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  • #31
    This morning I discovered a feature of Klipper/FluiddPi that I'd seen but not tried yet. It's called SCREWS_TILT_CALIBRATE. Basically, it causes the printer to go to each corner of the bed, check the corner's height using the BL Touch and then, GET THIS, it reports the Z Offset at each corner and actually gives recommendations for how far to rotate each wheel clockwise or counter-clockwise.

    I ran the feature 3 times and got the corners very close to the same height. Then, I ran BED_MESH_CALIBRATE, which builds a map of the printbed that can be used to compensate for small bed differences during a print run.

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    • #32
      I have tried that feature also, but had some challenges. I have solid spacers on a couple of my Ender 5 and can not adjust the screws. I also had the experience that the rotation was in the wrong direction, so if you use that be careful. The concept is used on my Rat Rig which has three Z axis motors which have their own drivers and are run separately. The command is Z_TILT_ADJUST.
      I have three points identified that are above the Z motor points, The probe is used to measure the height above each point, after they have been measured calculations are made to adjust and the process is repeated until the specified tolerance is meet or bettered. This gets the bed plane level to the probe, then I still do a bed mesh to measure any high / low spots. I'm toying with trying this on my Ender 5 Plus using two points and adjusting the two Z Axis motors. I would have to get a new board with at least 5 drivers. It is in my when I get really board list.

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      • #33
        I think I got the rotation correct. I pictured the wheels as if looking at them from the top, which is the reverse of how most utilities seem to view them. The distances measured by the routine did seem to get the measurements closer.

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        • #34
          Good to hear, post an update when you are done. After using Marlin for a couple of years, and then switching to Klipper, I'm impressed with the ease of use and features. I have a filament change / filament out set of macros if you want to try them

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          • #35
            Please post any and all macros you have. Would love to look at them. I may hit you up for info on how to create them: tips and tricks if you will.

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            • #36
              Take a look here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4925705

              The attached file is actually my printer.cfg for my Ender 5 Plus
              Attached Files

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              • #37
                thx [email protected]. I hadn't even realized Klipper is missing M600. 'Course, I don't change colors much at all.

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                • #38
                  I use it often to change colors on layers, and it works for filament run out. One of the biggest challenges was to keep the bed on, but dial back the hot end temp. I have it tuned to my printers and the OmniaDrop direct drive - it has a manual filament feeder. I set the nozzle temp to the correct value from my Fluidd panel and when reached feed the filament in manually then hit resume from Fluidd

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                  • #39
                    I presume you're using purge towers?

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                    • #40
                      I don't use purge towers. Using the M600 command on a layer change starts a process that moves the nozzle to a specified position and backs the filament out of the nozzle. You then manually switch colors - and start printing with the new color. There are a number of steps in the process, but that is how it works. This is based on colors being on top of other colors, but you see the top layer in specific color - here are some examples
                      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4972568
                      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5036971

                      Let me know if you want more specifics on how it works
                      Attached Files

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                      • #41
                        You may recall the Mad Scientist At Work sign I did a while back. It was much the same. My 1st version of the sign, I printed to a certain layer, then paused, changed the filament, extruded until I got the new color, then resumed.

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                        • #42
                          Very similar process, just automated so you don't have to be present to do the pause. This also prevents any filament from depositing on the print. I think Cura has an easy way to insert M600. I still use Simplfiy3D, and just edit my gcode and search for layer xx and inset the M600

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                          • #43
                            Cura has a Filament Change plugin. OTOH, the Mad Scientist sign was pretty easy on the IDEX printer -- no M600 needed at all
                            Last edited by Ender5r; 12-01-2021, 04:24 PM.

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                            • #44
                              BTW, I've run into a sort of weird issue with fluiddpi: if I use the Tool window on the Home page to get the Z Offset just right, how do I get that incorporated, easily, into the configuration, so I don't have to redo it every time I have to reset fluidd or Klipper? SAVE_CONFIG does not seem to do it.

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                              • #45
                                I think I've got the Z Offset value adjusted in printer.cfg. It took some playing around. I must have printed forty 20mmX20mmX1-layer squares, changing the temperature and offset to get strong, even, shiny results.

                                During the times I was waiting for the squares to print, I did some closer inspection of the fluidd interface. In the Console window I noticed a number of "unknown command" entries, like M155 and M300. The M155 I think I can live without; I seem to be getting good temperature reporting anyway.
                                The M300 is another story. I sort of depend on it to signal me when a print is done and I'm upstairs. Besides, I miss not hearing Smoke On The Water when a print ends So, I looked online and found an M300 macro. I copied and pasted it into printer.cfg. Naturally, it generated an error: invalid pin name in mcu. A little lookiing online and I found another pin name to try. I got lucky: it worked. So now I have my Deep Purple ending music when a print is done.

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