it has to many options and it just looks unrefined to me. I used it when I want to test a profile that I downloaded so as not to mess with PS. I know people that swear by Cura but it never really lit my fire.

                          It is great that we have all these nice choices.

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