Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Advice: PETG printing, after a certain height in the print, it moves on the plate

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Advice: PETG printing, after a certain height in the print, it moves on the plate

    Hi,
    I am looking for some guidance and/or things to try in regards to my current challenge. I am 4 months old in regards to the 3d printing adventure.

    I have the following:
    Ender5pro
    PETG
    235 - Hotend
    75 - Bed

    The bed is glass, well cleaned with a fresh application of magigoo

    I have done first layer testing, and apart from some stringing, I have good coverage and squish. So bed levelling is ok, I have run bed visualiser with a BL-Touch too. Extrusion is calibrated too

    The print is: length: 70mm, width: 40mm, height: 180mm. I am attempting to print it upright, due to edges and PETG, I would rather not use supports .
    I have printed with both a raft and a brim, after 40mm, the nozzle 'bumps' the print and it obviously then turns into spaghetti .







  • #2
    I am an atheist. I use hair spray on a glass plate with an Ender 3 pro heating nozzle at 240 C bed 50 C. Make sure the bed is level and it sticks better than PLA. I last put hair spray on the bed about a week ago and have been constantly printing long mechanical parts. I scrape the bed but never 'clean' it unless I put a very light spray of hair spray and heat the bed for awhile before I try to print anything. You stick it to a clean glass bed and you need TNT to get it off and risk damaging the glass.

    Comment


    • #3
      I use Magigoo on a glass bed. The biggest problem I have is layer height when I have a problem with my prints not sticking. I use .16 for layer height and first layer of .2. I would say that you are using a layer height greater. That is to say your tolerances are not that good. If your first layer is not correct then your PETG will not stick, or it will not turn loose. Tighten your first layer distance. Another problem might be your travel speed being too fast.

      Comment


      • Dominict
        Dominict commented
        Editing a comment
        Thank you, I will check the values and come back to you.

    • #4
      The nozzle should not be bumping the model. Something is off. The 1st thing I would check is the Z axis movement. Go into the printer's LCD menu and find out what the Z axis steps/mm is set to. I had an issue with my Ender 5 Pro when I 1st got it.

      Comment


      • Dominict
        Dominict commented
        Editing a comment
        Hi, thank you for the feedback. I will check the value and post back.

    • #5
      I would like to warn anyone that tries to use hairspray instead of whatever gloop you must let it sit over night and cure. I tried to speed up the process by heating the bed and then trying some prints. I couldn't get PETG or PLA to stick last night for the life of me. I turned it on this morning and PLA is sticking like shit to a blanket this morning. I wouldn't use Magic glop if you gave it to me free and it certainly isn't free.

      Comment


      • #6
        Dominict I would check and see if the left & right side of the X gantry (the one with the hotend) are the same height from the frame. But first you need to make sure the frame is square. Like was said your nozzle should not be hitting you part,

        Comment


        • #7
          Originally posted by roon4660 View Post
          I would like to warn anyone that tries to use hairspray instead of whatever gloop you must let it sit over night and cure. I tried to speed up the process by heating the bed and then trying some prints. I couldn't get PETG or PLA to stick last night for the life of me. I turned it on this morning and PLA is sticking like shit to a blanket this morning. I wouldn't use Magic glop if you gave it to me free and it certainly isn't free.
          I'm puzzled by your post. I can understand you not wanting to pay for bed adhesive, but why be so adamant that you wouldn't use it even it if was free? Magigoo and Dimafix are both good products, that do what the say they will do, and the cost per print is low. They also work almost immediately instead of overnight.

          Comment


          • #8
            roon4660 are you spraying on the hair spray like paint? It only takes a very light coat to make it work. I have used hair spray from time to time and I never had to let it cure overnight before printing. I'd mist a coat on the build plate in the bathroom, walk to the printer, install the build plate, heat the bed and start printing. I actually prefer using a glue stick in most cases it works better for me and is easier to use and not a messy. With the G10 I haven't been using anything and so far everything has stuck.

            Comment


            • #9
              Originally posted by Gramps View Post
              roon4660 are you spraying on the hair spray like paint?
              LOL, I hadn't thought of that. Also, does your wife know you're stealing her hair spray?

              Comment


              • roon4660
                roon4660 commented
                Editing a comment
                I was a teenager in the 60s and all the girls had plastic bouncy hairdos. I was never a fan of plastic hair myself.

            • #10
              In one of the many videos I have watched about 3D printers. Several have commented about using hair spray. I really considered using hair spray and if a can had been in the house I would have used it. Anyway, the bad press about hair spray was the fact that the airborne particulars could attach to the belts and the shafts from long term build up causing problems and eventually replacement. I choose to abandon using hair spray because of that. If you do not like Magigoo or the other made for 3D printers, then there is the blue tape, or the purple glue sticks which apply like lipstick. I used the purple glue stick for a long time even after I got Magigoo. I quit using the glue stick in favor of Magigoo. Less build up which required more frequent bed leveling and messier clean up. With Magigoo a little alcohol on a paper towel and you are done. And remember, it is made for 3D printer beds.

              Comment


              • #11
                Lowteck, you might want to consider using Dimafix. Irv Shapiro and I have both both switched to it over Magigoo. If you're in the states, you can get it a Matterhackers. It's even lower cost than Magigoo. Most important, it works like magic: sticks like glue at temperature, then completely releases at room temp.

                Comment


                • #12
                  Actually my problem was that I ran out of hair spray and just now realized that my amazon order is coming from China.

                  Comment


                  • #13
                    Hi all, thank you for all the advice and suggestions. I went back to basics on this one. I am still paying school fees and I am glad they are starting to pay off. I broke my hot-end apart from a few other amateur mistakes. I am now printing PETG with ease, magigoo being critical. All thoughts and views have been appreciated.

                    Comment


                    • #14
                      Magigoo is good, but I suspect you would find Dimafix even better.

                      Comment


                      • irvshapiro
                        irvshapiro commented
                        Editing a comment
                        I agree that Dimafix is even better than Magigoo. If you print is moving as the layers build I would consider using a raft. Depending on your slicer they are not too difficult to remove.

                    • #15
                      I had the same problem sometime ago. I posted a possible solution here. I understand you don't want supports but try this for minimal supports.
                      If you're using CURA as your slicer go to matkeplace and install the Custom Supports add-in.
                      Play around with it a little bit and then learn to create a super structure to about 2/3 of the way to the top of your print completely around and where the structure rests on the bed.
                      Worked for me and had minimal supports to cut off.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X