Some quick background, see TL;DR for the details
I have three different 3D printers with those little dials that need to be turned a little to adjust the distance between the head and the build plate. Now some people just seem able to remember WHICH way to turn to achieve the adjustment we need but I'll hold my hand up and admit that I didn't remember until I came up with a little aide-memoire that's easier to remember than the unrepeatable BBROYGBVGW colour code widely used for resistors and some capacitors. (If you need to ask about that, you're lucky - I suggest you don't because it was racist when I heard it over 50 years back.)
If you're like me, you're going to kick yourself, if not, give yourself a good pat on the back and bask in your own genius.
Looking down at the build plate you might know that you tighten the springs by rotating the clockwise and loosen them by rotating anti-clockwise. Easy right?
Not so fast - people like me with a memory that resembles Swiss cheese (without the cheese). You have to make a quick adjustment because ... reasons... and suddenly you realise your mind's blank.
TL;DR.
Here's what you do - and unless the threads are reversed it should work without fail, looking from above turn the wheels
Anti-clockwise to move the bed Away from the head
Clockwise to move the bed Closer to the head.
All you have to remember is the A = Away and C = Closer
I've been using this to level the bed on my Ender 5 which is utter nightmare because the eye-line is effectively blocked by the cage and especially given that the plate is only supported at the rear of the cage, even feeler gauges can be quite challenging. I hope this helps someone else.
I have three different 3D printers with those little dials that need to be turned a little to adjust the distance between the head and the build plate. Now some people just seem able to remember WHICH way to turn to achieve the adjustment we need but I'll hold my hand up and admit that I didn't remember until I came up with a little aide-memoire that's easier to remember than the unrepeatable BBROYGBVGW colour code widely used for resistors and some capacitors. (If you need to ask about that, you're lucky - I suggest you don't because it was racist when I heard it over 50 years back.)
If you're like me, you're going to kick yourself, if not, give yourself a good pat on the back and bask in your own genius.

Looking down at the build plate you might know that you tighten the springs by rotating the clockwise and loosen them by rotating anti-clockwise. Easy right?
Not so fast - people like me with a memory that resembles Swiss cheese (without the cheese). You have to make a quick adjustment because ... reasons... and suddenly you realise your mind's blank.
TL;DR.
Here's what you do - and unless the threads are reversed it should work without fail, looking from above turn the wheels
Anti-clockwise to move the bed Away from the head
Clockwise to move the bed Closer to the head.
All you have to remember is the A = Away and C = Closer
I've been using this to level the bed on my Ender 5 which is utter nightmare because the eye-line is effectively blocked by the cage and especially given that the plate is only supported at the rear of the cage, even feeler gauges can be quite challenging. I hope this helps someone else.
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