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Pneumatic Fitting Tubing Brake for 3D Printers

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  • #1

    Pneumatic Fitting Tubing Brake for 3D Printers

    I created a printable device to completely eliminate movement of the Teflon tube within the pneumatic fitting and also allow for free movement of the filament within the Teflon tubing.

    Pneumatic Fitting Tubing Brake for 3D Printers by JEBurroughs
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5209097
    1/22/2022 UPDATE: Added support for the PC4-M6 that is on some extruders. -------------------------------------------First Upload--------------------------------------------------------------------- Searched here, and around the web, and found nothing I cared for. so I made my own vision of a "Bowden Clamp" and called it the "Bowden Brake". First Installment is thePC4 M10 (Black Top and White Top) connector. -----------------------------------------INFO--------------------------------------------------------------------- This is a two piece construction containing a top and bottom that forms a cube surrounding the PC4 M10 connector. There is a collar on the extruder drive side of the cube that surrounds the back side of the PC4 M10 connector. The collar keeps the Bowden Brake static and removes any inline movement. The "Bowden Brake" cannot move since it is now a part of the PC4 M10 connector and will be secured with the tightening of the Bowden Brake/PC4 M10 assembly. On the output side, or rather the side where the Bowden tube will be inserted, mid way there is a slight extrusion or nipple on top and bottom. When the "Bowden Brake" is tightened, it will keep the PC4 M10's release button from moving in either direction as well as securing itself to the PC4 M10. This will stop any movement of the tube. Other designs are loose fitting to the PC4 M10 connector. This can still allow movement. I also found most design to be cumbersome or used wire ties. The nipples slightly pinch the Bowden tube creating a second layer of security to completely stop all moment on the Bowden tube. I cannot get the tube to move even pulling on it with players. I used 3mm hardware. Top and bottom have cutouts for the nuts and an indentation for the screw heads. either assemble and install or slightly loosen the PC4 M10, assemble the "Bowden Brake" around the fitting while in place and the printer. Turn until slight resistance and then just slightly seat. No need to over tighten the Extruder drive end of the cube. Same with tube end. Tighten until slight resistance and then an 1/8 turn will seat the screw. It takes quite a bit of pressure to actually pinch the tube enough to stop the filament from moving within the tube. I suggest you install the Brake and free hand a piece of filament trough the tube to get a since of the pressure. Like all things you will have to tweak to your specific needs. I would rather this Mix did not get a remix. I want to keep this one close it's kind of special. Thanks James B
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  • #2
    I have not noticed a problem with the tubing moving in the fitting. In your experience, is this a common issue?

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    • #3
      The fitting by nature is only designed to restrict movement in opposition to the air pressure. The forward drive and then retraction causes a sawing effect where the metal teeth grasp the Teflon tubing. A groove will wear and the tube starts to move more and more during retraction. This a know event and there are several other varieties of fixes for the phenomenon on Thingiverse. With that said. I feel this is a very good printable device to completely eliminate movement of the Teflon tube within the pneumatic fitting.

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      • #4
        I have not noticed it, but I haven't looking either. Mind you, I'm now using a Micro Swiss all-metal hotend + extruder. It uses a C ring to hold the tubing in place. I guess that would eliminate the issue.

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        • #5
          The Blue Ring always seems fine on the hotend for me, but on the extruder end gets all the torque. I have noticed how the extruder end of the tube gets grooved, sometimes even hard to get out. I noticed while doing a piece with heavy retraction, that the tube was moving in and out a little ways, not much, but enough I felt it was probably effecting the desired effect at the hotend. Keeping the filament cool before it hits the tip and a solid Bowden tube connection ensure that the desire retraction effect of the filament is obtained. Otherwise you have marshmallow effect with the filament and it basically gets dampened out with the movement. I have a stout cooling fan setup now and I noticed right away how much of that effect it lost just being cooler. So I guess you might say this is a silly piece to some, others might say that it assures them there is a solid connection, and that only the filament is moving and not the filament and tube.

          I never actually thought much of it until then. It was nothing other than an annoyance I assumed came with the territory. Then a week or so ago, I accidentally ran across one. It was the kind with 2 halves and a big hollow center nut to tighten them. I tired it, and I noticed a difference right away. It was kind of cumbersome and and while it indeed placed a wedge behind the push to release button and locked it, it could still allow for movement of the Bowden tube itself. I felt any movement could still grow and become noticeable. My device surrounds the fitting so it becomes one unit. That unit then attaches to the original location. Now the entire connection is fastened and static.
          Last edited by JEBurroughs; 01-26-2022, 04:10 PM.

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          • #6
            Thanks for the design! BondTech acknowledges that its dual-geared extruder does not play well with Capricorn tubing. The printed inserts I use can, after time, fall out. This looks like a more sturdy soltion. Going to print it out.

            Cheers!

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            • #7
              I use the CHEP method which he adopted from someone on the internet. I have only a short piece of Capricorn tubing jammed into my hot end between the nozzle and the the retraining bolt with the tubing coming through it and unlike CHEP I don't use a retaining washer to guide the tubing as they butt together. It works fine for me. Will soon try printing my roll of PETG and see how it does with that.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by roon4660 View Post
                I use the CHEP method which he adopted from someone on the internet. I have only a short piece of Capricorn tubing jammed into my hot end between the nozzle and the the retraining bolt with the tubing coming through it and unlike CHEP I don't use a retaining washer to guide the tubing as they butt together. It works fine for me. Will soon try printing my roll of PETG and see how it does with that.
                The hot end of the tubing is not addressed with my device, it's for the DRIVE end of the tubing. The hot end doesn't get that much torque on it. The drive end does, and that is where you see the grooving and movement.
                However I will say that with my device installed you won't have any issues with the hot end anymore if you did previously. My device removes any chances for movement of the tube.
                Last edited by JEBurroughs; 02-02-2022, 05:09 AM.

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